Archive | November, 2009

French House Party

French House Party

by Keith Kellett

Take six to a dozen different people, from all kinds of backgrounds and varied cooking abilities. Add a French master chef, a skilled sous-chef, one who is also a wine expert, and her husband, who is another wine expert. Blend together in a modernised 200-year-old farmhouse in France’s Languedoc district, serve with walking, cycling, tennis and swimming on the side, and you have the French House Party.

St. Raymond's Gastro Acadamy where we learn to cook.

St. Raymond's Gastro Acadamy where we learn to cook.

The French House Party offers a wide range of courses, ranging from video and movie making, through drama and artwork to creative writing. But, their signature dish is probably the Gastro Academy.

There are three cookery courses to choose from; the 7-day Cook au Vin;, the 6-day Gourmet Explorer; and the 3-day Cuisine in Brief, which I attended. But, please be advised, they aren’t intended to turn you into a gourmet cook overnight. It’s a pity experience is the only appropriate word I can think of.

Chef Robert Abraham ready to teach us some of what he knows.

Chef Robert Abraham ready to teach us some of what he knows.

Chopping and creating our masterpieces.

Chopping and creating our masterpieces.

But, before I get carried away by the relaxing Art Deco atmosphere of the dining-room, sitting room and bedrooms, I’d better talk about the kitchen which, of course, would be the main focus of our business. After lunch on the first day, we were briefly introduced to it, to help to make amuses-bouche, which sounds a lot nicer than nibbles,  to go with our pre-dinner apéritif.

The kitchen is long, with a central table running down the middle, with provisions  for taller (or shorter) people to take part without too much discomfort. It was only recently refurbished, and gasps of admiration and envy greeted it. And, I have an idea that some of those features might shortly be adopted in the kitchens of the participants.

Before dinner, the chef de cuisine, Robert Abraham, introduced himself. He would, he said, be overseeing our cooking on the morrow, but first, we needed ingredients. In the morning, we would accompany him to the market in Revel to buy them.

The chef manages to find the market's best.

The chef manages to find the market's best.

Up to a year ago, I thought that the idea of the chef going to the market and personally selecting ingredients was a fiction put about by the makers of TV food programmes. But, in the last twelve months, I’ve met two chefs who did just that, so I’m happy to stand corrected.

Unfortunately, my French isn’t good enough to understand the discussion — maybe even haggling — that went on between Chef Robert and the stallholders, but we came away with basketfuls of provisions that could have been entered in a competition in any County Show at home in the UK.

So, with all the people and ingredients assembled, we were ready to begin cooking. We had three sessions, prepared three meals and, for the sake of brevity, I’ll just talk about the main courses. Under the eye of Chef Robert, we all took part; some to a greater extent than others. I thought back to basic training days, when I’d sit down to a meal, and think, with pride, “I peeled those potatoes!”

For lunch on the first day, we had duck breasts with apples reinette. The apples were baked with lemon juice, honey, butter, pepper and cinnamon; the duck cooked in Noilly Prat and served in slices. It was covered with a sauce made from apple juice and the juiced the duck was cooked in.

Our plated duck and apple slices with Noilly Prat and sauce.

Our plated duck and apple slices with Noilly Prat and sauce.

Dinner was St. Jacques scallops served with orange butter sauce and parsnips. I used to think I didn’t like parsnips, but I changed my mind when I tasted these. The main learning point, though, was getting the edible bit out of the scallop. Weretained the shells, to serve a seafood starter for the the following lunch.

The main course on that occasion was monkfish rouelle, served with new potatoes and a tartine of a slice of fried aubergine (that’s eggplant, to my transatlantic readers) topped with a sauce of mussels and shallots.

We also helped to make starters and sweets too numerous to mention here, except that everyone enthused about the crême brulée and the madeleines.

No French meal would be complete without the wine, and here, wine expert Carl Hargreaves came to the fore. He selected wines he thought would go best with each course and he and his wife, sous-chef Debbie, held a wine-tasting just prior to our departure.

My favourite was the Muscat served before the first dinner. It’s said that Dom Perignon visited the area, and refined the recipe for Muscat into champagne.

We all enjoy a little wine talk -- and the wine.

We all enjoy a little wine talk -- and the wine.

And, a misconception about French cooking was also corrected. I’d missed it, but it wasn’t till the end, on the way back to the airport, that director Moira Martingale pointed out that, at no point in the weekend did Robert use garlic.

In 2008, the French House Party was named ‘Top Learning Retreat’ in the National Geographic book “100 Best Worldwide Vacations to Enrich Your Life.” Cooking is by no means all that goes on there. Find out much more at

www.frenchhouseparty.co.uk

Posted in FoodDetails or FoodieTales, France, Keith Kellett, Raves and ReviewsComments (0)

Chocolate Bliss

Chocolate Bliss

By Richard Frisbie

chocolatebliss

Chocolate Bliss written by Susie Norris
Subtitled: Sensuous recipes, spa treatments, and other divine indulgences.
ISBN #978-1-58761-347-0 $16.99 Hardcover

I know, I know. What is a guy well-known for his disdain for desserts, especially chocolate desserts, doing reviewing a book on chocolate?  Well, ask yourself – who could be more objective, a chocolate lover, or me?  I’m open to new ideas and ways of thinking, and I’m always willing to research the other side of a position.  In this case, I’m glad I did.

Chocolate Bliss looks like a light book – almost fluffily frivolous – in its cute 7” square size and color photos. I was not prepared for the comprehensive, informative text or the engaging writing style of the author.  Chocolate Bliss is much more than it appears.

To quote the author, Susie Norris, in her introduction:  “I am a pastry chef, chocolatier, culinary school teacher, and snickers bar sneaker.”  Right away she establishes her credentials, interest and sense of humor. I was hooked!

The book is divided into four information packed segments; each dealing with a different aspect of chocolate, and each ending in a collection of recipes.
I – Good Taste – Exploring your favorite chocolates
. . . is an explanation of the different elements of chocolate’s taste, with definitions, websites, techniques for tastings, history and a list of great books of chocolate recipes. Then Susie Norris presents “sensuous recipes: from bonbons to fondue”
II – Health and Beauty – How chocolate helps you inside and out
. . . explains how chocolate is good for you – as a health food, as a vitamin, and for your blood, heart, skin, teeth and brain. The relevant scientific studies are discussed, their findings and supporters examined, and advice on how to control your cravings is given.  She finishes with “healthy recipes: from snacks to skin care.”
III – Good Works – How you can help chocolate
. . . is a vivid account of how chocolate grows, including the importance of preserving the environment it grows in, as well as saving the way of life of the 50 million people involved in its harvesting and distribution worldwide. Throughout this you’re given the fair-trade and organic chocolate argument with sound reasons to follow it.  She then includes “earthy recipes: from chili to cheesecake.”
IV – Share the Love – the gift of chocolate
. . . begins with the Aztec myths to explain how chocolate’s perception as a “gift of the gods” continues through the Holidays and celebrations of today. Halloween, Christmas, Hanukkah, Valentine’s Day, Easter – even Birthdays and Weddings – each has a chocolate tradition whose history is examined. The author then offers “gifting recipes: from cupcakes to white chocolate roses.”

Did You Know . . .
Ninety-eight percent of women have food cravings, as do 68 percent of men?

Chocolate generates an estimated $80 billion annual international income?

Chocolate is the third largest global commodity behind sugar and coffee?

Cocoa butter melts at around 91 degrees?

An ounce of very dark chocolate every day is healthy medicine?

Throughout the pages pithy and humorous quotes are included from literature, famous chefs, and cookbook authors. Facts and factoids from chemistry to history are also used to help reinforce the text. Chocolate Bliss is fun to read!

As for Chocolate Bliss as a cookbook, each of the attractively illustrated recipes is presented in a clear and logical manner. Methods, tips for success, and shortcuts are included in detail with the reasoning behind them. Whenever a specialized ingredient is given, it is defined, and shopping information and brand recommendations are given. It is clear that the author is a culinary instructor. She really knows how to make following the recipes easy.

I liked this book! In fact, I liked it so much I went to my local health food store and bought a bag of organic cocoa nibs* to add to the Chocolate Sugar Dough recipe (page 132) for the tart crust (page 59) for my Thanksgiving cheese cake. I told you I could keep an open mind!

*cocoa nibs are pure cocoa beans that have been fermented, hulled, roasted, and cracked, but not ground, to a paste. They have a nut-like crunch. (There are 8 references to cocoa nibs in the index.)

Chocolate Bliss by Susie Norris
Subtitled: Sensuous recipes, spa treatments, and other divine indulgences.
ISBN #978-1-58761-347-0 150 pages Hardcover $16.99
http://www.crownpublishing.com

Posted in Food Features, Raves and Reviews, Richard FrisbieComments (0)

Dining through Disney’s Epcot Center

Dining through Disney’s Epcot Center

By Maureen Costello

My niece called me out of the blue last January inviting me on a world tour of all the ethnic restaurants at Epcot Center.

Alison and me with the staff at the Marrakash. We're the shorter ones in the middle.

Alison and me with the staff at the Marrakash. We're the shorter ones in the middle.

As an employee of Disney-owned ESPN, Alison is a “cast member,” meaning she receives significant discounts at each of the Walt Disney empires.

“I remember you said you always wanted to try all the restaurants at Epcot Center,” she said referring to the 11 restaurants that make up the park’s World Showcase. “I’m going to make that dream come true for you.”

I do not remember expressing that specifically to Alison, though I have been quite vocal about that idea since I first visited Walt Disney World 11 years earlier. I am beyond flattered to know that Alison was listening.

We only had three full days to sample something from every country represented. Some restaurants such as Canada’s, Le Cellier Steakhouse, was only open for dinner. None serve breakfast. We needed to accommodate six, maybe seven meals. Some stops would have to be snacks. I should also mention that though we had a discount toward food, Alison, 23, has yet to accumulate a salary comparable to those whose sports highlights she readies for Sports Center. I am hardly better off so finances were essential to factor in especially as dinner entrees could easily run $37 apiece – not including dessert.

You don’t need to be a foodie to benefit from Epcot Center’s World Showcase, even if it is only for an afternoon. The theme park giant goes over the top to represent the culture, food, music, dance, art, history and, in some instances, even the plant life of Mexico, Norway, China, Germany, Italy, the USA, Japan, Morocco, France, United Kingdom and Canada. Employees of these venues are frequently young adults from their native land working at Disney on a one-year Visa. The program works well for both. Disney guests learn about the culture directly from someone born and raised there, and the worker learns about America both through their work at Epcot and field trips to cities such as New York and Chicago, which Disney organizes.

Top chefs and gourmet selections require guests make dinner reservations months in advance at Walt Disney World’s Signature Dining restaurants. Though we were four months away from our trip, I grabbed the only seating available for Restaurant Marrakesh, which features authentic Moroccan cuisine. I struck out with the rest for dinner until I secured a table for Bistro de Paris. I then reserved the last available table at Coral Reef Restaurant, a seafood restaurant that is in Epcot, but not part of the showcase.

The Maya Grill at the Coronado Springs Resort, where we were staying, is owned by the San Angel Inn Restaurante in Epcot’s Mexico showcase. The grill served buffet breakfasts only, but we decided its Latin culture and flavors would be representative of San Angel, where I had enjoyed dinner years before. I had also eaten at Le Cellier, and we could not get reservations anyway. Alison’s goal was to wean off of chicken fingers, burgers and fries, the dominant menu items at The American Adventure, so it was scratched.

The months pass and we were finally at JFK when Alison confided that she has never tasted an olive. Fortunately we were flying Jet Blue which boasts the trendy Re:vive restaurants at the gates. We split a lunch of fresh mozzarella with olive tapenade, fresh basil between two slices of toasted ciabetta. One bite and Alison’s olive deficiency was remedied.

The in-flight snack was nothing to write home (or here) about. But once settled into the resort, we walked over to the bar to sample a mojito. Alison exclaimed that the big news at ESPN was that the bartender by the pool at Coronado Springs Resort made the best mojito ever. A flight delay meant we got to the bar minutes before it closed. We forgot the bartender’s name and our camera, but admit his was a refreshingly sweet and minty mojito, with just enough rum to take the edge off of knowing our luggage had yet to arrive.

The following is a quick pictorial show of the meals my niece and I shared during our three-day “world tour.”

Alison is eating a fresh toasted mozzarella and olive tapenade sandwich at re: vive, a bar situated at every few Jet Blue terminals.

Alison is eating a fresh toasted mozzarella and olive tapenade sandwich at re: vive, a bar situated at every few Jet Blue terminals.

Our first stop at Disney was the Marrakash, Epcot's upscale Moroccan restaurant. Our main course was a lemon-pepper roasted chicken leg and roasted lamb shank sandwiching the most succulant couscous with steamed vegetables. Our wine is Beni M'tir , a dry, full-bodied red with fragrances of almond, citrus peel, orange marmalade, fig cinnamon and mint. The grapes were grown in Morocco's Amazigh region.

Our first stop at Disney was the Marrakash, Epcot's upscale Moroccan restaurant. Our main course was a lemon-pepper roasted chicken leg and roasted lamb shank sandwiching the most succulant couscous with steamed vegetables. Our wine is Beni M'tir , a dry, full-bodied red with fragrances of almond, citrus peel, orange marmalade, fig cinnamon and mint. The grapes were grown in Morocco's Amazigh region.

This tiny lemon tree growing beside our table reminded me of the blossoming lemon plants beside another table in Splendida, Portofino, Italy.

This tiny lemon tree growing beside our table reminded me of the blossoming lemon plants beside another table in Splendida, Portofino, Italy.

We are at Tutto Italia on a blue-skied 89-degree Florida afternoon. Alison is having a chilled 2007 Rose Centine ($7) with her asparagus salad.

We are at Tutto Italia on a blue-skied 89-degree Florida afternoon. Alison is having a chilled 2007 Rose Centine ($7) with her asparagus salad.

We did not leave Italy without sampling vanilla bean gelatto sandwiched between light pastry and drizzled with warm milk chocolate sauce. We were not above pouring the leftover chocolate onto spoons and devouring it.

We did not leave Italy without sampling vanilla bean gelatto sandwiched between light pastry and drizzled with warm milk chocolate sauce. We were not above pouring the leftover chocolate onto spoons and devouring it.

Here we are in Norway enjoying a midafternoon snack of fresh strawberry and black raspberry tart at Kringla's. $3.99. On the side is a frosty Bailey's coffee. Sandwiches here, which we did not have, include salmon, egg and red onion on multigrain bread.

Here we are in Norway enjoying a midafternoon snack of fresh strawberry and black raspberry tart at Kringla's, $3.99. On the side is a frosty Bailey's coffee. Sandwiches here, which we did not have, include salmon, egg and red onion on multigrain bread.

Alison's first sushi meal (and definitely not her last!) was served at Tokyo Dining. This sampler features tuna, yellowtail shrimp and California rolls. Keeping with tradition, we each had a shot of Junmai sake, brewed from the waters of Mt. Tenzan, part of the Saga Perfecture, which is in Northwestern Japan.

Alison's first sushi meal (and definitely not her last!) was served at Tokyo Dining. This sampler features tuna, yellowtail shrimp and California rolls. Keeping with tradition, we each had a shot of Junmai sake, brewed from the waters of Mt. Tenzan, part of the Saga Perfecture, which is in Northwestern Japan.

The Country Style Meat plate, the first of two appetizers we had at Bistro de Paris, consisted of homemade pate, beef croquette, duck rillette and smoked duck magret.

The Country Style Meat plate, the first of two appetizers we had at Bistro de Paris, consisted of homemade pate, beef croquette, duck rillette and smoked duck magret.

The duck breast, polenta galette with raisin, artichoke and sun choke purse verjus sauce. Verjus sauce is combination of squeezed unripe grapes, herbs and spices.

The duck breast, polenta galette with raisin, artichoke and sun choke purse verjus sauce. Verjus sauce is combination of squeezed unripe grapes, herbs and spices.

Our second appetizer, escargot and mushroom cassolette with parsely butter, frog leg fritters and watercress veloute. A veloute sauce is one of four traditional French sauces. It means velvety and is made of equal parts butter and flour mixed with a stock of either chicken, veal or fish bones.

Our second appetizer, escargot and mushroom cassolette with parsely butter, frog leg fritters and watercress veloute. A veloute sauce is one of four traditional French sauces. It means velvety and is made of equal parts butter and flour mixed with a stock of either chicken, veal or fish bones.

Alison struck gold with the Atlantic red snapper with calmari Basquaise style, rice and squid ink.

Alison struck gold with the Atlantic red snapper with calmari Basquaise style, rice and squid ink.

I had the warm and frozen Grand-Marnier souffle. The chocolate cake was warm and filled with a warm chocolate pudding. On the side is a shot of Grand Marnier and the spoon is a single serving of gourmet French white chocolate. I hated to share.

I had the warm and frozen Grand-Marnier souffle. The chocolate cake was warm and filled with a warm chocolate pudding. On the side is a shot of Grand Marnier and the spoon is a single serving of gourmet French white chocolate. I hated to share.

Les desserts! Alison tops off her snapper and squid meal with a mouthwatering serving of vanilla creme brulee, caramelized rice pudding, upside down caramel cream and a scoop of creme brulee ice cream. One bite and she realized a dessert needn't be chocolate to be delectable.

Les desserts! Alison tops off her snapper and squid meal with a mouthwatering serving of vanilla creme brulee, caramelized rice pudding, upside down caramel cream and a scoop of creme brulee ice cream. One bite and she realized a dessert needn't be chocolate to be delectable.

Le Saout Yoann prepared crepes duo Suzette at our table.

Le Saout Yoann prepared crepes duo Suzette at our table.

e shared an appetizer of General Tso's chicken steamed dumplings beneath a warm Chinese red sauce with a side of scallions and cilantro at Nine Dragons.

e shared an appetizer of General Tso's chicken steamed dumplings beneath a warm Chinese red sauce with a side of scallions and cilantro at Nine Dragons.

A cook prepares my Southwest omelet.

A cook prepares my Southwest omelet.

Fresh bread at the Pepper Market.

Fresh bread at the Pepper Market.

Posted in Culinary Columns, Maureen CostelloComments (0)