Alevropita (A Saveur Feta Tart)
By RICHARD FRISBIE
Sometimes a recipe just jumps off the page at me. It’s as if it were one of those Mad Men era Virginia Slims commercials: “Taste Me, Taste Me.” That’s what happened while I was reading the current issue of Saveur magazine. First, there was an article about “congealed salads.” They didn’t call them that, of
course. That’s what we called them back when those Virginia Slim cigarettes used to dance across the TV screen. Everything old is new again. The recipe for “Paradise” salad, which first appeared in a 1931 Knox gelatin magazine, is reprised in a recent issue of Saveur with a stunning photograph. I just had to make it. The real appeal, besides nostalgia for my lost youth, is that the salad is easy to make. I had all the ingredients, and it could become a lunch staple where I work. (I’m always on the lookout for tasty, unusual salads that are easy and keep well. This one looked perfect.) It’s a simple enough recipe. Shred some cabbage, chop a green pepper, some celery and pimentos. Mix gelatin, cold water, lemon juice, salt and rice vinegar. The recipe calls for ½ cup sugar, but I’d cut that in half. Heat the liquid to dissolve everything, cool and stir in the vegetables. Pour the lot into a greased mold. Refrigerate. Unmold.

Paradise Sale, a beautiful, yellowish/clear gelatin with red and green vegetables in it; quite tasty and beautiful to look at. I can see why gelatin salads will become popular again. Check out that recipe. (Photo by Richard Frisbie.)

The issue also contains an entire article on Greek food. I’m tentatively scheduled for a Greek press trip this fall, so any articles on the food and wine of Greece are research for me. Besides, I’m fascinated with Greek culture, I’ve always wanted to go to there. The author describes the experience of first encountering the dish, alevropita, at an inn. It was served as a meze, or small taste, but was such a transcendent culinary experience that he persuaded the innkeeper to give him the recipe. The whole article carefully documents how she made the complete dish for him, all the ingredients and times, so he’d know how to do it himself. The innkeeper used the Greek equivalent of grappa, incorporated some of the feta in the simple egg batter, and topped it with a
sprinkling of paprika. The result was a thin crispy tart. The photograph made it look fantastically delicious. When it finally came time to recreate the recipe, something happened to the authenticity after the editors got their hands on it. Instead of a round pan that was the correct size for the ingredients, an 18 inch rectangular pan was listed. Vodka replaced the grappa, but if you hadn’t read the article you wouldn’t know that. Water called for in the recipe wasn’t listed in the ingredients. All the feta was sprinkled on top of the mix in the pan, which was too big to keep the edges from being too thin and burning. There was no paprika suggested. It may sound as if I’m complaining. I’m not. I’m simply pointing out the differences between what the innkeeper made and what the editors wrote; the authentic dish versus the modern equivalent. Once you’ve read both you can decide which way you want to make it. I used the recipe (against my better judgment) because I believe in following the recipe the first time, then making the changes my tastebuds and my eyes tell me are necessary. Next time I’m definitely using a slightly smaller pan, some grappa instead of vodka, and I will incorporate some feta in the mix before sprinkling
the rest on top. We’ll see about the paprika.

(Photo by Richard Frisbie.)

This recipe looks could be the base for any number of delicious hors d’oeuvres. Substituting a seasoned feta and adding caramelized onions, chopped
chives, black olives, or garlic would add dimensions to please both the nose and the eye before beginning to saveur (sic;) the taste. Spreading an olivada or pesto on top would deliciously compound the flavors. This recipe is definitely a keeper. I can’t wait to play with it. Get the current issue of Saveur Magazine for these and other recipes you can have fun with.

(Photo by Richard Frisbie.)

Enticing Fare in Portsmouth

Review by Rosemary Minati

Mombo, 66 Marcy Street, Portsmouth, NH  03801. Telephone:  603-433-2340.

Kitchen opens to restaurant. (Photos courtesy of Mombo.)

Mombo isn’t just a culinary experience. No, this new eatery serves enticing visual fare too. My husband and I fell in love with this restaurant the moment we walked through the door. Located in a charming old  building, it has high-beamed ceilings, cozy seating areas, and a friendly crew,  giving it a warm and inviting feel.

Mombo’s granite bar extends into counter seating, an alternative to traditional table seating, offering guests an up-close-and-personal look into its open kitchen. Steve and I sat there and for our  evening “entertainment” we watched as Lawrence artistically created magnificent appetizers and desserts. He made and then served our cheese platter, offering an explanation of each cheese and its origin.

Mombo cooking. (Photo courtesy of Mombo.)

This restaurant is good for foodies who appreciate interesting spices, flavors and artistic presentation. Steve and I shared each course because everything looked so unique, fresh and tempting. The lobster bisque was creamy and rich. For entrees we chose fresh scallops that were cooked to perfection and a tender Kobe beef filet that was tender and juicy.

Dessert was a rich, dense chocolate torte with raspberries and cream. Chocolate is one of my guilty pleasures and I consider myself a bit of an expert. This did not disappoint and was “to die for.” As coffee lovers, we truly appreciated the individual French press pots of steaming rich coffee that came with dessert.

Chocolate torte. (Photo by Rosemary Minati.)

During our meal, as we enjoyed every morsel we watched as the chefs tested sauces and added ingredients to enhance each dish.  Our server was friendly and did a magnificent job. We will fondly remember this restaurant and will definitely return.

For more information visit: www.momborestaurant.com

Tickling my Inner Caveman

By Deston Nokes

Channelling Deston's Inner Caveman.

Rarely have I felt so conflicted on how to begin eating such a gorgeous mountain of lamb, pears and shallots. My inner Fred Flintstone wanted to grab the leg bone and gnaw with unrestrained relish, but the sophisticated ambiance of Portland’s Lauro Kitchen (www.laurokitchen.com), and my refined dinner companions kept my primitive urges in check.

We gathered to enjoy Braised Lamb Shank with Caramelized Pears and Shallots, which was created by Lauro Kitchen’s executive chef Jennifer Buehler. She recently received national acclaim for her artistry by the Pear Bureau Northwest. Chef Buehler is serving her winning recipe at Lauro Kitchen throughout March.

Our meal started with Cataplana, a tasty Portuguese seafood dish of roasted mussels, choriso, peppers, tomatoes and onions; finished in the Lauro Kitchen’s blue tile oven.

The lamb entrée came on a bed of couscous and was framed by carmelized red Anjou pears and shallots. Each bite of the tender meat brought a mouth-watering rush of spicy sweetness.

Braised lamb shank with carmelized pears and shallots. Photo courtesy of Pears Bureau Northwest.

“It’s a Moroccan dish,” Buehler said. “I just strive to do the traditional dishes right – it’s not about fusion cuisine. The pears do provide a Pacific Northwest influence, and the tanginess is from the cranberries. The nutty flavor is from almonds and there are hints of saffron, ginger and cinnamon.

“I want the diners to wonder what they’re tasting. As you eat the dish, the different robust and sweet flavors are revealed.”

The lamb shank certainly was enough to capture the fancy of the Pear Bureau’s judges.

“It struck us as the quintesstial spring entree,” says Kevin Moffitt, president and CEO of Pear Bureau Northwest. “Her pairing of savory braised lamb shanks with sweet, carmelized pears is one of the best ways to enjoy a pear this spring.”

The recipe’s emphasis on pears is a natural for the region since Oregon and Washington pears account for 89 percent of the nation’s pears. The fruit’s primary plucking season is in August, but they are available year round. For more about the region’s pear industry, go to www.pearpanache.com.

Lauro Kitchen.

Chef de Cuisine Jennifer Buehler has been cooking since she was a child in Independence, Missouri. After a quick stint in computer sales, Buehler returned to the kitchen, graduating from the Western Culinary Institute in Portland, Ore.

With Lauro Kitchen’s Mediterranean cuisine, Buehler can draw upon many different styles and ingredients to create elegant masterpieces. Started in 2003 by famed Portland chef and restaurant entrepreneur David Machado, the Lauro Kitchen was one of the first establishments to kick off Portland’s east side dining craze.

“David was always a downtown guy, operating Pazzo’s and Southpark, but he believed he could succeed by bringing the same high-end cuisine, with lower prices, to the east-side neighborhoods,” said Lindsey McBride, Portland food publicist.

“Years ago, we had very few dining options. One had to go downtown for a nice night out.”

(Lauro Kitchen is known for its hour of happiness menu Monday through Sunday from 5 – 6 p.m., which features select dishes at 2003 prices. The restaurant’s towering chalkboard also lists new specials each day: A special pizza, fresh fish, cocktails and dessert. Lauro Kitchen’s dedicated pastry chef, Nancy Forrest, absolutely blew us away with a chocolate caramel tart topped with sprinkles of sea salt. )

For more information:

Lauro Kitchen

3377 SE Division #106

Portland, OR 97202
Telephone: 503.239.7000

www.laurokitchen.com

About the author:??Deston Nokes wrote a new iPhone app: PORTLAND ESSENTIALS. It highlights the best things to see, do and eat in Portland. With 210 entries and more than 1,500 photos, it’s a delicious resource for those who live here, and for those coming to visit. Entries are listed by category and each links to a Web site and phone number. It includes cost and operating-hour information. Best of all, each has its own GPS to guide you right to the door. This new application is for sale on iTunes for only $2.99.

Braised Lamb Shank with Caramelized Pears and Shallots
by Chef de Cuisine Jennifer Buehler

SERVES 4 to 6

Braise

4         lamb shanks, preferably raised in Oregon, 16 to 20-ounces each

2         tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1         medium onion, roughly chopped

1         tablespoon finely chopped garlic

2         tablespoons finely chopped or grated fresh ginger

1-1/2   teaspoons saffron

1-1/2   teaspoons ground cinnamon

1-1/2   teaspoons ground ginger

1-1/2   teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1/2      teaspoon cayenne pepper

4         bay leaves

1         cinnamon stick

1/2      cup whole almonds

2         quarts chicken stock

1/2      cup dried cranberries

Caramelized Pears and Shallots

1         ounces (2 tablespoons) unsalted butter

1         tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

8         small, whole shallots

2         Bosc pears, peeled, cored and sliced into 1/2″-thick wedges

1/4      cup granulated sugar

Couscous, as accompaniment

Parsley, to garnish

Plain yogurt, served on side

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Prepare the lamb by seasoning liberally with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat the oil in a heavy, wide saute pan until it is very hot, but not smoking. Brown the lamb shanks 2 at a time, turning them so that each side is dark golden brown and crusty, about 12 minutes total. Remove the shanks from the pan.

Reduce the heat under the saute pan to medium high and add the onions, garlic and ginger. Cook stirring frequently until the onions begin to caramelize slightly and pick up the color and scrapings leftover from browning the meat, about 5 minutes. Put the shanks in a deep, wide casserole, or a roasting pan. They should fit closely, in a single layer, leaving enough room in the pan to be covered with stock. A lid that fits well is helpful.

Add the sauteed onion, garlic and ginger to the lamb shanks along with the saffron, ground cinnamon, ground ginger, black and cayenne peppers, bay leaves, cinnamon stick and almonds. Cover the shanks with the chicken stock adding a bit of water if necessary to cover them completely. Cover tightly and braise for about 3-1/2 hours, adding the dried cranberries during the last 30 minutes. The lamb should be very tender and falling off the bone.

To finish the sauce, melt the butter in a saute pan with the oil over medium heat. If the shallots are larger than a small walnut, peel and separate into as many cloves as possible, or trim the root end without removing it completely. Halve or quarter the larger shallots; the root will hold the layers together. Add shallots to the pan and saute gently until they begin to soften slightly, about 5 minutes. Add the pear slices and sugar and continue to saute until everything is golden brown, about 15 minutes. Add some chicken stock or water if the sugar begins to get dark.

Remove the lamb shanks from the braising liquid. Transfer the braising liquid to a separate saucepan (there should be about 6 cups), put the shanks back in the braising pan and keep them warm. Add the pears and shallots to the braising liquid and reduce slightly. It will already be fairly thick. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper as needed.

To serve, while the sauce is reducing, put the couscous on a larger platter and arrange the lamb shanks on top. Garnish with some pear slices and shallots and spoon the reduced sauce over the meat. Sprinkle with parsley and serve with plain yogurt on the side.

Take six to a dozen different people, from all kinds of backgrounds and varied cooking abilities. Add a French master chef, a skilled sous-chef, one who is also a wine expert, and her husband, who is another wine expert. Blend together in a modernised 200-year-old farmhouse in France’s Languedoc district, serve with walking, cycling, tennis and swimming on the side, and you have the French House Party.

St. Raymond's Gastro Acadamy where we learn to cook.

The French House Party offers a wide range of courses, ranging from video and movie making, through drama and artwork to creative writing. But, their signature dish is probably the Gastro Academy.

There are three cookery courses to choose from; the 7-day Cook au Vin;, the 6-day Gourmet Explorer; and the 3-day Cuisine in Brief, which I attended. But, please be advised, they aren’t intended to turn you into a gourmet cook overnight. It’s a pity experience is the only appropriate word I can think of.

Chef Robert Abraham ready to teach us some of what he knows.

Chopping and creating our masterpieces.

But, before I get carried away by the relaxing Art Deco atmosphere of the dining-room, sitting room and bedrooms, I’d better talk about the kitchen which, of course, would be the main focus of our business. After lunch on the first day, we were briefly introduced to it, to help to make amuses-bouche, which sounds a lot nicer than nibbles,  to go with our pre-dinner apéritif.

The kitchen is long, with a central table running down the middle, with provisions  for taller (or shorter) people to take part without too much discomfort. It was only recently refurbished, and gasps of admiration and envy greeted it. And, I have an idea that some of those features might shortly be adopted in the kitchens of the participants.

Before dinner, the chef de cuisine, Robert Abraham, introduced himself. He would, he said, be overseeing our cooking on the morrow, but first, we needed ingredients. In the morning, we would accompany him to the market in Revel to buy them.

The chef manages to find the market's best.

Up to a year ago, I thought that the idea of the chef going to the market and personally selecting ingredients was a fiction put about by the makers of TV food programmes. But, in the last twelve months, I’ve met two chefs who did just that, so I’m happy to stand corrected.

Unfortunately, my French isn’t good enough to understand the discussion — maybe even haggling — that went on between Chef Robert and the stallholders, but we came away with basketfuls of provisions that could have been entered in a competition in any County Show at home in the UK.

So, with all the people and ingredients assembled, we were ready to begin cooking. We had three sessions, prepared three meals and, for the sake of brevity, I’ll just talk about the main courses. Under the eye of Chef Robert, we all took part; some to a greater extent than others. I thought back to basic training days, when I’d sit down to a meal, and think, with pride, “I peeled those potatoes!”

For lunch on the first day, we had duck breasts with apples reinette. The apples were baked with lemon juice, honey, butter, pepper and cinnamon; the duck cooked in Noilly Prat and served in slices. It was covered with a sauce made from apple juice and the juiced the duck was cooked in.

Our plated duck and apple slices with Noilly Prat and sauce.

Dinner was St. Jacques scallops served with orange butter sauce and parsnips. I used to think I didn’t like parsnips, but I changed my mind when I tasted these. The main learning point, though, was getting the edible bit out of the scallop. Weretained the shells, to serve a seafood starter for the the following lunch.

The main course on that occasion was monkfish rouelle, served with new potatoes and a tartine of a slice of fried aubergine (that’s eggplant, to my transatlantic readers) topped with a sauce of mussels and shallots.

We also helped to make starters and sweets too numerous to mention here, except that everyone enthused about the crême brulée and the madeleines.

No French meal would be complete without the wine, and here, wine expert Carl Hargreaves came to the fore. He selected wines he thought would go best with each course and he and his wife, sous-chef Debbie, held a wine-tasting just prior to our departure.

My favourite was the Muscat served before the first dinner. It’s said that Dom Perignon visited the area, and refined the recipe for Muscat into champagne.

We all enjoy a little wine talk -- and the wine.

And, a misconception about French cooking was also corrected. I’d missed it, but it wasn’t till the end, on the way back to the airport, that director Moira Martingale pointed out that, at no point in the weekend did Robert use garlic.

In 2008, the French House Party was named ‘Top Learning Retreat’ in the National Geographic book “100 Best Worldwide Vacations to Enrich Your Life.” Cooking is by no means all that goes on there. Find out much more at

www.frenchhouseparty.co.uk

By Richard Frisbie

Chocolate Bliss written by Susie Norris
Subtitled: Sensuous recipes, spa treatments, and other divine indulgences.
ISBN #978-1-58761-347-0 $16.99 Hardcover

I know, I know. What is a guy well-known for his disdain for desserts, especially chocolate desserts, doing reviewing a book on chocolate?  Well, ask yourself – who could be more objective, a chocolate lover, or me?  I’m open to new ideas and ways of thinking, and I’m always willing to research the other side of a position.  In this case, I’m glad I did.

Chocolate Bliss looks like a light book – almost fluffily frivolous – in its cute 7” square size and color photos. I was not prepared for the comprehensive, informative text or the engaging writing style of the author.  Chocolate Bliss is much more than it appears.

To quote the author, Susie Norris, in her introduction:  “I am a pastry chef, chocolatier, culinary school teacher, and snickers bar sneaker.”  Right away she establishes her credentials, interest and sense of humor. I was hooked!

The book is divided into four information packed segments; each dealing with a different aspect of chocolate, and each ending in a collection of recipes.
I – Good Taste – Exploring your favorite chocolates
. . . is an explanation of the different elements of chocolate’s taste, with definitions, websites, techniques for tastings, history and a list of great books of chocolate recipes. Then Susie Norris presents “sensuous recipes: from bonbons to fondue”
II – Health and Beauty – How chocolate helps you inside and out
. . . explains how chocolate is good for you – as a health food, as a vitamin, and for your blood, heart, skin, teeth and brain. The relevant scientific studies are discussed, their findings and supporters examined, and advice on how to control your cravings is given.  She finishes with “healthy recipes: from snacks to skin care.”
III – Good Works – How you can help chocolate
. . . is a vivid account of how chocolate grows, including the importance of preserving the environment it grows in, as well as saving the way of life of the 50 million people involved in its harvesting and distribution worldwide. Throughout this you’re given the fair-trade and organic chocolate argument with sound reasons to follow it.  She then includes “earthy recipes: from chili to cheesecake.”
IV – Share the Love – the gift of chocolate
. . . begins with the Aztec myths to explain how chocolate’s perception as a “gift of the gods” continues through the Holidays and celebrations of today. Halloween, Christmas, Hanukkah, Valentine’s Day, Easter – even Birthdays and Weddings – each has a chocolate tradition whose history is examined. The author then offers “gifting recipes: from cupcakes to white chocolate roses.”

Did You Know . . .
Ninety-eight percent of women have food cravings, as do 68 percent of men?

Chocolate generates an estimated $80 billion annual international income?

Chocolate is the third largest global commodity behind sugar and coffee?

Cocoa butter melts at around 91 degrees?

An ounce of very dark chocolate every day is healthy medicine?

Throughout the pages pithy and humorous quotes are included from literature, famous chefs, and cookbook authors. Facts and factoids from chemistry to history are also used to help reinforce the text. Chocolate Bliss is fun to read!

As for Chocolate Bliss as a cookbook, each of the attractively illustrated recipes is presented in a clear and logical manner. Methods, tips for success, and shortcuts are included in detail with the reasoning behind them. Whenever a specialized ingredient is given, it is defined, and shopping information and brand recommendations are given. It is clear that the author is a culinary instructor. She really knows how to make following the recipes easy.

I liked this book! In fact, I liked it so much I went to my local health food store and bought a bag of organic cocoa nibs* to add to the Chocolate Sugar Dough recipe (page 132) for the tart crust (page 59) for my Thanksgiving cheese cake. I told you I could keep an open mind!

*cocoa nibs are pure cocoa beans that have been fermented, hulled, roasted, and cracked, but not ground, to a paste. They have a nut-like crunch. (There are 8 references to cocoa nibs in the index.)

Chocolate Bliss by Susie Norris
Subtitled: Sensuous recipes, spa treatments, and other divine indulgences.
ISBN #978-1-58761-347-0 150 pages Hardcover $16.99
http://www.crownpublishing.com

By Rosemary Minati

One of my fondest memories as a German American child is of  my father biting into a frankfurter, sauerkraut juice running down his long, thin arms. “Sauerkraut was the one vegetable we ate with every meal,” my father recalled of his own childhood. It is true, my grandmother loved sauerkraut. I think she even had it with her breakfast. I didn’t understand this as a child, but ate it because I was told to clear my plate or, according to German folklore, it would rain. No questions asked.

Once, my parents tried to make their very own batch in a large stone crock in our garage. I would suggest you skip that project and just buy a can. It will save at least a month’s worth of work. Over the years I have grown to love sauerkraut. Just the smell of it cooking evokes warm memories of my dad and his mom. My family recipe just might change the way you eat hot dogs and sauerkraut.

My father’s favorite meal was all beef German hot dogs slathered with sauerkraut. It was simple and tasty. It wasn’t just any sauerkraut; it was cooked with sautéed onions and bacon. My mom will tell you that it is very important to rinse your sauerkraut with cool water three times. I don’t know why three is the magic number, but I know when my mother tells you to do something, you just do it. Why, because she’s one of the best cooks I know.

When my parents left Long Island and moved near m in New York’s Westchester county, my dad would send me to Karl Ehmer’s store, in Yorktown Heights to buy two dozen extra long hot dogs. German treats from this small jam-packed store were inevitably added to the order. Dark chocolate covered marzipan, potato dumpling mix, deli mustard, and braunschweiger are always stuffed into my shopping bag.

Once home, the first step is separating the twisted casings between the long ropes of frankfurters. The sauerkraut must cook for about one-half hour to blend the flavors. According to another one of my mother’s rules the hot dog rolls must be warmed in the oven. As a purist, my dad believed that the frankfurter needed nothing but the roll and the sauerkraut. To his dismay, I always want mustard and relish on mine. I was never that fond of hot dogs growing up, so I felt the need to hide the taste.

I have since learned to love this simple meal and especially the flavor of the cooked sauerkraut my father loved so much. This down-to-earth, delicious meal is served in my home now – but not for breakfast.

Kurt’s Sauerkraut

1 can or 1 package fresh sauerkraut
4 slices bacon
1 small onion
water

Drain sauerkraut in a colander and rinse with cool water three times. Chop the onions and bacon and put in a frying pan. Sauté until onions are soft and the bacon starts turning brown. Add the drained and rinsed sauerkraut to the bacon and onion mixture and stir. Add enough water to almost cover sauerkraut and cook until it all begins to boil. Turn down heat and simmer for about 30 minutes.

Rosemary can be reached at: Rosemary@globalfoodie.com.

By Susan McKee

Long distance travel requires steel wings and an engine; throw in a few boats and you’ve pretty much exhausted the transportation options. For trips involving distance, taking to the air is a necessity.

One advantage to travel writing is obvious –traveling. Of course, that’s one of the disadvantages as well. When
you’re traveling, you’re not where you’re going, and you’ve left where you’ve been. Transit time is a state of suspended animation.

Take getting to Malaysia; it’s on
the other side of the earth from where I live. East or west it’s still 23 hours
in the air. I flew from Newark to Kuala Lumpur, so the plane stopped in “Dubai to
refuel.

An hour or so in that international airport terminal is just enough time to ogle the jewelry and designer shops and send a postcard. Then it’s back on board to endure the tedium – dropping off to sleep, waking and reading for a bit, then dozing off again.

There’s not much to do other than watch videos when you’re stuck in steerage. Most overseas flights these days have individual television screens, even in coach. But, the choices are often inane, and how many times can you watch the same episodes of popular television sitcoms? I find myself tuning into the map charting the plane’s progress.

Sometimes that’s a mistake.

A recent flight home from Paris to Chicago required a
stopover in Cincinnati. I watched the plane make a 180° turn as it traversed Ohio. We’d been sent away from the airport and were in a holding pattern because earlier airplanes were stacked ahead trying to land in rainy weather (FYI: that’s really bad news when you’re already behind schedule).

Suddenly, there was a sharp, swift sound between a pop and a bang. It was accompanied by a blinding white light. We’d been hit by lightening! The pilot came on the public announcement system to explain, “everything was OK.” I watched the map as we did another about face. Finally we were in the front of the line to land. (Oh, and by the way, I still missed my connecting flight.)

Giant airplanes with hundreds of passengers aren’t the only method of getting around in the air. In the U.S. Virgin Islands, I took a pontoon plane to get from St. Thomas to St. Croix. In Britain, I boarded a 25-seater Sikorski helicopter to get from Penzance to the Isles of Scilly. Outside Melbourne, Australia, I went up in a hot air balloon.

Pontoon planes are hybrids; they land and take off from water. Usually the cockpit is tiny – four cramped seats, and when the engine’s going, it’s very noisy. Both passengers and pilot wear headsets to communicate aloft.

Sightseeing is especially good from pontoon planes, though, because they fly so slowly at such low altitudes. I had a glimpse of the disappearing wetlands along the Gulf Shore of Louisiana. I net a bird’s eye view of the brilliant fall foliage around Maine’s Moosehead Lake in a similar aircraft.

Helicopters come in all sorts and sizes. The Sikorski in England was huge, built originally for military use and reconditioned to fly regularly scheduled service to the islands off Land’s End. The sightseeing helicopter I boarded in Daytona Beach, Fla., seated
just four; but the views of the Atlantic coast and the Daytona Motor Speedway
were terrific.

Hot air balloons are another kind of flight altogether. It’s hard to imagine how they were ever considered as an efficient means of transportation, but they’re great for a morning or evening excursion. Up in the heavens it’s very quiet – except for the occasional roar of the flames let loose to heat the air to keep everything aloft. Of course,
direction is somewhat dependent on the wind, but with a good chase crew on the
ground, all turns out well.

Over the years, I have learned some coping strategies for long airplane flights. I never carry on board more than a backpack that stuffs under the seat in front of me (I don’t want to wrestle with stowing a heavy wheeled case in an overhead bin).

In that backpack, I carry my essentials – the things I positively cannot do without when I land, including an extra pair of contact lenses, my laptop, a paperback book and my notebook, my itinerary, medicine, camera and batteries.

Because I try to sleep as much as I can on the plane, I don’t need many toys in my bag. A bottle of water is essential even though I now have to buy it past security (unless the kindly TSAagent lets me take an empty bottle through security. Snacks are essential and trail mix works best for me. And I don’t forget to walk around occasionally and do
leg exercises to minimize the chances of circulation problems while aloft.

Fortunately, I forget the agonies of travel once I get off the plane. No matter how tedious the flight, how annoying my seatmates, how unappetizing (or expensive) the food or how dehydrating the cabin, I still look forward to my next trip.

After all, it’s only been a century since humans took wing.

Susan McKee can be reached at: Susan@globalfoodie.com

The Young Man and the Sea
Recipes & Crispy Fish Tales from Esca
By David Pasternack and Ed Levine
Published Artisan 2007, New York, NY

By Rosemary Minati

Last month, after a hectic weekday, I ran into the supermarket in search of the perfect fish.  As usual, the choices were daunting.  I always seek the advice of the guy behind the counter and choose based on his recommendation.  That’s why I finally decided to go to the bookstore and learn how to make an educated decision — on my own. Yes, I want to know what fish is freshest, wild or farmed, but I don’t want my evening meal based on some guy’s preferences.

I discovered The Young Man & the Sea; Recipes and Crispy Fish Tales by Pasternack. My first reaction was surprise as I breezed through the pages. There is only a short lists of ingredients for each Italian-based recipe. I was not intimidated and realized most items are easily found in my local supermarket.  Page 13  offered “Dave’s Tuna Advice.” Pasternack not only describes what to look for, but lists six different tunas.  Who knew there were so many choices beyond fresh or canned albacore in traditional oil or water?   He includes recipes for tuna meatballs, tuna Bolognese, or Ventresca tuna salad, and more.

Pasternack offers advice on shrimp, tentacles, scallops, and how to fillet a whole fish.  The book contains more than 100 recipes and is guaranteed to make your mouth water.

Pictures of Pasternack beside a well-used fishing pole, his sturdy rubber boots, waiting at the back of a boat are fascinating. Some of his buddies are pictured as well, including “Tommy Crab,” who he describes as the “Ed Norton of the crustacean world.”  These tidbits make for interesting reading.

This fish tale was written after Ed Levine approached Pasternack in Esca, his New York City restaurant. He successfully he urged Pasternack to publish his recipes.

Fast forward a week after I finished the book. I planned to make fresh grilled tuna for dinner. Now I know how.

I confidently stepped up to the fish counter, smiled and said,  “Excuse me, but is that tuna  yellowfin or Bonita?”

Rosemary can be reached at Rosemary@globalfoodie.com.