Cheese, Cream and Fondue

Story and photos by Ron Stern

Located in the Canton of Fribourg, Switzerland, the Medieval town of Gruyères is only a short train ride from Zurich and is the home to some tasty and long-standing traditions.

As you probably know cheese is something that Swiss have pefected for centuries. The House of Gruyère demonstration cheese dairy is the place to see how these master crafstman have been making Gruyère AOC since 1115 AD. The designation AOC is an official mark of quality only awarded to certain products that are native to a particular region. And in this case, the designation is well deserved. The tour involves all the senses and at one station you can smell the flowers (such as orchids) that are fed to the cows to produce just the right kind of milk that then matures to become creamy AOC cheese.

Of course, what would Switzerland be without Fondue and using various recipies that include Gruyere Cheese, you can enjoy lunch right on site while dipping bits of bread and vegetables in this hot and savory, melted cheese delight.

For dessert, you simply have to give way to local custom and try some Gruyère double cream with meringues and fruit. Now let me say that this isn’t your typical cream but a specialty of the region made from the finest Alpine milk that is so rich, thick and creamy that no light can escape from its depths! They serve this in wooden or chocolate cups (I prefer the latter) and then this can be blended into coffee of poured over the aforementioned meringues and fruit. The result is a full sensory immersion into the flavors of Gruyères and one which will linger on your palatte for months to come.

Resources:

www.myswitzerland.com

www.lamaisondugruyere.ch

www.la-gruyere.ch

Ron can be reached at: travelwriter0@comcast.net.

Take six to a dozen different people, from all kinds of backgrounds and varied cooking abilities. Add a French master chef, a skilled sous-chef, one who is also a wine expert, and her husband, who is another wine expert. Blend together in a modernised 200-year-old farmhouse in France’s Languedoc district, serve with walking, cycling, tennis and swimming on the side, and you have the French House Party.

St. Raymond's Gastro Acadamy where we learn to cook.

The French House Party offers a wide range of courses, ranging from video and movie making, through drama and artwork to creative writing. But, their signature dish is probably the Gastro Academy.

There are three cookery courses to choose from; the 7-day Cook au Vin;, the 6-day Gourmet Explorer; and the 3-day Cuisine in Brief, which I attended. But, please be advised, they aren’t intended to turn you into a gourmet cook overnight. It’s a pity experience is the only appropriate word I can think of.

Chef Robert Abraham ready to teach us some of what he knows.

Chopping and creating our masterpieces.

But, before I get carried away by the relaxing Art Deco atmosphere of the dining-room, sitting room and bedrooms, I’d better talk about the kitchen which, of course, would be the main focus of our business. After lunch on the first day, we were briefly introduced to it, to help to make amuses-bouche, which sounds a lot nicer than nibbles,  to go with our pre-dinner apéritif.

The kitchen is long, with a central table running down the middle, with provisions  for taller (or shorter) people to take part without too much discomfort. It was only recently refurbished, and gasps of admiration and envy greeted it. And, I have an idea that some of those features might shortly be adopted in the kitchens of the participants.

Before dinner, the chef de cuisine, Robert Abraham, introduced himself. He would, he said, be overseeing our cooking on the morrow, but first, we needed ingredients. In the morning, we would accompany him to the market in Revel to buy them.

The chef manages to find the market's best.

Up to a year ago, I thought that the idea of the chef going to the market and personally selecting ingredients was a fiction put about by the makers of TV food programmes. But, in the last twelve months, I’ve met two chefs who did just that, so I’m happy to stand corrected.

Unfortunately, my French isn’t good enough to understand the discussion — maybe even haggling — that went on between Chef Robert and the stallholders, but we came away with basketfuls of provisions that could have been entered in a competition in any County Show at home in the UK.

So, with all the people and ingredients assembled, we were ready to begin cooking. We had three sessions, prepared three meals and, for the sake of brevity, I’ll just talk about the main courses. Under the eye of Chef Robert, we all took part; some to a greater extent than others. I thought back to basic training days, when I’d sit down to a meal, and think, with pride, “I peeled those potatoes!”

For lunch on the first day, we had duck breasts with apples reinette. The apples were baked with lemon juice, honey, butter, pepper and cinnamon; the duck cooked in Noilly Prat and served in slices. It was covered with a sauce made from apple juice and the juiced the duck was cooked in.

Our plated duck and apple slices with Noilly Prat and sauce.

Dinner was St. Jacques scallops served with orange butter sauce and parsnips. I used to think I didn’t like parsnips, but I changed my mind when I tasted these. The main learning point, though, was getting the edible bit out of the scallop. Weretained the shells, to serve a seafood starter for the the following lunch.

The main course on that occasion was monkfish rouelle, served with new potatoes and a tartine of a slice of fried aubergine (that’s eggplant, to my transatlantic readers) topped with a sauce of mussels and shallots.

We also helped to make starters and sweets too numerous to mention here, except that everyone enthused about the crême brulée and the madeleines.

No French meal would be complete without the wine, and here, wine expert Carl Hargreaves came to the fore. He selected wines he thought would go best with each course and he and his wife, sous-chef Debbie, held a wine-tasting just prior to our departure.

My favourite was the Muscat served before the first dinner. It’s said that Dom Perignon visited the area, and refined the recipe for Muscat into champagne.

We all enjoy a little wine talk -- and the wine.

And, a misconception about French cooking was also corrected. I’d missed it, but it wasn’t till the end, on the way back to the airport, that director Moira Martingale pointed out that, at no point in the weekend did Robert use garlic.

In 2008, the French House Party was named ‘Top Learning Retreat’ in the National Geographic book “100 Best Worldwide Vacations to Enrich Your Life.” Cooking is by no means all that goes on there. Find out much more at

www.frenchhouseparty.co.uk

By Richard Frisbie

Chocolate Bliss written by Susie Norris
Subtitled: Sensuous recipes, spa treatments, and other divine indulgences.
ISBN #978-1-58761-347-0 $16.99 Hardcover

I know, I know. What is a guy well-known for his disdain for desserts, especially chocolate desserts, doing reviewing a book on chocolate?  Well, ask yourself – who could be more objective, a chocolate lover, or me?  I’m open to new ideas and ways of thinking, and I’m always willing to research the other side of a position.  In this case, I’m glad I did.

Chocolate Bliss looks like a light book – almost fluffily frivolous – in its cute 7” square size and color photos. I was not prepared for the comprehensive, informative text or the engaging writing style of the author.  Chocolate Bliss is much more than it appears.

To quote the author, Susie Norris, in her introduction:  “I am a pastry chef, chocolatier, culinary school teacher, and snickers bar sneaker.”  Right away she establishes her credentials, interest and sense of humor. I was hooked!

The book is divided into four information packed segments; each dealing with a different aspect of chocolate, and each ending in a collection of recipes.
I - Good Taste – Exploring your favorite chocolates
. . . is an explanation of the different elements of chocolate’s taste, with definitions, websites, techniques for tastings, history and a list of great books of chocolate recipes. Then Susie Norris presents “sensuous recipes: from bonbons to fondue”
II – Health and Beauty – How chocolate helps you inside and out
. . . explains how chocolate is good for you – as a health food, as a vitamin, and for your blood, heart, skin, teeth and brain. The relevant scientific studies are discussed, their findings and supporters examined, and advice on how to control your cravings is given.  She finishes with “healthy recipes: from snacks to skin care.”
III – Good Works – How you can help chocolate
. . . is a vivid account of how chocolate grows, including the importance of preserving the environment it grows in, as well as saving the way of life of the 50 million people involved in its harvesting and distribution worldwide. Throughout this you’re given the fair-trade and organic chocolate argument with sound reasons to follow it.  She then includes “earthy recipes: from chili to cheesecake.”
IV – Share the Love – the gift of chocolate
. . . begins with the Aztec myths to explain how chocolate’s perception as a “gift of the gods” continues through the Holidays and celebrations of today. Halloween, Christmas, Hanukkah, Valentine’s Day, Easter – even Birthdays and Weddings - each has a chocolate tradition whose history is examined. The author then offers “gifting recipes: from cupcakes to white chocolate roses.”

Did You Know . . .
Ninety-eight percent of women have food cravings, as do 68 percent of men?

Chocolate generates an estimated $80 billion annual international income?

Chocolate is the third largest global commodity behind sugar and coffee?

Cocoa butter melts at around 91 degrees?

An ounce of very dark chocolate every day is healthy medicine?

Throughout the pages pithy and humorous quotes are included from literature, famous chefs, and cookbook authors. Facts and factoids from chemistry to history are also used to help reinforce the text. Chocolate Bliss is fun to read!

As for Chocolate Bliss as a cookbook, each of the attractively illustrated recipes is presented in a clear and logical manner. Methods, tips for success, and shortcuts are included in detail with the reasoning behind them. Whenever a specialized ingredient is given, it is defined, and shopping information and brand recommendations are given. It is clear that the author is a culinary instructor. She really knows how to make following the recipes easy.

I liked this book! In fact, I liked it so much I went to my local health food store and bought a bag of organic cocoa nibs* to add to the Chocolate Sugar Dough recipe (page 132) for the tart crust (page 59) for my Thanksgiving cheese cake. I told you I could keep an open mind!

*cocoa nibs are pure cocoa beans that have been fermented, hulled, roasted, and cracked, but not ground, to a paste. They have a nut-like crunch. (There are 8 references to cocoa nibs in the index.)

Chocolate Bliss by Susie Norris
Subtitled: Sensuous recipes, spa treatments, and other divine indulgences.
ISBN #978-1-58761-347-0 150 pages Hardcover $16.99
http://www.crownpublishing.com

By Maureen Costello

My niece called me out of the blue last January inviting me on a world tour of all the ethnic restaurants at Epcot Center.

Alison and me with the staff at the Marrakash. We're the shorter ones in the middle.

As an employee of Disney-owned ESPN, Alison is a “cast member,” meaning she receives significant discounts at each of the Walt Disney empires.

“I remember you said you always wanted to try all the restaurants at Epcot Center,” she said referring to the 11 restaurants that make up the park’s World Showcase. “I’m going to make that dream come true for you.”

I do not remember expressing that specifically to Alison, though I have been quite vocal about that idea since I first visited Walt Disney World 11 years earlier. I am beyond flattered to know that Alison was listening.

We only had three full days to sample something from every country represented. Some restaurants such as Canada’s, Le Cellier Steakhouse, was only open for dinner. None serve breakfast. We needed to accommodate six, maybe seven meals. Some stops would have to be snacks. I should also mention that though we had a discount toward food, Alison, 23, has yet to accumulate a salary comparable to those whose sports highlights she readies for Sports Center. I am hardly better off so finances were essential to factor in especially as dinner entrees could easily run $37 apiece – not including dessert.

You don’t need to be a foodie to benefit from Epcot Center’s World Showcase, even if it is only for an afternoon. The theme park giant goes over the top to represent the culture, food, music, dance, art, history and, in some instances, even the plant life of Mexico, Norway, China, Germany, Italy, the USA, Japan, Morocco, France, United Kingdom and Canada. Employees of these venues are frequently young adults from their native land working at Disney on a one-year Visa. The program works well for both. Disney guests learn about the culture directly from someone born and raised there, and the worker learns about America both through their work at Epcot and field trips to cities such as New York and Chicago, which Disney organizes.

Top chefs and gourmet selections require guests make dinner reservations months in advance at Walt Disney World’s Signature Dining restaurants. Though we were four months away from our trip, I grabbed the only seating available for Restaurant Marrakesh, which features authentic Moroccan cuisine. I struck out with the rest for dinner until I secured a table for Bistro de Paris. I then reserved the last available table at Coral Reef Restaurant, a seafood restaurant that is in Epcot, but not part of the showcase.

The Maya Grill at the Coronado Springs Resort, where we were staying, is owned by the San Angel Inn Restaurante in Epcot’s Mexico showcase. The grill served buffet breakfasts only, but we decided its Latin culture and flavors would be representative of San Angel, where I had enjoyed dinner years before. I had also eaten at Le Cellier, and we could not get reservations anyway. Alison’s goal was to wean off of chicken fingers, burgers and fries, the dominant menu items at The American Adventure, so it was scratched.

The months pass and we were finally at JFK when Alison confided that she has never tasted an olive. Fortunately we were flying Jet Blue which boasts the trendy Re:vive restaurants at the gates. We split a lunch of fresh mozzarella with olive tapenade, fresh basil between two slices of toasted ciabetta. One bite and Alison’s olive deficiency was remedied.

The in-flight snack was nothing to write home (or here) about. But once settled into the resort, we walked over to the bar to sample a mojito. Alison exclaimed that the big news at ESPN was that the bartender by the pool at Coronado Springs Resort made the best mojito ever. A flight delay meant we got to the bar minutes before it closed. We forgot the bartender’s name and our camera, but admit his was a refreshingly sweet and minty mojito, with just enough rum to take the edge off of knowing our luggage had yet to arrive.

The following is a quick pictorial show of the meals my niece and I shared during our three-day “world tour.”

Alison is eating a fresh toasted mozzarella and olive tapenade sandwich at re: vive, a bar situated at every few Jet Blue terminals.

Our first stop at Disney was the Marrakash, Epcot's upscale Moroccan restaurant. Our main course was a lemon-pepper roasted chicken leg and roasted lamb shank sandwiching the most succulant couscous with steamed vegetables. Our wine is Beni M'tir , a dry, full-bodied red with fragrances of almond, citrus peel, orange marmalade, fig cinnamon and mint. The grapes were grown in Morocco's Amazigh region.

This tiny lemon tree growing beside our table reminded me of the blossoming lemon plants beside another table in Splendida, Portofino, Italy.

We are at Tutto Italia on a blue-skied 89-degree Florida afternoon. Alison is having a chilled 2007 Rose Centine ($7) with her asparagus salad.

We did not leave Italy without sampling vanilla bean gelatto sandwiched between light pastry and drizzled with warm milk chocolate sauce. We were not above pouring the leftover chocolate onto spoons and devouring it.

Here we are in Norway enjoying a midafternoon snack of fresh strawberry and black raspberry tart at Kringla's, $3.99. On the side is a frosty Bailey's coffee. Sandwiches here, which we did not have, include salmon, egg and red onion on multigrain bread.

Alison's first sushi meal (and definitely not her last!) was served at Tokyo Dining. This sampler features tuna, yellowtail shrimp and California rolls. Keeping with tradition, we each had a shot of Junmai sake, brewed from the waters of Mt. Tenzan, part of the Saga Perfecture, which is in Northwestern Japan.

The Country Style Meat plate, the first of two appetizers we had at Bistro de Paris, consisted of homemade pate, beef croquette, duck rillette and smoked duck magret.

The duck breast, polenta galette with raisin, artichoke and sun choke purse verjus sauce. Verjus sauce is combination of squeezed unripe grapes, herbs and spices.

Our second appetizer, escargot and mushroom cassolette with parsely butter, frog leg fritters and watercress veloute. A veloute sauce is one of four traditional French sauces. It means velvety and is made of equal parts butter and flour mixed with a stock of either chicken, veal or fish bones.

Alison struck gold with the Atlantic red snapper with calmari Basquaise style, rice and squid ink.

I had the warm and frozen Grand-Marnier souffle. The chocolate cake was warm and filled with a warm chocolate pudding. On the side is a shot of Grand Marnier and the spoon is a single serving of gourmet French white chocolate. I hated to share.

Les desserts! Alison tops off her snapper and squid meal with a mouthwatering serving of vanilla creme brulee, caramelized rice pudding, upside down caramel cream and a scoop of creme brulee ice cream. One bite and she realized a dessert needn't be chocolate to be delectable.

Le Saout Yoann prepared crepes duo Suzette at our table.

e shared an appetizer of General Tso's chicken steamed dumplings beneath a warm Chinese red sauce with a side of scallions and cilantro at Nine Dragons.

A cook prepares my Southwest omelet.

Fresh bread at the Pepper Market.

By Rosemary Minati

One of my fondest memories as a German American child is of  my father biting into a frankfurter, sauerkraut juice running down his long, thin arms. “Sauerkraut was the one vegetable we ate with every meal,” my father recalled of his own childhood. It is true, my grandmother loved sauerkraut. I think she even had it with her breakfast. I didn’t understand this as a child, but ate it because I was told to clear my plate or, according to German folklore, it would rain. No questions asked.

Once, my parents tried to make their very own batch in a large stone crock in our garage. I would suggest you skip that project and just buy a can. It will save at least a month’s worth of work. Over the years I have grown to love sauerkraut. Just the smell of it cooking evokes warm memories of my dad and his mom. My family recipe just might change the way you eat hot dogs and sauerkraut.

My father’s favorite meal was all beef German hot dogs slathered with sauerkraut. It was simple and tasty. It wasn’t just any sauerkraut; it was cooked with sautéed onions and bacon. My mom will tell you that it is very important to rinse your sauerkraut with cool water three times. I don’t know why three is the magic number, but I know when my mother tells you to do something, you just do it. Why, because she’s one of the best cooks I know.

When my parents left Long Island and moved near m in New York’s Westchester county, my dad would send me to Karl Ehmer’s store, in Yorktown Heights to buy two dozen extra long hot dogs. German treats from this small jam-packed store were inevitably added to the order. Dark chocolate covered marzipan, potato dumpling mix, deli mustard, and braunschweiger are always stuffed into my shopping bag.

Once home, the first step is separating the twisted casings between the long ropes of frankfurters. The sauerkraut must cook for about one-half hour to blend the flavors. According to another one of my mother’s rules the hot dog rolls must be warmed in the oven. As a purist, my dad believed that the frankfurter needed nothing but the roll and the sauerkraut. To his dismay, I always want mustard and relish on mine. I was never that fond of hot dogs growing up, so I felt the need to hide the taste.

I have since learned to love this simple meal and especially the flavor of the cooked sauerkraut my father loved so much. This down-to-earth, delicious meal is served in my home now – but not for breakfast.

Kurt’s Sauerkraut

1 can or 1 package fresh sauerkraut
4 slices bacon
1 small onion
water

Drain sauerkraut in a colander and rinse with cool water three times. Chop the onions and bacon and put in a frying pan. Sauté until onions are soft and the bacon starts turning brown. Add the drained and rinsed sauerkraut to the bacon and onion mixture and stir. Add enough water to almost cover sauerkraut and cook until it all begins to boil. Turn down heat and simmer for about 30 minutes.

Rosemary can be reached at: Rosemary@globalfoodie.com.

By Susan McKee

Long distance travel requires steel wings and an engine; throw in a few boats and you’ve pretty much exhausted the transportation options. For trips involving distance, taking to the air is a necessity.

One advantage to travel writing is obvious –traveling. Of course, that’s one of the disadvantages as well. When
you’re traveling, you’re not where you’re going, and you’ve left where you’ve been. Transit time is a state of suspended animation.

Take getting to Malaysia; it’s on
the other side of the earth from where I live. East or west it’s still 23 hours
in the air. I flew from Newark to Kuala Lumpur, so the plane stopped in “Dubai to
refuel.

An hour or so in that international airport terminal is just enough time to ogle the jewelry and designer shops and send a postcard. Then it’s back on board to endure the tedium – dropping off to sleep, waking and reading for a bit, then dozing off again.

There’s not much to do other than watch videos when you’re stuck in steerage. Most overseas flights these days have individual television screens, even in coach. But, the choices are often inane, and how many times can you watch the same episodes of popular television sitcoms? I find myself tuning into the map charting the plane’s progress.

Sometimes that’s a mistake.

A recent flight home from Paris to Chicago required a
stopover in Cincinnati. I watched the plane make a 180° turn as it traversed Ohio. We’d been sent away from the airport and were in a holding pattern because earlier airplanes were stacked ahead trying to land in rainy weather (FYI: that’s really bad news when you’re already behind schedule).

Suddenly, there was a sharp, swift sound between a pop and a bang. It was accompanied by a blinding white light. We’d been hit by lightening! The pilot came on the public announcement system to explain, “everything was OK.” I watched the map as we did another about face. Finally we were in the front of the line to land. (Oh, and by the way, I still missed my connecting flight.)

Giant airplanes with hundreds of passengers aren’t the only method of getting around in the air. In the U.S. Virgin Islands, I took a pontoon plane to get from St. Thomas to St. Croix. In Britain, I boarded a 25-seater Sikorski helicopter to get from Penzance to the Isles of Scilly. Outside Melbourne, Australia, I went up in a hot air balloon.

Pontoon planes are hybrids; they land and take off from water. Usually the cockpit is tiny – four cramped seats, and when the engine’s going, it’s very noisy. Both passengers and pilot wear headsets to communicate aloft.

Sightseeing is especially good from pontoon planes, though, because they fly so slowly at such low altitudes. I had a glimpse of the disappearing wetlands along the Gulf Shore of Louisiana. I net a bird’s eye view of the brilliant fall foliage around Maine’s Moosehead Lake in a similar aircraft.

Helicopters come in all sorts and sizes. The Sikorski in England was huge, built originally for military use and reconditioned to fly regularly scheduled service to the islands off Land’s End. The sightseeing helicopter I boarded in Daytona Beach, Fla., seated
just four; but the views of the Atlantic coast and the Daytona Motor Speedway
were terrific.

Hot air balloons are another kind of flight altogether. It’s hard to imagine how they were ever considered as an efficient means of transportation, but they’re great for a morning or evening excursion. Up in the heavens it’s very quiet – except for the occasional roar of the flames let loose to heat the air to keep everything aloft. Of course,
direction is somewhat dependent on the wind, but with a good chase crew on the
ground, all turns out well.

Over the years, I have learned some coping strategies for long airplane flights. I never carry on board more than a backpack that stuffs under the seat in front of me (I don’t want to wrestle with stowing a heavy wheeled case in an overhead bin).

In that backpack, I carry my essentials – the things I positively cannot do without when I land, including an extra pair of contact lenses, my laptop, a paperback book and my notebook, my itinerary, medicine, camera and batteries.

Because I try to sleep as much as I can on the plane, I don’t need many toys in my bag. A bottle of water is essential even though I now have to buy it past security (unless the kindly TSAagent lets me take an empty bottle through security. Snacks are essential and trail mix works best for me. And I don’t forget to walk around occasionally and do
leg exercises to minimize the chances of circulation problems while aloft.

Fortunately, I forget the agonies of travel once I get off the plane. No matter how tedious the flight, how annoying my seatmates, how unappetizing (or expensive) the food or how dehydrating the cabin, I still look forward to my next trip.

After all, it’s only been a century since humans took wing.

Susan McKee can be reached at: Susan@globalfoodie.com

By Keith Kellett

Since English isn’t the first language in Tunisia, I thought it might be a prolific hunting ground for my Silly Signs, which I collect, photograph and occasionally post in my blog (see information below). No such luck. The only one I saw was from a bus, and we were gone before I could photograph it.

My luck changed later when we were passing through a Berber village.  I saw a restaurant promising “Authentic Barbaric Food.” Well, the two words come from the same root, anyway!

But, we didn’t have to stray far from food to finally find something. One night, we went to a “Traditional Tunisian Banquet.” where wine was served.

Now, although Tunisia is a Muslim country, alcohol is readily available, and, in fact, beer and wine are produced in country. Grapes for wine are grown in Tunisia, rather than them making wine from imported grape concentrate, as they sometimes do elsewhere. The centre of wine production is at Mornag, a little way to the south of Tunis. They produce reds, whites and rosés, and the result is … well, I wouldn’t go out of my way to seek any, but I’ll drink it if it’s offered.

I do think they might have been a little more careful with the name, though! As Oliver Hardy might have said:

“This is another Vin de Mess you’ve gotten me into, Stanley!”

Keith can be reached at Keith@globalfoodie.com. To see more of his work visit his blog: travelrat.wordpress.com/

The Young Man and the Sea
Recipes & Crispy Fish Tales from Esca
By David Pasternack and Ed Levine
Published Artisan 2007, New York, NY

By Rosemary Minati

Last month, after a hectic weekday, I ran into the supermarket in search of the perfect fish.  As usual, the choices were daunting.  I always seek the advice of the guy behind the counter and choose based on his recommendation.  That’s why I finally decided to go to the bookstore and learn how to make an educated decision — on my own. Yes, I want to know what fish is freshest, wild or farmed, but I don’t want my evening meal based on some guy’s preferences.

I discovered The Young Man & the Sea; Recipes and Crispy Fish Tales by Pasternack. My first reaction was surprise as I breezed through the pages. There is only a short lists of ingredients for each Italian-based recipe. I was not intimidated and realized most items are easily found in my local supermarket.  Page 13  offered “Dave’s Tuna Advice.” Pasternack not only describes what to look for, but lists six different tunas.  Who knew there were so many choices beyond fresh or canned albacore in traditional oil or water?   He includes recipes for tuna meatballs, tuna Bolognese, or Ventresca tuna salad, and more.

Pasternack offers advice on shrimp, tentacles, scallops, and how to fillet a whole fish.  The book contains more than 100 recipes and is guaranteed to make your mouth water.

Pictures of Pasternack beside a well-used fishing pole, his sturdy rubber boots, waiting at the back of a boat are fascinating. Some of his buddies are pictured as well, including “Tommy Crab,” who he describes as the “Ed Norton of the crustacean world.”  These tidbits make for interesting reading.

This fish tale was written after Ed Levine approached Pasternack in Esca, his New York City restaurant. He successfully he urged Pasternack to publish his recipes.

Fast forward a week after I finished the book. I planned to make fresh grilled tuna for dinner. Now I know how.

I confidently stepped up to the fish counter, smiled and said,  “Excuse me, but is that tuna  yellowfin or Bonita?”

Rosemary can be reached at Rosemary@globalfoodie.com.

Denise Reynolds, Sip & Savor Columnist

Extreme Wine.

Dirt-eating Gary Vaynerchuk unearths this year’s wine winners.

GARY VAYNERCHUK’s

101 WINES Guaranteed to Inspire, Delight, and Bring Thunder to Your World

Gary Vaynerchuk is a man possessed.  With a galactic palate and a brash sensibility, the 32-year-old kid from New Jersey is changing the wine world, whether they like it or not.  He gets down and dirty—convincing Conan O’Brien to lick salted rocks and sharing samples of dirt and grass with Ellen Degeneres, all in the name of “expanding one’s palate.”  Gary’s Internet show on www.WineLibrary.tv has attracted a cult-like following of more than 80,000 viewers a day.  His irreverent online wine reviews have given birth to Vaynerchuk’s first book.  Wonder if the thunder rolls between the pages?

It not only rolls, it rocks.

Studded with wines made from lesser-known regions like Israel, Greece, and Lebanon, Vaynerchuk’s tasting notes grab you by the scruff of the neck and shake you to the core.  Popular favorites like Aussie Shiraz get a makeover: “It’s fake, but not overly fake. It’s sort of like a really good boob job, where you don’t have the scary face-lift and bleached hair and January tan.” Describing an Oregon Pinot Noir, Vaynerchuk says, “This wine has some burnt tire aromas.  Remember when you were a kid and you would have a skidding contest on your BMX bike to see who could lay out the longest skid mark on the street?  That smell is in here.”

Strewn throughout are Vaynercabulary words that Gary uses to redefine wine.  Workman’s wine, he says, “shows structure, strength, and power…matches well with hearty foods; it’s the type of wine you enjoy after a day on the tractor.”  Bonus boxes highlight Palate Primers—including Raisinets and Jolt Cola—used to convey the essence of flavor components for Amarone and Chianti.

Heavy on good quality to price ratio (QPR) wines like a $9 Tempranillo from Spain that he would ”pair with chicken wings, pizza, Italian subs, or an In-N-Out burger,” Vaynerchuk’s picks also include some hard to find big ticket items like a $215 Rioja, which he rationalizes by saying, “if there was ever a reason to miss a car payment, this is it.”  Bubblies and dessert wines, often underrepresented minorities, are given their due.  “These wines are so over-the-top with sugar, you throw a few into your daily wine tasting and suddenly it’s like going to Mardi Gras instead of happy hour, like the fifty-yard line at the Super Bowl instead of Monday night on the couch.”

Then there’s Vaynerchuk’s description of a Picolit from Friuli, Italy.  “This wine makes you want to put on the Barry White and lap it off someone’s belly.  It’s that good, and that gorgeous, and that memorable, and you need to find it.”  Find it, indeed.  Vaynerchuk’s book is a worthy addition to your wine library.

Denise Reynolds writes about wine, South Florida destinations, luxury travel and spas. She can be reached at Goddessofwine@globalfoodie. Visit her other sites at: www.denisereynolds.com, www.completelyfabulous.com.

August 25, 2009

Greetings! Our site keeps gettting better and better, so bear with us as we work through the small web-world glitches. We’re writers, so only one side of our brain works. The other side — the one that figures out the cyber universe– is missing a few beats. Even so, we’re moving in the right direction; just a little slowly.

Take a look at a few of our stories. Shannon Hurst Lane’s story, “Grits” is funny and educational. Keith Kellett always keeps me entertained with his UK stories.  His “Aussie Pies” and a visit up Snowdonian’s peak are great, so take a look.  Deston Nokes explains why North Carolina biscuits are so popular in Oregon and Richard Frisbie takes us to the French country side.

There’s more to come. Susan McKee has two stories on deck and Deston promises to tell a few more tales. Rosemary has another book review and is writing about Pamela’s gluten-free products.

There are two winners in our now bi-monthly cookbook contest. Congratulations to Roberta Beach Jacobson, from Greece, and Tera Crain, from Austin, Texas. We’ll get those out as soon as possible.

We are still collecting recipes, so send in whatever you have. Include its history and family ties. Eventually we’ll have our “Recipe Center” up and running.

We’re almost into September and we foodies know that means it’s time to enjoy your local bounty. Peaches, tomatoes, corn-on-the-cob, herbs, lettuce, you name it, your local farmer has it all and more.  Although supermarket offerings are fine, the local farmer’s market or farm stand is the only way to go this time of year.

Talk to you soon,

Denise

May/June 2009

Welcome to globalfoodie.com!