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BELGIUM: Vincent Florizoone

BELGIUM: Vincent Florizoone

Mythology of a Young Innovator: Vincent FlorizooneBy Maria Lisella

Chef Vincent Florizoone. Photo by Maria Lisella.
A splashy entrance is not Vincent Florizoone’s style. If anything, his understated arrival at an interview on the 44th Floor of the New York Times building was inauspicious. Lanky and handsome, he is charming in a relaxed way, no affectations or airs. At at the mere mention of food he is alert, happy and ready to chat about his most recent tasting adventure.

Voted the most innovative chef of Flanders in 2010, the Belgian culinary magazine SMAAK called him a star in 2008; and while even younger, in 2007, Vincent Florizoone received the Trophée Champagne Jacquart, a very prestigious prize for a top chef under 35 years old without a Michelin star.

He outgrew his restaurant, Petit Cabaret in Veurne, and relocated to a bigger place in Nieuwpoort in June 2008 where he opened Grand Cabaret. That same year, he earned his first quotation from GaultMillau 14/20.
Two years ago, Florizoone was the leading chef in a group of equally impressive peers who were chosen to impart their knowledge of modern Flemish cuisine to British chefs and media at Harrods.

Today at 32, Florizoone is an integrated composite of all of his training – from learning next to mom and dad, both of whom own their own restaurants, to studying under the mighty toque of Belgian chef, Gianpierre Bruneau who saw in Florizoone a shooting star. Bruneau paved the way for young Florizoone to study under and alongside Alfonso Iaccarino in Sorrento, Italy and Ferran Adrià at el Bulli in Spain. Taking a page from Iaccarino, much of the produce Florizoone uses at his restaurant has been grown within kilometers of his restaurant.

Recently, Florizoone cooked up a storm in New York City as a way to introduce Big Apple gastronomic media and travel communities to the rich panorama of Modern-Day Flemish Cuisine.
ML: How have you come to represent what is so new in Flemish cuisine?
VZ: I appreciate classic dishes, deconstructing a bit, enhancing them, while not really altering their basic nature. The classics are experiencing a renaissance and they should – they are being presented in new ways, they look different but their roots are very true to their origin.


Hennepot is a good example – in Flemish dialect it means hen in a pot literally…a dish cooked in a pot of clay that can be served at room temperature; I’ve translated it with gelatin, de-boned chicken, sorbet made with granny smith apples, and other ingredients, but it is still hennepot.

ML: How did you get involved in Harrod’s Flemish Fortnight?
VZ:Harrods googled me because they looked for different chefs to illustrate various aspects of Flemish cooking, and I was the youngest who was also preparing and presenting traditional Flemish cuisine in a new way but I was in stellar company: Desmidt is now a two-star chef (Restaurant Bartholomeus in Knokke) and one of the best in Belgium; when I eat there I can never find anything wrong at all with what has been prepared – it’s always perfect and amazing. Try as I might just to tease him, nothing is ever wrong.
ML: There is very little about you on the web in English at least, so when did you start cooking?
VZ: My grandfather, brother, father and mother are all cooks, chefs; my parents each have their own restaurant – hers is on the seaside in Koksijde and seats 220; while his is in Teper outside of Pouprin and seats 45. I always worked in restaurants with my parents — have been cooking since I was 16.

ML: When did you decide to become a professional?
VZ: My father wanted me to be a doctor so I studied Greek and Latin; he warned me to do well in languages, so I succeeded at Greek and Latin but failed at everything else, a planned failure that was a gateway to what I loved best.

ML: Did you attend a culinary institute? How and where did you apprentice?
VZ: At that time, Belgium had maybe four Michelin-starred restaurants, today there are at least 22. When I was 18, I worked with Gianpierre Bruneau who is like the Gordon Ramsey of Belgium — the “living hell,” and also the best person to work with and the best place to have worked – what I really learned was discipline. Bruneau is a very hard task-master — he formed me.

ML: How did you get to work at the three-Michelin-starred Relais Don Alfonso in Sorrento and at Ferran Adrià’s el Bulli in Spain?
VZ: It was a dream to go to Italy to learn the classics – Bruneau asked me if I just wanted to go to cook pastas, but it was more than that of course – I wanted to work at a two or three-star Michelin starred restaurant; my goal was to become an all-around chef, to be as knowledgeable as I could be.


Before I knew it, Bruneau arranged it; I had one day’s notice – I packed and arrived in Sorrento, Italy where I studied under Alfonso Iaccarino for three years. Once voted as best Mediterranean restaurant in the world, people like Bill Clinton and Maggie Thatcher would fly to Sorrento just for a meal there, so you can imagine the quality.

At El Bulli, it was all about learning the best dishes – from tapas to dessert — experimentation, innovation – Ferran has been called the world’s greatest chef, the Salvador Dali of the kitchen and Time magazine placed him on the list of the 100 most influential people of our times.
ML: What were the differences between working in Belgium versus working in the Mediterranean?

VZ: No rush, no stress…it was amazing. During the first month, I understood the language and after three, I could speak it…I was immersed in it. I would receive my list of tasks but to be completed within the day not the two hours I was used to, so I learned to slow down, pace myself. Alfonso Iaccarino has acres of rich volcanic soil near the sea, it is almost purple where he cultivates vegetables or purchases raw materials from small producers in the area.

I worked with 14 cooks from 11 nations and on our days off each month we would invite the group to our apartments and cook something from our country so we could sample as much as possible. I have tasted cockroaches from Thailand and fresh grasshoppers, so I can say I have a very all-around palatte.
ML: Do you have a favorite cookbook?
VZ: Make Up by Bonelli Gianluiggi and do you know why I love it, because it is just pictures, no recipes, few words…I hunt for inspiration, do not need to be dictated to but sometimes I need a jumping off point, visuals do that for me. We taste with the tongue, the nose and the eye also very much wants something to, so you have to feed that desire.

ML: What advice would you give to young people who aspire to be professional chefs?
VZ: I would say anyone can be a good cook – it takes hard work, the most important element – then a commitment to be fast, a multi-tasker, to get the various dishes to the table all at once while they are still warm…everything tastes good if prepared with love.

ML: What advice would you give at-home cooks who want to upgrade their own expertise?
VZ: In a perfect world, it would be optimum if they could work in a famous chef’s kitchen, intern, but that is not usually possible. I would suggest the simplest thing – cook and use vegetables and fruits according to season and that includes knowing when to avoid fish during their breeding time or they will disappear that much sooner.

ML: And, finally, what impressions would you like visitors to Belgium to take home with them in terms of the cuisine?
VZ: We have a very rich culinary tradition for sure – I would ask visitors to forget mussels and waffles, although when they are good, they are very good. Our mussel season is from September through April, so fall, winter, spring, but apart from those times, do not go near the mussels. Do taste our beers, they are the best anywhere…in Maine, Ebenezer Christopher’s sells 35 Belgian beeers, some we cannot even get at home, but among my favorites are the Belgian Geuze, of which there are many.

New York-based, Maria Lisella may be reached at: marialessella@aol.com. View more of her work at www.nytwa.info/marialisella 

Posted in Belgium, Food Features, FoodDetails or FoodieTales, International Cuisine & Travel, Maria Lisella, WritersComments (0)

Boston Bakes for Breast Cancer

Boston Bakes for Breast Cancer

Celebrate Boston’s sweetest week with Buca di Beppo, Da Vinci Ristorante, Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse, Poe’s Kitchen at the Rattlesnake & Stanhope Grille

By Bryan Barbieri

Boston Bakes for Breast Cancer! Courtesy photo.

WHAT: Boston Bakes for Breast Cancer is celebrating its 12th year of success in the city! This year, some of the area’s premier restaurants and bakeries will be joining forces to help raise money to benefit breast cancer research and care at the Dana-Farber Cancer Institute. Establishments will choose one dessert to feature for a week where 100 percent of the proceeds goes directly to the Boston Bakes for Breast Cancer organization. This year, Buca di Beppo, Da Vinci Ristorante, Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse, Poe’s Kitchen at the Rattlesnake and Stanhope Grille at The Back Bay Hotel have promised to donate all of its selected dessert proceeds to join in the battle against breast cancer.

Dessert options include: Buca di Beppo – Strawberry Cannoli; Da Vinci Ristorante – Raspberry Cheesecake; Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse – Warm Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream; Haru – Cheesecake Tempura; Poe’s Kitchen at the Rattlesnake – Jalapeño & Cinnamon Chocolate Soufflé with Jalapeño Basil Ice Cream and Smoked Cinnamon Anglaise; and, Stanhope Grille – Strawberry Shortcake.

WHEN: Available May 2nd through 8th, 2011

WHERE: Participating restaurants include the following:

Buca di Beppo (locations in Dedham, Lexington, Seekonk and Shrewsbury)

Da Vinci Ristorante (162 Columbus Avenue, Boston)

Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse (75 Arlington Street, Boston)

Poe’s Kitchen at the Rattlesnake (384 Boylston Street, Boston)

Stanhope Grille at The Back Bay Hotel (350 Stuart Street, Boston)

ABOUT BOSTON BAKES FOR BREAST CANCER:

Now in its 12th year, Boston Bakes for Breast Cancer has evolved and grown into one of the sweetest weeks Boston and the Greater Boston area has experienced. Teaming up with restaurants, bakeries, and cafes across the region, Boston Bakes offers the opportunity to enjoy a delectable dessert, and support breast cancer research and care at the same time. Previously a part of The Eva Brownman Breast Cancer Fund, Boston Bakes for Breast Cancer is now registered through the Attorney General’s Office as an official commercial co-venture. For more information, please visit: www.bostonbakesforbreastcancer.org.

Bryan is the senior media relations rep for these restaurants — and this great cause. He wrote this for Globalfoodie.

Posted in Northeast, Tidbits, U.S. Cuisine & TravelComments (0)

NEW YORK: FRISBIE AT CIA BOOT CAMP

NEW YORK: FRISBIE AT CIA BOOT CAMP

Plays well with others …

By Richard Frisbie

Ready to eat?

The image that comes to mind when I hear “Boot Camp” does not include kitchen skills, especially when it’s prefaced with CIA. I think of sweaty bodies and abusive drill sergeants constantly shouting orders to do more push-ups. Naturally then, it was with some trepidation that I accepted an invitation to attend a CIA Boot Camp, even though they told me it was about food. (And they didn’t mean KP!)

Exterior shot of the CIA (Photo by Richard Frisbie.)

That’s how I recently found myself at the Culinary Institute, in full chef regalia, standing on the 6 a.m. breakfast line with 2,000 other students. It is a cafeteria cattle-call with a blackboard menu. I filed in, gave my order and waited, watching the class whose job it was to actually cook breakfast until my name was called. That’s what is great about the CIA. Students get real hands-on cooking experience in the student cafeteria and in each of the four public campus restaurants the CIA operates.


At dinner in the American Bounty Restaurant the evening before, students who were graduating the next day served our meal. Every aspect of food service, chemistry, and business, is a class each student must complete to graduate. That includes being waiters, bus boys, short-order cooks, sous chefs and chefs. If the professionalism and expertise I experienced at dinner are any indication, and I believe they are, the young men and women in the restaurant were ready to carry the mantle of the CIA into the culinary world.

Learning to cook at the CIA.

Our Boot Camp experience was a Farm-to-Table event focusing on the fresh bounty of Dutchess County farms. (The CIA is located in Hyde Park, Dutchess County, NY.) The first day we visited the farms and picked, dug, harvested and shopped for the ingredients we’d be cooking the next day. From the potatoes to the brussel sprouts, and from the goat cheese to the locally milled cornmeal, everything on the next day’s menu was sourced locally.


The Culinary Institute of America’s promotional material reads, “At Boot Camp you’ll discover how to select the perfect ingredients, how to prepare a variety of dishes, and how to demonstrate more confidence in your own kitchen. Hands-on cooking, chef demonstrations, and exceptional food make CIA Boot Camp one of “America’s Top Ten Destinations.”


What they don’t tell you is that you’ll be one of a group of “boot campers” working as a team to put complex meals on the table. Our group was only seven people, but there was work (and food enough) for at least twelve. That meant four teams of three (an ideal plan) was out, and we all had to work well together to produce a meal. I think we did a pretty good job, considering.

Making pasta.

Our “Team Production Assignments” were:
Team One
Heirloom Tomato and Goat Cheese Tart
Coq au Vin
Fresh Buttered Egg Pasta

Team Two
Warm Hudson Valley Salad with Baby Greens and Apples
Sautéed Berkshire Pork Cutlets with a Wild Mushroom Ragout
Potato Gnocchi

Team Three
Roast Rack of Lamb Persillé
Creamy Polenta
Oven-Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Lardons

Team Four
Skewered Beef Fillet with Chimichurri Sauce and Corn Relish
Corn Pudding
Braised Swiss Chard
Vanilla Ice Cream

I was Team Three, with some help with the brussel sprouts from the gnocci and swiss chard person. I helped with the chimichurri sauce, and took photos and a video when I wasn’t worried about burning the polenta!


In the classroom, beforehand, we reviewed the recipes and techniques we’d need to create this meal. When I asked how we’d be able to cook coq au vin in our 3 ½ hour cooking class, Chef Thomas said we’d use young hens instead of an old cock. He knew it would still be close, though.


I never cooked a rack of lamb before, and I had no idea what persillé meant. That’s why I volunteered to cook it. I learned that a persilladé is a bread and herb coating, and that lamb cooks very quickly! Also, that local farm-raised lamb is juicy and delicious even if it was medium rare instead of rare.


This next part is confusing to explain, but I’ll try. I was in a new kitchen surrounded by new people, cooking a recipe new to me, with descriptions in French that I didn’t understand. So, when the recipe called for me to make a mirepoix, I followed the instructions blindly, not knowing what I was doing, and not connecting. It all worked out all right, but it wasn’t until the next day that I realized that, had the recipe just said “make a sofrito,” I’d have known immediately what I was doing and been more comfortable. Next time I’ll ask what the unfamiliar terms mean before I start to cook.


For the rack of lamb I seasoned the Frenched ribs with salt, pepper, rosemary and thyme – on all sides. That roasted at 400 degrees for 15 minutes. Then I sprinkled the mirepoix (chopped onions, carrots and celery) around the lamb in the roasting pan and cooked at 350 degrees until an internal temp of 130. (I had no idea how long that would take. Someone suggested 45 minutes. In 17 minutes the internal temp was 132 degrees!) I set the lamb aside and made a sauce with the pan juices. It was strained, degreased and thickened (with arrowroot), and left to sit in a warm water bath while I mixed the bread crumbs, garlic and parsley, with melted butter. I brushed the lamb with whole grain mustard, and pressed the breading onto the top of the rack of lamb. At quarter after twelve I popped the lamb into a 400 degree oven to brown the crumbs. There was just time to carve off the individual ribs before the 12:30 p.m. serving.


For the polenta, I sautéed an onion and 2 cloves of garlic in 3 tablespoons of oil in a tall saucepan. I added 2 ½ cups water and the some of milk. When that was boiling, I added 1 ¼ tsp salt, and slowly drizzled 1 1/3 cups corn meal into the boiling liquid, stirring constantly. I continued boiling and stirring until it began to thicken. Then I transferred it to a buttered baking dish, covered it, and baked it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. This method eliminates much of the stirring polenta usually gets, and freed me up for other things.


Other things included chef demonstrations of how to cut up a chicken, how to make pasta (wait until you see the photos!) and how to make mozzarella cheese. There was also time to help find strainers, measuring cups, the right pans – everything that is “lost” when you are in a strange kitchen. With all of this, we were on a tight schedule to produce everything at the same time, in time for lunch.


When I put the lamb in the oven for the browning, I removed the polenta, scraping it into a serving bowl, being careful not to disturb the bottom crust that developed on the pan. (That seemed like such a shame!) I stirred in ½ cup Parmesan and sprinkled another over the top. To dress it up some more, before putting it on the table I gathered the leftover herbed bread crumbs and sprinkled them on top.

The meal was almost a complete success. Our chef/instructor thought the corn pudding failed for reasons not related to the cook (it was grey!) and planned some test cooking with different utensils and techniques to determine what exactly went wrong. Everything else worked out perfectly, except that my camera batteries failed halfway through. Replacements were locked in my car and in a distant room, and there was no time to retrieve either. So bear with me in the photo dept while you enjoy the video on how to dismember a chicken.

Oven-Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Lardons
6 oz bacon cut into little strips
2 lbs brussel sprouts, stemmed, cut in half
1 tsp sea salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 500 degrees. Cook the bacon until it is crisp in a large oven-proof frying pan. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Have a large bowl of ice water nearby. Blanch the Brussel Sprouts for one minute in the boiling water. Remove to the ice water until chilled. Drain. Let dry on paper towels. When completely dry, toss with salt and pepper in the bacon and fat in the frying pan. Place in the hot oven and roast, shaking the pan occasionally, until they are tender and lightly charred, about 10 minutes. Serve hot.


The pasta was really good, as only fresh pasta can be, especially drenched with an herbed butter. The coq au vin was ready in time and delicious in a falling-off-the-bone kind of way. The braised red cabbage was an extra recipe we made because the cabbage looked so good. (Certainly, it was not because we needed more food, or had extra time!) It was similar to jarred red cabbage only waay better. I made that again as soon as I got home. The skewered beef was the wrong cut and too tough, but the relishes with it were very tasty, really complimented the good flavor of the beef. The pork and mushrooms were delicious, as good as the lamb, but so different. The braised swiss chard was perfect with this combination of foods. Finally, how can you go wrong with ice cream?


It was altogether too much food for the seven of us, plus the chef and two student helpers. We invited more people to join us, until we were 20 or so friends and colleagues celebrating our success cooking the bounty of local farms. We deserved to celebrate. We all worked together to put this meal on the table, and we all earned the passing grade – “Plays Well With Others!”


The Culinary Institute of America is a leader in the Farm-to-Fork movement. They believe in buying the freshest and best ingredients, and try to buy from local purveyors when possible. As proof of their commitment, the CIA hired a local farmer to coordinate local farm purchases. As an example, they buy 750,000 eggs locally every year. By next year they will all be free-range chicken eggs.


Sign up for the CIA Boot Camps online. They have all manner of classes from basic to advanced, and from baking to Asian cuisine, lasting from one day to 5 days. You’ll have a great time, you’ll learn new cooking techniques, and make a whole new bunch of foodie friends!


The Culinary Institute of America
1946 Campus Drive
Hyde Park, NY 12538
877-334-6464

http://www.ciachef.edu/enthusiasts/bootcamps/

Posted in Food Features, FoodDetails or FoodieTales, International Cuisine & Travel, Richard FrisbieComments (0)

Richard Frisbie Savors Saveur

Richard Frisbie Savors Saveur

Alevropita (A Saveur Feta Tart)
By RICHARD FRISBIE
Sometimes a recipe just jumps off the page at me. It’s as if it were one of those Mad Men era Virginia Slims commercials: “Taste Me, Taste Me.” That’s what happened while I was reading the current issue of Saveur magazine. First, there was an article about “congealed salads.” They didn’t call them that, of
course. That’s what we called them back when those Virginia Slim cigarettes used to dance across the TV screen. Everything old is new again. The recipe for “Paradise” salad, which first appeared in a 1931 Knox gelatin magazine, is reprised in a recent issue of Saveur with a stunning photograph. I just had to make it. The real appeal, besides nostalgia for my lost youth, is that the salad is easy to make. I had all the ingredients, and it could become a lunch staple where I work. (I’m always on the lookout for tasty, unusual salads that are easy and keep well. This one looked perfect.) It’s a simple enough recipe. Shred some cabbage, chop a green pepper, some celery and pimentos. Mix gelatin, cold water, lemon juice, salt and rice vinegar. The recipe calls for ½ cup sugar, but I’d cut that in half. Heat the liquid to dissolve everything, cool and stir in the vegetables. Pour the lot into a greased mold. Refrigerate. Unmold.

Paradise Sale, a beautiful, yellowish/clear gelatin with red and green vegetables in it; quite tasty and beautiful to look at. I can see why gelatin salads will become popular again. Check out that recipe. (Photo by Richard Frisbie.)

The issue also contains an entire article on Greek food. I’m tentatively scheduled for a Greek press trip this fall, so any articles on the food and wine of Greece are research for me. Besides, I’m fascinated with Greek culture, I’ve always wanted to go to there. The author describes the experience of first encountering the dish, alevropita, at an inn. It was served as a meze, or small taste, but was such a transcendent culinary experience that he persuaded the innkeeper to give him the recipe. The whole article carefully documents how she made the complete dish for him, all the ingredients and times, so he’d know how to do it himself. The innkeeper used the Greek equivalent of grappa, incorporated some of the feta in the simple egg batter, and topped it with a
sprinkling of paprika. The result was a thin crispy tart. The photograph made it look fantastically delicious. When it finally came time to recreate the recipe, something happened to the authenticity after the editors got their hands on it. Instead of a round pan that was the correct size for the ingredients, an 18 inch rectangular pan was listed. Vodka replaced the grappa, but if you hadn’t read the article you wouldn’t know that. Water called for in the recipe wasn’t listed in the ingredients. All the feta was sprinkled on top of the mix in the pan, which was too big to keep the edges from being too thin and burning. There was no paprika suggested. It may sound as if I’m complaining. I’m not. I’m simply pointing out the differences between what the innkeeper made and what the editors wrote; the authentic dish versus the modern equivalent. Once you’ve read both you can decide which way you want to make it. I used the recipe (against my better judgment) because I believe in following the recipe the first time, then making the changes my tastebuds and my eyes tell me are necessary. Next time I’m definitely using a slightly smaller pan, some grappa instead of vodka, and I will incorporate some feta in the mix before sprinkling
the rest on top. We’ll see about the paprika.

(Photo by Richard Frisbie.)

This recipe looks could be the base for any number of delicious hors d’oeuvres. Substituting a seasoned feta and adding caramelized onions, chopped
chives, black olives, or garlic would add dimensions to please both the nose and the eye before beginning to saveur (sic;) the taste. Spreading an olivada or pesto on top would deliciously compound the flavors. This recipe is definitely a keeper. I can’t wait to play with it. Get the current issue of Saveur Magazine for these and other recipes you can have fun with.

(Photo by Richard Frisbie.)

Posted in International Cuisine & Travel, Raves and Reviews, Richard FrisbieComments (0)

EAT DRINK DINE!

EAT DRINK DINE!

Cookin’ with Cookbooks
By Sue Frause

I admit to Googling recipes when I’m in a rush and have no time to peruse my cookbook library. Granted, it’s not quite as extensive and impressive as the collection of my chef friend Marty Fernandez, who has more than 400 old and new titles. But the four open shelves in our kitchen, jammed with colorful books in all shapes and sizes, is somehow comforting. Plus, when that novel proves to be a no-reader, I can always grab a cookbook for some gastronomic relief.

According to the Joy of Baking website, http://www.joyofbaking.com/reviews/cookbookhistory.html, the first cookbooks were written by chefs for chefs (and recipes were once known as receipts). I have a number of chef’s titles: The Escoffier Cookbook; Cooking with Craig Claiborne and Pierre Franey; John Sarich’s Food & Wine of the Pacific Northwest; Beard on Pasta; Anthony Bourdain’s Les Halles Cookbook; Julia Child’s Mastering the Art of French Cooking; Tom Douglas’ Seattle Kitchen; Jacques Pepin’s Complete Techniques; and Rover’s: Recipes from Seattle’s Chef in the Hat.

My husband, who is the main cook in our house, has mastered many of the recipes including Bourdain’s Les Halles Fries and Boeuf Bourguignon. One of my favorite recipes is John Sarich’s Beef Tenderloin with Cabernet Sauvignon and Juniper Berry Sauce.

It’s a growing trend for restaurants and inns to publish cookbooks. Two of my restaurant cookbooks hail from Washington state’s Long Beach Peninsula: Shoalwater Restaurant and The Ark. Sadly, both restaurants are now closed, but their cuisine lives on through their recipes. One of my favorite cookbooks is from a bakery in Washington’s San Juan Islands, With Love & Butter: Favorite Recipes from Holly B’s Bakery on Lopez Island. Both a cookbook and memoir, with linoleum-block prints throughout, it includes recipes from the bakery along with other tasty treats.

Three members of the Top Table Restaurant Group in British Columbia have come out with cookbooks: Vancouver’s Blue Water Cafe and West, along with Araxi in Whistler. Araxi: Seasonal Recipes from the Celebrated Whistler Restaurant was nominated for a prestigious James Beard Foundation Award in the From a Professional Point of View category. Momofuku, by David Chang and Peter Meehan and The Fundamental Techniques of Classic Pastry Arts by The French Culinary Institute with Judith Choate were also nominated. The FCI took home the award.

Inns are also sharing their recipes with their guests and food lovers. Some 20 years ago I received one of the popular books in Karen Brown’s Country Inn Series from a friend: European Country Cuisine-Romantic Inns & Recipes. Although I’ve never made anything from it, I use it for a resource of places to stay across the pond. One of the most spattered and stained books in my collection is the Alice Bay Cookbook,  from Alice Bay Bed & Breakfast, located on Samish Island in Washington’s Skagit Valley (www.alicebay.com). With blackberries coming on strong on our Whidbey Island mini-farm, I’ll soon be making Julie Wilkinson Rousseau’s Blackberry Cobbler. I also enjoy her breakfast treats, soups and cookies (many with a Scandinavian flair).

Donna Leahy, an accomplished chef and friend, authored Recipe for a Country Inn: Fine Food from the Inn at Twin Linden. Donna and her husband Bob are the former owners and innkeepers of the luxurious Lancaster County, Pennsylvania B&B. And yet another friend, Sylvia Main of Victoria, BC’s, Fairholme Manor on Vancouver Island, enlisted me to edit her cookbook (www.fairholmemanor.com). Now in its second printing, Fabulous Fairholme: Breakfasts & Brunches is my go-to breaky and brunch cookbook. The Lemon Ricotta Pancakes and Fairholme’s Berry Muffins are two of my favorites.

So, no surprise that the cookbook bug has recently bitten me. Each Sunday in my Whidbey Island Life blog,http://blog.seattlepi.com/whidbey, I post a recipe in a series titled Cookin’ With Farmer Bob.  One of these years I’ll compile them and put them into a book.

Bon Appetit

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ITALIAN CLASSIC: Pasta con Aglio e Olio

ITALIAN CLASSIC: Pasta con Aglio e Olio

Pasta with Garlic and Olive Oil

By Peter Francis Battaglia

Here is my argument to all those people — take a good look at yourselves, you know who you are — who think they need to spend hours in the kitchen for a decent home-cooked meal.  You couldn’t be further from the truth.

Don’t be scared. Go for take-out or fast food when you feel like it; but really, you could make something on the fly and be shocked at how easy it is.

Pasta comes in all its shapes, sizes, varieties and is probably my most favorite food to cook and eat.  My grandfather, Innocenzo Scaramuzzi, who I take after in many ways, probably ate it everyday. Innocenzo, a New York city Italian immigrant from Grassano, Provincia di Matera, Basilicata, Italy (now that’s a mouthful), was a genius in the kitchen.  I would watch him and my grandmother cook for hours.  Couldn’t get enough of it.  And, everything they cooked was awesome, except maybe some of the more hard core old world dishes which included items that would make a voracious carnivore go ultra vegan.

This brings me to one of the simplest of all Italian dishes ever: pasta with garlic and oil, or Pasta con Aglio e Olio. Basically, it’s pasta, cooked al dente, drained and then sauteed in a big pan with three cloves of sliced garlic and good (I mean good) olive oil. Season with hot pepper flakes or black pepper (never both) and some salt.  After several trips to Italy I learned a pasta-serving style I prefer and I’m going to pass it on. Pasta should never be swimming in a sauce, especially one that’s oil-based.  How many times have you had pasta with garlic and oil and the macaroni hydroplanes on the plate because there is too much oil?

The pasta should have a nice coating of oil, but not an inch of oil in the dish.  In fact, in Italy from Venice to Palermo the oil based sauces almost appeared dry; but they were not and they were full of flavor.  For one-half pound of cooked angel hair use less than 1/8  an inch of olive oil in the bottom of the pan.  Heat the oil and add the garlic.  Don’t let it get to that brown stage. If it does you’ve gone too far. About one minute in the sizzling pan will allow the garlic to release its heady perfume into the oil.

Add the drained pasta, carefully and incorporate the oil and pasta. Add salt and pepper and then taste it. If it’s too dry for your liking add a little of the pasta water (I said “a little).

Sprinkle some grated parmigiano or pecorino, up to you, and you are done.  Not rocket science or a 12-hour ordeal.  Serve with a green vegetable or salad.  Garnish the pasta with chopped parsley — or not, again, not a deal breaker here.

Tonight I opened a can of no salt organic green beans, and drained it. I sauteed one minced shallot, then added that to the beans. A little kosher salt, one teaspoon of fig balsamic and I let that cook for five minutes. Then I drizzled extra virgin olive oil, infused with Meyer lemon (a Christmas gift). Gave it a quick stir and added a little fresh orange juice. Dash of black pepper and it as done.
The bright sour sweet and citrus flavors combined with the other ingredients perked up that dreary can of green beans, and brought a little sunshine into our kitchen on a dark, cold night.  It played off nicely with the Agli’Ugli (southern Italian dialect, I’m channeling the grandparents again).

So bundle up, it’s a cold one here at the Jersey Shore (no Snooki or The Situation in sight) and stop whining that you can’t cook a quick meal during the week.  It’s good for you.

And by the way, you can add capers, anchovies, small shrimp, cherry tomatoes — whatever you love — into the oil and garlic.

Read more of Peter’s work at: www.blog.afoodobsession.com/2009/12/29/italian-classic.aspx.

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BOSTON: Convention Center Pairs Renowned Chefs with New Restaurant

BOSTON: Convention Center Pairs Renowned Chefs with New Restaurant

*Editor’s note: What an exciting addition to Boston’s cityscape. I’m curious to see what kind of magic Lydia and Jasper create at Towne.  Please share your experiences. Send them to Denise@globalfoodie.com and I’ll post them after the story. Thank you — Denise

Lydia Shire and Jasper White Collaborate on Towne stove and spirits

By Regan Dillon, Public Relations official for the Moxie Agency

Front of Towne. Photo by Eric Levin

Towne stove and spirits (or simply Towne) opened July 30 at the John B. Hynes Veterans Memorial Convention Center with a great culinary combination. Lydia Shire and Jasper White, two of Boston’s best chefs, head this new 397-seat restaurant. It’s the city’s first private-public partnership and combines the Massachusetts Convention Center Authority (MCCA), its Executive Director James Rooney and developers Patrick Lyons and Ed Sparks. Towne opens its doors to convention attendees, tourists, residents and workers.

“This restaurant serves the people of Boston, from the thousands of visitors to the thousands of workers and residents in the Back Bay,” Lyons said.  “We believe in Boston, so as ambitious as this project is, we built it with the future of this city in mind.”

Towne stove and spirits has three dining rooms, just as many bars, a 90-seat outdoor balcony within 13,000 square feet. Even with all that space Towne is cozy and comfortable.  This two-story urban brasserie combines the farming and fishing of  New England’s best products, created cooked and served with a cosmopolitan flair. Reasonably priced, some of the menu includes: Peking chicken; a 12-course lobster tasting menu; a special rice menu that highlights the grain and its many cultural interpretations; and handmade pastas.

“Jasper has been my friend and confidante for 30 years and Mario has executed my menus to perfection since opening BiBa,” Shire said. “Our love and dedication to great food is at the core of Towne’s menu.”

Conversations about a restaurant in the Hynes began four years ago at the MCCA. After submitting proposals and competing against major restaurant chains, Lyons and Spark were selected by MCCA officials.

“We couldn’t imagine a better addition to the Hynes Convention Center.  With two of Boston’s best chefs and the creative business insight of Patrick Lyons and Ed Sparks, Towne is poised to not only enhance the experience of our convention guests but also create a new benchmark for city dining,” said Rooney.

Towne's interior (Photo by Eric Levin).

For more information: Towne at: www.towneboston.com

Hours: Daily open from 11:30 a.m. – midnight. Bar: 11:30 a.m. – 2 a.m. – Telephone: 617- 247-0400.

Posted in FoodDetails or FoodieTales, NortheastComments (0)

NEW HAMPSHIRE: Hey Mombo …

NEW HAMPSHIRE: Hey Mombo …

Enticing Fare in Portsmouth

Review by Rosemary Minati

Mombo, 66 Marcy Street, Portsmouth, NH  03801. Telephone:  603-433-2340.

Kitchen opens to restaurant. (Photos courtesy of Mombo.)

Mombo isn’t just a culinary experience. No, this new eatery serves enticing visual fare too. My husband and I fell in love with this restaurant the moment we walked through the door. Located in a charming old  building, it has high-beamed ceilings, cozy seating areas, and a friendly crew,  giving it a warm and inviting feel.

Mombo’s granite bar extends into counter seating, an alternative to traditional table seating, offering guests an up-close-and-personal look into its open kitchen. Steve and I sat there and for our  evening “entertainment” we watched as Lawrence artistically created magnificent appetizers and desserts. He made and then served our cheese platter, offering an explanation of each cheese and its origin.

Mombo cooking. (Photo courtesy of Mombo.)

This restaurant is good for foodies who appreciate interesting spices, flavors and artistic presentation. Steve and I shared each course because everything looked so unique, fresh and tempting. The lobster bisque was creamy and rich. For entrees we chose fresh scallops that were cooked to perfection and a tender Kobe beef filet that was tender and juicy.

Dessert was a rich, dense chocolate torte with raspberries and cream. Chocolate is one of my guilty pleasures and I consider myself a bit of an expert. This did not disappoint and was “to die for.” As coffee lovers, we truly appreciated the individual French press pots of steaming rich coffee that came with dessert.

Chocolate torte. (Photo by Rosemary Minati.)

During our meal, as we enjoyed every morsel we watched as the chefs tested sauces and added ingredients to enhance each dish.  Our server was friendly and did a magnificent job. We will fondly remember this restaurant and will definitely return.

For more information visit: www.momborestaurant.com

Posted in Northeast, Raves and Reviews, Rosemary Minati, U.S. Cuisine & TravelComments (0)

Globalfoodiegal or From the Editor…

Globalfoodiegal or From the Editor…

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Welcome to globalfoodie.com!

August 19, 2010

Yesterday, I made one of my favorite sandwiches. Egg salad with whole grain bread. Then I read about the egg recall. My eggs were not on the recall list, but I threw them away anyway and bought a new dozen. Better safe than salmonella.

Make sure your eggs are not on the list:  www.upi.com/Top_News/US/2010/08/19/US-recall-of-suspect-eggs-widened/UPI-95351282241439/

August 13, 2010

My ricotta and mozzarella cheese-making kit arrived yesterday and I’ve already devoured the instructions, watched videos (thank you Barb Freda) and purchased supplies. My reward, if I finish two stories that have been sitting on the proverbial back burner, is cheese. Maybe I’ll make marinara too. With more time and a little semolina  I’d make pasta. Unfortunately, as we all know, you can have it all — just not at the same time. So,  I’ll report back on Monday and let you know if (and how) the cheese making went … and how well I wrote those stories.

My best to you, –Denise (Globalfoodiegal)

July 30, 2010

The summer is moving too fast for me. How about you? It’s almost August and I’m still in an April/May mode. The blooms are off the perennials and the garden is starting to produce.

July 2010

Yes, it’s been awhile since I posted here. It is becoming easier as I learn to navigate this site. This month Vivienne wrote about Marula trees, Peter Francis Battaglia shared his cooking expertise, Susan McKee served cognac and Rosemary reviewed New Hampshire eatery.

I’ve been traveling, cooking and reading. Quebec City restaurants were memorable — and were matched by Montreal’s exclusive offerings. I must admit Jardin Nelson in Saint Jacques Cartier was probably one of the most impressive dining experiences in the last year. The award-winning gardens, a kitchen that has won awards for its cleanliness and spectacular food made even the hottest day in Montreal more than bearable. I’ll be writing more about Quebec, Montreal and France in the coming months.

My next foray is to Geneva for a new travel show. I’m just the writer behind the camera, but it is fun — and I get to sample food, which gives me fodder for more magazine (and globalfoodie) stories.

Off to finish a deadline. Talk to you soon.

–Denise AKA Globalfoodiegal

August, 2009

Greetings! Our site keeps gettting better and better, so bear with us as we work through the small web-world glitches. We’re writers, so only one side of our brain works. The other side — the one that figures out the cyber universe– is missing a few beats. Even so, we’re moving in the right direction; just a little slowly.

Take a look at a few of our stories. Shannon Hurst Lane’s story, “Grits” is funny and educational. Keith Kellett always keeps me entertained with his UK stories.  His “Aussie Pies” and a visit up Snowdonian’s peak are great, so take a look.  Deston Nokes explains why North Carolina biscuits are so popular in Oregon and Richard Frisbie takes us to the French country side.

There’s more to come. Susan McKee has two stories on deck and Deston promises to tell a few more tales. Rosemary has another book review and is writing about Pamela’s gluten-free products.

There are two winners in our now bi-monthly cookbook contest. Congratulations to Roberta Beach Jacobson, from Greece, and Tera Crain, from Austin, Texas. We’ll get those out as soon as possible.

We are still collecting recipes, so send in whatever you have. Include its history and family ties. Eventually we’ll have our “Recipe Center” up and running.

We’re almost into September and we foodies know that means it’s time to enjoy your local bounty. Peaches, tomatoes, corn-on-the-cob, herbs, lettuce, you name it, your local farmer has it all and more.  Although supermarket offerings are fine, the local farmer’s market or farm stand is the only way to go this time of year.

Talk to you soon,

Globalfoodiegal, Denise


Posted in Denise Dubé, FoodDetails or FoodieTales, GlobalfoodiegalComments (0)

SOUTHERN AFRICA: MARULA TREES AND AMARULA LIQUEUR

SOUTHERN AFRICA: MARULA TREES AND AMARULA LIQUEUR

Savor the Spirit of Africa

Text and photos by Vivienne Mackie

The African continent is home to a variety of fascinating ancient trees and plants, a fact that enhances the mystery and appeal of this continent.

Amarula tree.

One is the Marula Tree, often called “The Great Provider,” because of its many uses. The Marula tree grows naturally in the warm, frost-free regions of southern Africa, especially Botswana, Zimbabwe and South

Although not commercially cultivated the Marula is part of the mango, cashew and pistachio family. Its fruit, which looks like a worn tennis ball, is used for making jam, beer, and wine, and it is the basis for a Amarula Cream Liqueur, one of South Africa’s most successful exports.

The Marula is also known as “hard walnut” from the Greek, refers to the hard stone inside the fleshy fruit. It is a medium sized deciduous tree that has been extremely important to the indigenous Bantu peoples and their migrations for at least 10,000 years, according to archeological evidence. The ripe Marula is the size of a small yellow plum, its fleshy fruit high in vitamin C (more than 4 times that of an average-size orange), the nutty kernel is high in protein and oil, while the bark has medicinal properties that are helpful in malaria prophylaxis, for pain, and for scorpion or snake bites. The inner bark can be used to make rope and the soft wood is good for carving.

Marula fruit.

Held sacred among those who inhabit the region, the Marula tree plays a prominent role in tribal legends. Commonly nicknamed “the Marriage Tree,” it is widely believed to bestow vigor and fertility upon those who marry beneath its branches. Even today, tribal wedding ceremonies occur beneath its branches. The hard stones inside the soft yellow fruit are often dried and strung together in a necklace that traditionally symbolizess love.

During southern Africa’s spring and early summer when the ripe Marula fruit hangs on the tree, animals travel for miles to collect and enjoy their share of this delicious, natural bounty. Warthog, waterbuck, giraffe and kudu all eat the fruit and leaves of the tree, but foremost are the herds of African elephants that have roamed the continent for thousands of years. For this reason, some communities also refer to the Marula tree as the “Elephant Tree.” This age-old relationship between these two African symbols is why both this majestic creature and the Marula tree feature as icons for the Amarula Cream Liqueur.

Amarula Cream Liqueur

A popular centuries-old myth is that elephants and other animals eat the rotting Marula fruit and get intoxicated. It was put to rest by a National Geographic story. (See: http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2005/12/1219_051219_drunk_elephant.html )

Once a year, the Marula tree is responsible for a remarkable event – the annual Marula harvest. Celebrations occur as the bountiful fruit is gathered from across the plains. A single tree can produce over 10,000 fruit.

Here is where the process of making Amarula Cream begins. After it is collected by hand, this lush and exotic pale yellow fruit is pulped and fermented before undergoing slow and careful distillation in copper pot sills. This process further concentrates the flavor of the fruit, yielding the unique-tasting Marula spirit that is then matured for at least two years in small French oak barrels.

When the tasters say that the contents of each barrel are ready, the Marula spirit is blended with the finest, freshest cream. This is final step toward creating this distinctively smooth liqueur. Amarula Cream has been enjoyed by people who live in and visit its native African continent, and in the last decade or so, has become available to other regions, allowing connoisseurs and and the no-so-experienced to discover this unique flavor. Many people have commented that if you like cream liqueurs, then you owe it to yourself to try this one.

There are also wonderful Amarula Cream chocolates, if you’d like to savor the Spirit of Africa in yet another form.

Amarula Cream can be enjoyed on its own, splashed over ice, or in a variety of delectable cocktails. Many locals and visitors love the southern African tradition of “Sundowners.” A splash of Amarula Cream over ice is one perfect way to watch the sun go down in one of Africa’s spectacular sunsets.

For more information:

Amarula Cream, www.amarula.com (You must include a birth date to enter the site).

Posted in FoodDetails or FoodieTales, International Cuisine & Travel, Vivienne MackieComments (0)

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