By Ron Stern
Jay’s Bistro is a Fort Collins institution, one that has grown along with the community. It started inauspiciously as Café Columbine in 1980 and two decades later morphed into the bistro. Jay and Jackie Whitlen, a husband and wife team, created a perfect recipe of fine cuisine and local entertainment, a blend that now has a loyal following and insured the bistro’s long-term success.
Jay and Jackie became sweethearts in the 1960s, while in a New York high school. After visiting Fort Collins in 1972, Jay discovered what so many have; he liked the town so much, he never left. He became the chef at Nico’s Catacombs in the 1970’s. Ten years later he and Jackie opened Café Columbine on the corner of College Ave and Laurel Street.
Initially they only served breakfast and lunch, but, by 1988, had so many satisfied customers they opened for dinner. That decision brought more customers and the need for a bigger space. They found it across the street on South College Avenue. There they honed their culinary skills and increased their customer base.
After 10 years the Whitlen’s lost their lease and had to look for even bigger digs. In 2001 they bought 135 West Oak Street where continue to offer their distinctive combination of hospitality, music and, of course, fabulous food. “We made it into the style we like and expanded the music and menu,” Jay said proudly. Live jazz is offered four nights a week and their menu is described as “American eclectic.”
Jay, who has traveled extensively, is influenced by southwestern and Asian cultures and incorporates those tastes and flavors into his dishes. For example, the southwest crab cake appetizer is a favorite among the locals. Jay uses lump crab with a smoky tomato and corn salsa accompanied by a red pepper sauce. It is truly one of the best crab cakes — in or out of Fort Collins.
One of Jay and Jackie’s signature and most popular dishes is the filet mignon with a creamy gorgonzola port wine reduction. The Angus beef is tender, flavorful and when combined with the cheese, melts in your mouth.
“What sets us apart is that we have great flavors,” said Jackie, “We pride ourselves in punching up the sauces and making flavors pop.”
That is evident in other favorites, including the Ahi tuna with five-spice ginger and yakitori glaze. A Chilean sea bass with crusted pine nuts and fresh basil is also unforgettable. The wild game plate of wild boar and cranberry sausage, Colorado ostrich filet plated on raspberry port demi glace, and red deer medallion on blackberry pomegranate demi glace, is yet another popular and tempting meal.
In addition to the generous portions, Jay’s has an extensive wine selection and, since 1993, has won the prestigious Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. There are 35 wines that may be ordered by the glass and, according to Jay, the bistro was the first restaurant in Fort Collins to offer 16-ounce wine glasses. This is just one reason why Jay’s is perpetually busy. “We offer a great value in portion sizes as well as the amount of wine we serve,” said Jackie.
The atmosphere at Jay’s is warm and inviting with a soothing palate of earth tones, natural woods, black and white framed photos hung over the tables, wrought iron railings and colorful dried flower accents. Jackie has also incorporated her favorite artists in the bistro’s design, including Polish oil Art Deco painter, Tamara de Lempicka.
Contrary to what some may think, Jay’s is not just a special occasion restaurant, although they do get their share of celebrations. Rather, it is a bistro where you can just have appetizers, a Caesar salad and a glass of wine, all while enjoying live music and the decorative atmosphere.
The friendly and professional staff at Jay’s lives the philosophy of its owners—to treat every guest like they are coming into their own home. In fact many have told Jay that his bistro is the Cheers of Fort Collins. Quite a compliment Jay quips who coincidentally added, “even our manager’s name is Norm.”
Jay’s Penne Pasta with Gorgonzola
1 cup cream
2 tablespoons sun dried tomatoes
8 ounces mixed mushrooms
2 tablespoons garlic
1/4 cup gorgonzola cheese
Penne pasta
Candied pecans (These can be made by covering pecans with molasses and baking on a grease-covered pan for 10 minutes in a hot oven).
Olive oil
1. Saute the mushrooms, garlic and sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil over medium to high heat until the mushrooms give off its liquid.
2. Add the cream and gorgonzola cheese. Cook over high heat, letting the mixture reduce by a quarter.
3. Toss with Cooked penne pasta.
4. Top with candied pecans
Makes two servings.
FOR MORE INFORMATION:
Location/Hours:
135 West Oak, Fort Collins, Colorado 80524
Call for reservations.
Telephone: 979.482.1876.
Lunch: Monday – Friday from 11 a.m. – 4 p.m.
Dinner: Monday – Thursday 5 p.m. – 9 p.m.
Friday and Saturday: 5 p.m. – 9:30 p.m.
Sunday: 5 p.m. – 8:30 p.m.
Ron Stern is a Fort-Collins based writer and photographer who can be reached at Ron@globalfoodie.com.
