The Young Man and the Sea
Recipes & Crispy Fish Tales from Esca
By David Pasternack and Ed Levine
Published Artisan 2007, New York, NY

By Rosemary Minati

Last month, after a hectic weekday, I ran into the supermarket in search of the perfect fish.  As usual, the choices were daunting.  I always seek the advice of the guy behind the counter and choose based on his recommendation.  That’s why I finally decided to go to the bookstore and learn how to make an educated decision — on my own. Yes, I want to know what fish is freshest, wild or farmed, but I don’t want my evening meal based on some guy’s preferences.

I discovered The Young Man & the Sea; Recipes and Crispy Fish Tales by Pasternack. My first reaction was surprise as I breezed through the pages. There is only a short lists of ingredients for each Italian-based recipe. I was not intimidated and realized most items are easily found in my local supermarket.  Page 13  offered “Dave’s Tuna Advice.” Pasternack not only describes what to look for, but lists six different tunas.  Who knew there were so many choices beyond fresh or canned albacore in traditional oil or water?   He includes recipes for tuna meatballs, tuna Bolognese, or Ventresca tuna salad, and more.

Pasternack offers advice on shrimp, tentacles, scallops, and how to fillet a whole fish.  The book contains more than 100 recipes and is guaranteed to make your mouth water.

Pictures of Pasternack beside a well-used fishing pole, his sturdy rubber boots, waiting at the back of a boat are fascinating. Some of his buddies are pictured as well, including “Tommy Crab,” who he describes as the “Ed Norton of the crustacean world.”  These tidbits make for interesting reading.

This fish tale was written after Ed Levine approached Pasternack in Esca, his New York City restaurant. He successfully he urged Pasternack to publish his recipes.

Fast forward a week after I finished the book. I planned to make fresh grilled tuna for dinner. Now I know how.

I confidently stepped up to the fish counter, smiled and said,  “Excuse me, but is that tuna  yellowfin or Bonita?”

Rosemary can be reached at Rosemary@globalfoodie.com.