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HOME ON THE RANGE

globalfoodie — Tue, 19 Jul 2011 22:49:17 +0000

Rose’s Chicken Cacciatore

By Denise J. Dubé

Chicken cacciatore simmering "on the range."

Growing up chicken cacciatore – or hunter’s stew – was frequently served at our house. It was filling and held large chunks of chicken, Mom’s tomato sauce, green beans and potatoes. It was a satisfying meal that filled the tummies of a larger-than-average family.

It’s been decades, but I still remember the distinct flavor created from the simmering chicken as it melded with the tomatoes and spices.

At the time I remember being annoyed with the constant interruptions caused by bits of bone and joint cartilage. And, I could have done without the potatoes.

Its flavor was incredible though and as the years and my mother passed, I thought about how many dishes she created in her small Waltham kitchen.

Like sauce, everyone’s has a varied nuance, one that was never duplicated in my kitchen – well, not until last week.

I searched online for something that looked like Mom’s version. There were four recipes and none resembled hers. She never used wine or peppers, which was an ingredient in all that was found.

Factoring in the time, my mother’s need to scrimp and use whatever was on hand, and her ingenuity with food, I started cooking.

Instead of boneless thighs, breasts and legs I bowed to Mom’s chicken pieces, bones and cartilage.

Admittedly, I veered off the path and removed the skin, something that wasn’t done in the 1960s.

I peeled, prodded, pulled and cut the skin from each piece. Reproducing her dish was key, but so is my cholesterol count. Admittedly, I left a ribbon of fat on each piece just for flavor.

The chicken pieces were lightly salted and peppered before hitting the sizzling olive oil that bubbled in my over-sized sauté pan. I watched them carefully for about 5-10 minutes.

While the chicken sautéed I took another pot and added chopped onions and extra virgin olive oil, one that came from my grandmother’s homeland.

Each piece of browned chicken was added to the larger pot.

The bottom of the chicken pan was browned and crusty and just what the stew needed for more flavor.

Instead of wine, I deglazed the pan with almost two cups of chicken broth and poured the bubbling beige elixir through a strainer and into the bigger pot with the chicken pieces and onion.

Lots of garlic slivers, one or two cups of marinara sauce, basil and just a little more salt and pepper were added.

When it burped hot bubbles of red sauce I turned down the heat and covered the pan, leaving a space to evaporate excess fluid.

The green beans and potatoes were left out – and in hindsight that was probably a mistake.

A few hours later, when the chicken was falling off the bone, and the house smelled like decades past, I tasted the cacciatore.

This was my mother’s stew – minus the veggies.

Rotini was boiled, oiled and placed in a bowl on the counter as the stew base and in place of the potatoes.

Smells and tastes bring back memories and as I ate my ambivalence over the cacciatore resurfaced.

The boned chicken is necessary for a hearty and flavorful stew; but it’s also a huge pain to stop eating the meal every few seconds to remove a piece of bone or cartilage.

I’m an adult now and have a little more patience, not a lot – but enough. As an adult I’m quite capable of stopping every few seconds to nibble the meat off a bone or discreetly remove a bit of cartilage – and make this dish again and again.

BELGIUM: Vincent Florizoone

globalfoodie — Sat, 16 Jul 2011 20:29:40 +0000

Mythology of a Young Innovator: Vincent FlorizooneBy Maria Lisella

A splashy entrance is not Vincent Florizoone’s style. If anything, his understated arrival at an interview on the 44th Floor of the New York Times building was inauspicious. Lanky and handsome, he is charming in a relaxed way, no affectations or airs. At at the mere mention of food he is alert, happy and ready to chat about his most recent tasting adventure.

Voted the most innovative chef of Flanders in 2010, the Belgian culinary magazine SMAAK called him a star in 2008; and while even younger, in 2007, Vincent Florizoone received the Trophée Champagne Jacquart, a very prestigious prize for a top chef under 35 years old without a Michelin star.

He outgrew his restaurant, Petit Cabaret in Veurne, and relocated to a bigger place in Nieuwpoort in June 2008 where he opened Grand Cabaret. That same year, he earned his first quotation from GaultMillau 14/20.

Two years ago, Florizoone was the leading chef in a group of equally impressive peers who were chosen to impart their knowledge of modern Flemish cuisine to British chefs and media at Harrods.

Today at 32, Florizoone is an integrated composite of all of his training – from learning next to mom and dad, both of whom own their own restaurants, to studying under the mighty toque of Belgian chef, Gianpierre Bruneau who saw in Florizoone a shooting star. Bruneau paved the way for young Florizoone to study under and alongside Alfonso Iaccarino in Sorrento, Italy and Ferran Adrià at el Bulli in Spain. Taking a page from Iaccarino, much of the produce Florizoone uses at his restaurant has been grown within kilometers of his restaurant.

Recently, Florizoone cooked up a storm in New York City as a way to introduce Big Apple gastronomic media and travel communities to the rich panorama of Modern-Day Flemish Cuisine.ML: How have you come to represent what is so new in Flemish cuisine?
VZ: I appreciate classic dishes, deconstructing a bit, enhancing them, while not really altering their basic nature. The classics are experiencing a renaissance and they should – they are being presented in new ways, they look different but their roots are very true to their origin.

Hennepot is a good example – in Flemish dialect it means hen in a pot literally…a dish cooked in a pot of clay that can be served at room temperature; I’ve translated it with gelatin, de-boned chicken, sorbet made with granny smith apples, and other ingredients, but it is still hennepot.

ML: How did you get involved in Harrod’s Flemish Fortnight?
VZ:Harrods googled me because they looked for different chefs to illustrate various aspects of Flemish cooking, and I was the youngest who was also preparing and presenting traditional Flemish cuisine in a new way but I was in stellar company: Desmidt is now a two-star chef (Restaurant Bartholomeus in Knokke) and one of the best in Belgium; when I eat there I can never find anything wrong at all with what has been prepared – it’s always perfect and amazing. Try as I might just to tease him, nothing is ever wrong.ML: There is very little about you on the web in English at least, so when did you start cooking?
VZ: My grandfather, brother, father and mother are all cooks, chefs; my parents each have their own restaurant – hers is on the seaside in Koksijde and seats 220; while his is in Teper outside of Pouprin and seats 45. I always worked in restaurants with my parents — have been cooking since I was 16.

ML: When did you decide to become a professional?
VZ: My father wanted me to be a doctor so I studied Greek and Latin; he warned me to do well in languages, so I succeeded at Greek and Latin but failed at everything else, a planned failure that was a gateway to what I loved best.

ML: Did you attend a culinary institute? How and where did you apprentice?
VZ: At that time, Belgium had maybe four Michelin-starred restaurants, today there are at least 22. When I was 18, I worked with Gianpierre Bruneau who is like the Gordon Ramsey of Belgium — the “living hell,” and also the best person to work with and the best place to have worked – what I really learned was discipline. Bruneau is a very hard task-master — he formed me.

ML: How did you get to work at the three-Michelin-starred Relais Don Alfonso in Sorrento and at Ferran Adrià’s el Bulli in Spain?
VZ: It was a dream to go to Italy to learn the classics – Bruneau asked me if I just wanted to go to cook pastas, but it was more than that of course – I wanted to work at a two or three-star Michelin starred restaurant; my goal was to become an all-around chef, to be as knowledgeable as I could be.

Before I knew it, Bruneau arranged it; I had one day’s notice – I packed and arrived in Sorrento, Italy where I studied under Alfonso Iaccarino for three years. Once voted as best Mediterranean restaurant in the world, people like Bill Clinton and Maggie Thatcher would fly to Sorrento just for a meal there, so you can imagine the quality.

At El Bulli, it was all about learning the best dishes – from tapas to dessert — experimentation, innovation – Ferran has been called the world’s greatest chef, the Salvador Dali of the kitchen and Time magazine placed him on the list of the 100 most influential people of our times.ML: What were the differences between working in Belgium versus working in the Mediterranean?

VZ: No rush, no stress…it was amazing. During the first month, I understood the language and after three, I could speak it…I was immersed in it. I would receive my list of tasks but to be completed within the day not the two hours I was used to, so I learned to slow down, pace myself. Alfonso Iaccarino has acres of rich volcanic soil near the sea, it is almost purple where he cultivates vegetables or purchases raw materials from small producers in the area.

I worked with 14 cooks from 11 nations and on our days off each month we would invite the group to our apartments and cook something from our country so we could sample as much as possible. I have tasted cockroaches from Thailand and fresh grasshoppers, so I can say I have a very all-around palatte.ML: Do you have a favorite cookbook?
VZ: Make Up by Bonelli Gianluiggi and do you know why I love it, because it is just pictures, no recipes, few words…I hunt for inspiration, do not need to be dictated to but sometimes I need a jumping off point, visuals do that for me. We taste with the tongue, the nose and the eye also very much wants something to, so you have to feed that desire.

ML: What advice would you give to young people who aspire to be professional chefs?
VZ: I would say anyone can be a good cook – it takes hard work, the most important element – then a commitment to be fast, a multi-tasker, to get the various dishes to the table all at once while they are still warm…everything tastes good if prepared with love.

ML: What advice would you give at-home cooks who want to upgrade their own expertise?
VZ: In a perfect world, it would be optimum if they could work in a famous chef’s kitchen, intern, but that is not usually possible. I would suggest the simplest thing – cook and use vegetables and fruits according to season and that includes knowing when to avoid fish during their breeding time or they will disappear that much sooner.

ML: And, finally, what impressions would you like visitors to Belgium to take home with them in terms of the cuisine?
VZ: We have a very rich culinary tradition for sure – I would ask visitors to forget mussels and waffles, although when they are good, they are very good. Our mussel season is from September through April, so fall, winter, spring, but apart from those times, do not go near the mussels. Do taste our beers, they are the best anywhere…in Maine, Ebenezer Christopher’s sells 35 Belgian beeers, some we cannot even get at home, but among my favorites are the Belgian Geuze, of which there are many.

New York-based, Maria Lisella may be reached at: marialessella@aol.com. View more of her work at www.nytwa.info/marialisella

NEW YORK: FRISBIE AT CIA BOOT CAMP

globalfoodie — Fri, 04 Mar 2011 05:34:47 +0000

Plays well with others …

By Richard Frisbie

Ready to eat?

The image that comes to mind when I hear “Boot Camp” does not include kitchen skills, especially when it’s prefaced with CIA. I think of sweaty bodies and abusive drill sergeants constantly shouting orders to do more push-ups. Naturally then, it was with some trepidation that I accepted an invitation to attend a CIA Boot Camp, even though they told me it was about food. (And they didn’t mean KP!)

Exterior shot of the CIA (Photo by Richard Frisbie.)

That’s how I recently found myself at the Culinary Institute, in full chef regalia, standing on the 6 a.m. breakfast line with 2,000 other students. It is a cafeteria cattle-call with a blackboard menu. I filed in, gave my order and waited, watching the class whose job it was to actually cook breakfast until my name was called. That’s what is great about the CIA. Students get real hands-on cooking experience in the student cafeteria and in each of the four public campus restaurants the CIA operates.

At dinner in the American Bounty Restaurant the evening before, students who were graduating the next day served our meal. Every aspect of food service, chemistry, and business, is a class each student must complete to graduate. That includes being waiters, bus boys, short-order cooks, sous chefs and chefs. If the professionalism and expertise I experienced at dinner are any indication, and I believe they are, the young men and women in the restaurant were ready to carry the mantle of the CIA into the culinary world.

Learning to cook at the CIA.

Our Boot Camp experience was a Farm-to-Table event focusing on the fresh bounty of Dutchess County farms. (The CIA is located in Hyde Park, Dutchess County, NY.) The first day we visited the farms and picked, dug, harvested and shopped for the ingredients we’d be cooking the next day. From the potatoes to the brussel sprouts, and from the goat cheese to the locally milled cornmeal, everything on the next day’s menu was sourced locally.

The Culinary Institute of America’s promotional material reads, “At Boot Camp you’ll discover how to select the perfect ingredients, how to prepare a variety of dishes, and how to demonstrate more confidence in your own kitchen. Hands-on cooking, chef demonstrations, and exceptional food make CIA Boot Camp one of “America’s Top Ten Destinations.”

What they don’t tell you is that you’ll be one of a group of “boot campers” working as a team to put complex meals on the table. Our group was only seven people, but there was work (and food enough) for at least twelve. That meant four teams of three (an ideal plan) was out, and we all had to work well together to produce a meal. I think we did a pretty good job, considering.

Making pasta.

Our “Team Production Assignments” were:
Team One
Heirloom Tomato and Goat Cheese Tart
Coq au Vin
Fresh Buttered Egg Pasta

Team Two
Warm Hudson Valley Salad with Baby Greens and Apples
Sautéed Berkshire Pork Cutlets with a Wild Mushroom Ragout
Potato Gnocchi

Team Three
Roast Rack of Lamb Persillé
Creamy Polenta
Oven-Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Lardons

Team Four
Skewered Beef Fillet with Chimichurri Sauce and Corn Relish
Corn Pudding
Braised Swiss Chard
Vanilla Ice Cream

I was Team Three, with some help with the brussel sprouts from the gnocci and swiss chard person. I helped with the chimichurri sauce, and took photos and a video when I wasn’t worried about burning the polenta!

In the classroom, beforehand, we reviewed the recipes and techniques we’d need to create this meal. When I asked how we’d be able to cook coq au vin in our 3 ½ hour cooking class, Chef Thomas said we’d use young hens instead of an old cock. He knew it would still be close, though.

I never cooked a rack of lamb before, and I had no idea what persillé meant. That’s why I volunteered to cook it. I learned that a persilladé is a bread and herb coating, and that lamb cooks very quickly! Also, that local farm-raised lamb is juicy and delicious even if it was medium rare instead of rare.

This next part is confusing to explain, but I’ll try. I was in a new kitchen surrounded by new people, cooking a recipe new to me, with descriptions in French that I didn’t understand. So, when the recipe called for me to make a mirepoix, I followed the instructions blindly, not knowing what I was doing, and not connecting. It all worked out all right, but it wasn’t until the next day that I realized that, had the recipe just said “make a sofrito,” I’d have known immediately what I was doing and been more comfortable. Next time I’ll ask what the unfamiliar terms mean before I start to cook.

For the rack of lamb I seasoned the Frenched ribs with salt, pepper, rosemary and thyme – on all sides. That roasted at 400 degrees for 15 minutes. Then I sprinkled the mirepoix (chopped onions, carrots and celery) around the lamb in the roasting pan and cooked at 350 degrees until an internal temp of 130. (I had no idea how long that would take. Someone suggested 45 minutes. In 17 minutes the internal temp was 132 degrees!) I set the lamb aside and made a sauce with the pan juices. It was strained, degreased and thickened (with arrowroot), and left to sit in a warm water bath while I mixed the bread crumbs, garlic and parsley, with melted butter. I brushed the lamb with whole grain mustard, and pressed the breading onto the top of the rack of lamb. At quarter after twelve I popped the lamb into a 400 degree oven to brown the crumbs. There was just time to carve off the individual ribs before the 12:30 p.m. serving.

For the polenta, I sautéed an onion and 2 cloves of garlic in 3 tablespoons of oil in a tall saucepan. I added 2 ½ cups water and the some of milk. When that was boiling, I added 1 ¼ tsp salt, and slowly drizzled 1 1/3 cups corn meal into the boiling liquid, stirring constantly. I continued boiling and stirring until it began to thicken. Then I transferred it to a buttered baking dish, covered it, and baked it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. This method eliminates much of the stirring polenta usually gets, and freed me up for other things.

Other things included chef demonstrations of how to cut up a chicken, how to make pasta (wait until you see the photos!) and how to make mozzarella cheese. There was also time to help find strainers, measuring cups, the right pans – everything that is “lost” when you are in a strange kitchen. With all of this, we were on a tight schedule to produce everything at the same time, in time for lunch.

When I put the lamb in the oven for the browning, I removed the polenta, scraping it into a serving bowl, being careful not to disturb the bottom crust that developed on the pan. (That seemed like such a shame!) I stirred in ½ cup Parmesan and sprinkled another over the top. To dress it up some more, before putting it on the table I gathered the leftover herbed bread crumbs and sprinkled them on top.

The meal was almost a complete success. Our chef/instructor thought the corn pudding failed for reasons not related to the cook (it was grey!) and planned some test cooking with different utensils and techniques to determine what exactly went wrong. Everything else worked out perfectly, except that my camera batteries failed halfway through. Replacements were locked in my car and in a distant room, and there was no time to retrieve either. So bear with me in the photo dept while you enjoy the video on how to dismember a chicken.

Oven-Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Lardons
6 oz bacon cut into little strips
2 lbs brussel sprouts, stemmed, cut in half
1 tsp sea salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 500 degrees. Cook the bacon until it is crisp in a large oven-proof frying pan. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Have a large bowl of ice water nearby. Blanch the Brussel Sprouts for one minute in the boiling water. Remove to the ice water until chilled. Drain. Let dry on paper towels. When completely dry, toss with salt and pepper in the bacon and fat in the frying pan. Place in the hot oven and roast, shaking the pan occasionally, until they are tender and lightly charred, about 10 minutes. Serve hot.

The pasta was really good, as only fresh pasta can be, especially drenched with an herbed butter. The coq au vin was ready in time and delicious in a falling-off-the-bone kind of way. The braised red cabbage was an extra recipe we made because the cabbage looked so good. (Certainly, it was not because we needed more food, or had extra time!) It was similar to jarred red cabbage only waay better. I made that again as soon as I got home. The skewered beef was the wrong cut and too tough, but the relishes with it were very tasty, really complimented the good flavor of the beef. The pork and mushrooms were delicious, as good as the lamb, but so different. The braised swiss chard was perfect with this combination of foods. Finally, how can you go wrong with ice cream?

It was altogether too much food for the seven of us, plus the chef and two student helpers. We invited more people to join us, until we were 20 or so friends and colleagues celebrating our success cooking the bounty of local farms. We deserved to celebrate. We all worked together to put this meal on the table, and we all earned the passing grade – “Plays Well With Others!”

The Culinary Institute of America is a leader in the Farm-to-Fork movement. They believe in buying the freshest and best ingredients, and try to buy from local purveyors when possible. As proof of their commitment, the CIA hired a local farmer to coordinate local farm purchases. As an example, they buy 750,000 eggs locally every year. By next year they will all be free-range chicken eggs.

Sign up for the CIA Boot Camps online. They have all manner of classes from basic to advanced, and from baking to Asian cuisine, lasting from one day to 5 days. You’ll have a great time, you’ll learn new cooking techniques, and make a whole new bunch of foodie friends!

The Culinary Institute of America
1946 Campus Drive
Hyde Park, NY 12538
877-334-6464

http://www.ciachef.edu/enthusiasts/bootcamps/

WISCONSIN: Jazzed Up Marshmallows Provide a Perfect Holiday Topping

globalfoodie — Sat, 27 Nov 2010 23:47:27 +0000

By Deston S. Nokes

No more coffee, no more tea, I’m seeking chocolaty warmth from head to … knee.

With a wintery bluster outside my Oregon home, I rifled through my cupboards for hot chocolate and a package of cinnamon-infused marshmallows from Jazzed Up Marshmallows that I had been saving for just this type of day.

Specialty marshmallows, mmm ... (Photo by Kate Barr, www.katebarrphotography.com.)

Plopping a few of the small rectangles on top of my cocoa, I watched as they started melding with the chocolate. The first sip immediately filled my mouth with rich, cinnamon-spicy, chocolate goodness. Wow!

Yes, gourmet, cinnamon-flavored marshmallows may seem to some like a trivial treat; but these marshies are the bomb.

On a recent travel excursion, I was sold on the concept by a fellow traveler, Jason Quednow. He and his wife, Michelle, started Jazzed Up Marshmallows last March, and have been wowing customers with these flavorful, sweet concoctions.

“As we say on our website, each 1×1-inch marshmallow is around 30 calories, but it feels like you’re eating a pint of ice cream,” Jason said.

Never have I seen a fellow so excited about marshmallows, and I wouldn’t understand had I not tried them for myself. He and his wife have conjured up a kaleidoscope of flavors: chocolate, mint chocolate, cookies and cream, strawberry, peppermint, orange Dreamsickle, rootbeer, raspberry lemonade, toasted coconut, peanut butter cup, butterscotch chocolate chip, lemon and … especially for the holidays, pumpkin!

The spongy, sweet rectangles make great holiday, wedding and baby shower gifts. And Jason and Michelle urge folks to expand beyond melting them into s’mores and cocoa; and experiment by using the Jazzed Up Marshmallows to top ice-cream sundaes, to blend into Rice Krispie treats and for coffee and other drinks.

Gourmet and specialty marshmallows.

Prices range from $2.50 for a small, 1/10-lb. bag, to $15 for a 1-lb. bag of about 100 marshmallows. Mixed flavors are priced a little higher. Orders can be taken on the website, or for more information, contact:

Jazzed Up Marshmallows
Michelle & Jason Quednow
jazzedupmarshmallows@gmail.com
(262) 903-8029
Lake Mills, WI

Check out what Deston is up to at www.destonnokes.com, or e-mail him at deston@destonnokes.com.

MOMBO

globalfoodie — Sat, 14 Aug 2010 02:58:12 +0000

This restaurant is good for foodies who appreciate interesting spices, flavors and artistic presentation. Steve and I shared each course because everything looked so unique, fresh and tempting. The lobster bisque was creamy and rich. For entrees we chose fresh scallops that were cooked to perfection and a tender Kobe beef filet that was tender and juicy. (Story by Rosemary Minati.)

Chocolate Bliss

globalfoodie — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 11:42:29 +0000

By Richard Frisbie

Chocolate Bliss written by Susie Norris
Subtitled: Sensuous recipes, spa treatments, and other divine indulgences.
ISBN #978-1-58761-347-0 $16.99 Hardcover

I know, I know. What is a guy well-known for his disdain for desserts, especially chocolate desserts, doing reviewing a book on chocolate? Well, ask yourself – who could be more objective, a chocolate lover, or me? I’m open to new ideas and ways of thinking, and I’m always willing to research the other side of a position. In this case, I’m glad I did.

Chocolate Bliss looks like a light book – almost fluffily frivolous – in its cute 7” square size and color photos. I was not prepared for the comprehensive, informative text or the engaging writing style of the author. Chocolate Bliss is much more than it appears.

To quote the author, Susie Norris, in her introduction: “I am a pastry chef, chocolatier, culinary school teacher, and snickers bar sneaker.” Right away she establishes her credentials, interest and sense of humor. I was hooked!

The book is divided into four information packed segments; each dealing with a different aspect of chocolate, and each ending in a collection of recipes.
I – Good Taste – Exploring your favorite chocolates
. . . is an explanation of the different elements of chocolate’s taste, with definitions, websites, techniques for tastings, history and a list of great books of chocolate recipes. Then Susie Norris presents “sensuous recipes: from bonbons to fondue”
II – Health and Beauty – How chocolate helps you inside and out
. . . explains how chocolate is good for you – as a health food, as a vitamin, and for your blood, heart, skin, teeth and brain. The relevant scientific studies are discussed, their findings and supporters examined, and advice on how to control your cravings is given. She finishes with “healthy recipes: from snacks to skin care.”
III – Good Works – How you can help chocolate
. . . is a vivid account of how chocolate grows, including the importance of preserving the environment it grows in, as well as saving the way of life of the 50 million people involved in its harvesting and distribution worldwide. Throughout this you’re given the fair-trade and organic chocolate argument with sound reasons to follow it. She then includes “earthy recipes: from chili to cheesecake.”
IV – Share the Love – the gift of chocolate
. . . begins with the Aztec myths to explain how chocolate’s perception as a “gift of the gods” continues through the Holidays and celebrations of today. Halloween, Christmas, Hanukkah, Valentine’s Day, Easter – even Birthdays and Weddings – each has a chocolate tradition whose history is examined. The author then offers “gifting recipes: from cupcakes to white chocolate roses.”

Did You Know . . .
Ninety-eight percent of women have food cravings, as do 68 percent of men?

Chocolate generates an estimated $80 billion annual international income?

Chocolate is the third largest global commodity behind sugar and coffee?

Cocoa butter melts at around 91 degrees?

An ounce of very dark chocolate every day is healthy medicine?

Throughout the pages pithy and humorous quotes are included from literature, famous chefs, and cookbook authors. Facts and factoids from chemistry to history are also used to help reinforce the text. Chocolate Bliss is fun to read!

As for Chocolate Bliss as a cookbook, each of the attractively illustrated recipes is presented in a clear and logical manner. Methods, tips for success, and shortcuts are included in detail with the reasoning behind them. Whenever a specialized ingredient is given, it is defined, and shopping information and brand recommendations are given. It is clear that the author is a culinary instructor. She really knows how to make following the recipes easy.

I liked this book! In fact, I liked it so much I went to my local health food store and bought a bag of organic cocoa nibs* to add to the Chocolate Sugar Dough recipe (page 132) for the tart crust (page 59) for my Thanksgiving cheese cake. I told you I could keep an open mind!

*cocoa nibs are pure cocoa beans that have been fermented, hulled, roasted, and cracked, but not ground, to a paste. They have a nut-like crunch. (There are 8 references to cocoa nibs in the index.)

Chocolate Bliss by Susie Norris
Subtitled: Sensuous recipes, spa treatments, and other divine indulgences.
ISBN #978-1-58761-347-0 150 pages Hardcover $16.99
http://www.crownpublishing.com

Louisiana Chocolate Pie

globalfoodie — Thu, 29 Oct 2009 23:43:53 +0000

By Kaye Hurst

Mom’s Chocolate Pie

A special friend of my daughter’s called to check on her after a recent surgery. An immediate connection was made and we were old friends from way back. We talked about my daughter’s recovery – she’s doing better, thank you for asking – and about the food I brought her house as she rested and mended.

“Comfort food, that’s what they needed,” I told her. I had prepared chicken and dumplings and a chocolate pie.

“’What’s chocolate pie,’” she asked. “’Is it like Derby Pie?’”

I was in shock. Could someone really not know about chocolate pie? Apparently, yes.

Chocolate Pie is a sacred rite of passage in our family. I’ve already given my granddaughter, Lauren, her first three lessons on the art of chocolate pie making. There are many more to come. The women in our family love chocolate pie. It started with my grandmother, Ann Burns Jackson. Ann trained her girls Zada, Sadie, Rose and Bonnie to prepare chocolate pie. Aunt Sadie and my mom, Rose, honed their chocolate pie skills over the years. They are both in their 80’s now. In fact my mom is still making chocolate pie and doing hair in a small shop in Alabama — but that is a whole other story.

We all use the same recipe, however I still haven’t mastered the pie crust. For our clan a perfect shopping day starts with a piece of chocolate pie and a Coca Cola TM. Every holiday is celebrated with a pie of some type, whether pumpkin, lemon or apple, but, no matter what, there is always a chocolate pie in the house.

There’s a reason that pie is always on the table or being taken to a sick one’s home. When life is kicking you in the rear end chocolate pie make life all right. Oh yes, it does.

Almost everyone here in Louisiana will agree, when you have chocolate pie it just makes everything right in the world. When something is wrong or life just isn’t right we head for the nearest restaurant or home that promises us a slice of chocolate heaven.

I recently went home to Alabama to visit my mom, Rose, and my Aunt Sadie. Of course, I savored a piece of what I believe is the best chocolate pie in the world. It brought back memories and the love I feel for these women. I was teary as I left for the airplane to go home. As I headed back to Louisiana I found myself on a plane that sat on the tarmac because of mechanical problems . The stewardess sat beside and we started chatting about Louisiana food. She asked the same question. “What is chocolate Pie”

Well, I’ve decided it’s a Southern delicacy and should get the Nobel Peace Prize. Because it does make everything all right with world — even if it’s just for a few bites. So, I’m leaving you with the recipe. Make it with love and then let me know what problems it solved.

Mom’s Chocolate Pie

Ingredients:

1 cup sugar

3 tbsp. flour

3 tbsp. cocoa

3 eggs (beaten)

2 1/2 cups evaporated milk

1 tsp. vanilla

3 tbsp. butter

Whipped cream (small container heavy cream and a few tablespoons of sugar whipped until stiff.)

1 baked pie shell

Method:

Prebake the pie shell. Mix dry ingredients: sugar, flour and cocoa. Add beaten eggs and milk. Mix well, cook over medium heat and stir until thick. Remove from heat; add vanilla and butter. Pour into baked pie shell and cool before topping with whipped cream. Add coconut on top if you want. Makes one 9 inch pie.

Reach Kaye at: Nann1151@aol.com.

CABOS: An Unforgettable Dinner at Las Ventanas at Paraíso

globalfoodie — Thu, 01 Oct 2009 13:58:44 +0000

By Richard Frisbie

Las Ventanas al Paraíso is an exclusive hotel on the Cabos “corridor,” part way between the luxury resort town of Cabo San Lucas to the south, and the quieter colonial city of San Jose del Cabo to the north. It is simply stunning in its landscaping and architectural beauty. With a little over 100 rooms and suites, Las Ventanas al Paraíso (which translates as Windows to Paradise) successfully combines a small luxury boutique feel with a fabulous spa experience. It is also a favorite of foodies, and offers cooking classes with Chef Fabrice Puisset at a station on the edge of his walled herb garden. Fresh heirloom tomato and beet salad, red snapper baked in a hoja santa leaf, and a delicious selection of desserts were all on the menu the evening I attended. Talk about clean, fresh food. The chef darted into the herb garden whenever he needed fresh ingredients. What a night!

The setting of the class itself was unusual. Inside a walled garden, the class quickly revealed itself as an herb garden with a three-sided counter , all inside a pergola. We classmates arranged ourselves on stools around the “bar” while the “bartender” – who was actually the chef – took his station in front of us. Slanted mirrors hung above him so we could see what he was doing. Two classical guitarists played behind us, and staff hovered to refill our champagne* glasses as necessary (often!). He also played sous chef when needed (rarely!) The setting was perfect.
First Chef Fabrice created a guacamole, taking care to avoid making it into a paste. It had chunky, whole-pieces-of-avocado-bursting-with-flavor, combined with other ingredients to create the freshest in-your face- guacamole I’ve ever tasted. We were served that with a fresh tomato salsa and saltless tortilla chips as “blotters” while we watched the chef at work. With the amount of champagne we were drinking, it was good to have the “blotters!”

Chef Fabrice was an unusual instructor in that he measured nothing , only eyeing ingredients he used. As he worked he explained the concept and the process involved to create each dish – but giving no amounts! That’s how he made the vinaigrette for our salad. He started with a big bowl, pouring in a “goodly” amount of local agava flower honey , made from the tequila cactus, and even more champagne vinegar, to which he added lime juice and olive oil. He poached some orange zest to remove the bitterness and then added the zest, some reduced orange juice, and a few orange chunks to the bowl. A quick whisk, a dash of salt and pepper, and it was done. Without exact amounts, the experienced cook can still easily recreate the recipe using a 3/1 oil to vinegar ratio, adding the other ingredients to taste. The fresh, citrusy flavors complimented the complex tastes of the heirloom tomatoes and beets beautifully.
This next dish seemed fussy to me. I mean, sautéing and then baking a tiny piece of red snapper seemed a bit of overkill. I can’t believe the fillet wouldn’t cook just baking in the oven for 15 minutes or so, but then it wouldn’t have that buttery edge. Anyway, it was fun to watch him put it all together. The red snapper was cooked in butter and olive oil, then it was set on a leaf of the hoja santa plant which is commonly used in Mexican cuisine for tamales, and fish or meat wraps. It imparts a hard-to-put-your-finger-on, almost sassafras, almost eucalyptus taste to the meal. Tiny fresh vegetables (carrots, zucchini, leeks, fennel) were arranged around the fish with fresh basil, then the hoja santa leaf folded over to make a little package. That is set on a sheet of newspaper, wrapped again, and popped into the oven to bake. While it baked Chef Fabrice created a simple lime infused aioli to drizzle on top of the finished dish. Piquant, fragrant, crunchy, elusive in the root of its flavor, the snapper was complex and tasty. I guess, with red snapper readily available and commonly served, involved recipes such as this increase the variety of tastes one can get out of mild white fish.

The desserts tray was crowded with individual little fresh coconut milk custards topped with a variety of fresh fruits and sauces. Tiny multi-layered chocolate cakes, and other sweet concoctions in quantities far exceeding the number of participants were also added. There was even a plate of churros with sweet dips! The selection and combination kept us busy mining the depths of flavors. It was an extravagance of sweetness; a fitting finale to an over-the-top cooking demonstration. Chef Fabrice is an adept and able teacher, engaging in his presentation and execution. The class was one of the best I’ve had,and it certainly was in the nicest setting.
The chef and I definitely connected during the evening. He said he was impressed because I was the only one who took notes throughout the whole three hour meal. (I was impressed because I could still write after three hours of affirmative answers to the constant question, “Would you like more champagne, sir?”) He really is a sweetheart of a guy. I left with his recipes and the Ventanas’ signature red glass heart. It’s hanging in my window at home. Each day when the morning sun fills the heart with light I think I’m back at the table in Las Ventanas al Paraíso again.

* In the interest of clarity, the “champagne” was actually a 2000 Gloria Ferrer Royal Cuvée Brut, a Sonoma California sparkling wine. With 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay grapes, it fits within the range of comfort for my palate. Not too much Chardonnay, with the dark grapes (I really prefer the Pinot Meunier grape, but Pinot Noir is very similar) giving it the body and staying power for an evening of imbibing. At $25, this is a very good everyday sparkling wine.

The “Freshest” Guacamole
4 large avocados
1 medium red onion
1 medium tomato
1 bunch cilantro
2 chili serrano
1 oz lime juice
1 tbsp olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Cut each avocado in half and remove the seed. Holding one half cupped in your palm, use a rounded knife to crisscross the flesh of the fruit, not breaking the skin, to create ½ inch pieces.With a spoon, scoop it into a large bowl. Repeat for all halves. Finely chop the next four ingredients and stir in, adding the remaining ingredients as you do. The idea is that the avocado will mash a bit as you mix, but it will still have a texture when served.

For More information:
www.visitloscabos.travel
Tourism Los Cabos

Richard Frisbie can be reached at Richard@globalfoodie.com. He also does business at Hope Farm Press & Bookshop, 15 Jane Street Saugerties NY 12477 where, since 1959, he has specialized in New York State books. Questions? Call him at: 845-246-3522
History & Genealogy (NYGenWeb) www.hopefarm.com/geneatop.htm
Shopping-cart www.hopefarmbooks.com
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Oregon’s Bounty Helps Lift a Regional Icon

globalfoodie — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 16:22:27 +0000

By Deston Nokes

Mt. Hood’s Timberline Lodge has long been known as Oregon’s second most-visited site after Multnomah Falls. Located on the face of Mt. Hood, just a stone’s throw from Portland, Timberline offers incredible year-round skiing, a rustic ambiance, and a top-notch culinary team.

Timberline Lodge is more than an iconic landmark. It’s a mountain cabin on a grand scale: decidedly rustic, warm and cozy beyond measure. Some may recall that its façade played a starring role as The Overlook Hotel in Stanley Kubrick’s motion picture, The Shining.

“When Timberline was built during the Great Depression, the concept was to create a place for all of the people,” said Jon Tullis, Timberline spokesman. “The idea was to create ‘Oregon’s Mountain Home,’ and that feeling hasn’t changed one bit.”

But when the economic termites began eating away at the state’s tourism industry in 2008, even Timberline was hard hit. By October, the business downturn was so profound; the lodge had to close its dining room for lunch.

“We had to change our business model and find a way to ride the rising popularity of culinary tourism,” explained Leif Benson, CEC, AAC, Timberline’s executive chef of 30 years. “In Oregon we have incredible wines, meats, fish and produce; and at Timberline, we have the perfect background to showcase it all.”

After talking with different purveyors, Benson started the daily Farmer’s Market Brunch Buffet, which is a selection of distinctive Northwest cuisine every day in Timberline’s main lobby from 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. The region’s growers, producers and food industry advocates consult on the buffet offerings, and have found that the historic Timberline Lodge is a perfect setting to showcase their foods to a steady stream of culinary tourists.

Each day the brunch offers:

A Chef’s Action Statio’ (carved or presented items)

• Fresh Farmer’s Market salads

• Chef’s daily soup

• Artisan bread

• Local produce

• Vegetable presentations

• Mesclun salad

• Desserts and pastries

• Made-to-order waffle station

This isn’t your run-of-the-mill, strip-mall buffet fare. So far, the brunch has showcased on strawberries, cherries, golden watermelons, sushi, lamb, hazelnuts, pink shrimp, Dungeness crab, albacore tuna, potatoes, pears and local coffee roasters.

“The menu changes all the time to emphasize the season’s bounty,” Benson said. “One week we’ll feature our mushroom foraging industry with chanterelle’s. Another week we’ll showcase artisan cheeses, wild game, Oregon wines or Northwest beef.”

The day I enjoyed brunch, the state’s potato growers were holding court, unveiling purple potato candy and other edible delights. My personal favorite was the lamb chops served by SuDan Lamb.

In one month, Timberline’s concept attracted 10,000 diners. Because of its success, the Farmer’s Market Brunch Buffet is now a daily, year-round event.

“It’s been a great way to get people to visit us ,” Benson said. “At Timberline, you enjoy the food and take away a memory.”

Celebrating what makes Oregon taste so good

Much of Timberline’s success is derived by its partnership with Oregon’s food and wine producers. Each August through November, the Oregon Tourism Commission, also known as Travel Oregon, launches Oregon Bounty, which is a comprehensive campaign to tantalize taste buds in all seven regions of the state.

The Oregon Bounty campaign, which continues until Nov. 30, offers special events and menus urging locals (and lucky visitors) to try new wines, enjoy local produce, order distinctive dinners in fine eateries and attend harvest festivals around the state.

Photos by Deston Nokes.

The centerpiece of the campaign is a colorful, comprehensive Web site. At www.traveloregon.com, users can click on a region and surf specials in lodging, dining, festivals, wineries and breweries. It posts the fixed-price menus at participating restaurants. Also, there is an online recipe book using Oregon meats, fruits cheeses and nuts, all washed down with Oregon vintages.

Visit www.TravelOregon.com/Bounty for details. Contact Deston at Deston@globalfoodie.com.

COLORADO: Riviera Restaurant, a Glenwood Springs Treasure

globalfoodie — Sun, 27 Sep 2009 14:04:20 +0000

by Ron Stern

The dark exterior and 1940s neon sign belies what visitors find inside this Glenwood Springs, Colorado prize. Owner Colleen Stuart has remade what was formerly known as the Riviera Supper Club into her own vision. Now it’s just called the Riviera Restaurant and it’s both visually pleasing and the food is mouth watering.

The interior is surprisingly bright due to its 2005 facelift. Blond, natural hardwood tables and chairs, contemporary glass dishes and walls covered with vibrant paintings from local artists highlight the eatery. This has created a fun and inviting atmosphere conducive to hearty appetites.

My experience started with a pinktinis, a citrus flavored martini using x-rated fusion liqueur vodka. It was tart yet smooth. There are another 28 martinis and one is sure to fit your palate.

Next up was the Riviera signature salad ($6). This ample portion was creatively plated and chilled and simply comprised of Romaine lettuce blended with a smoky home-made bacon gorgonzola ranch dressing. The flavors matched each other perfectly and I can honestly say that this was one of my all time best salads. I would drive the 4 plus hours again just to have this salad.

The coconut tempura shrimp ($8) was my choice for an appetizer. This is a choice I’m always a little reluctant to make so far inland. However, I was pleasantly surprised by the freshness and flavor of these hand-battered, plump sea treasures. Accompanied by a sweet chili-ginger sauce, the sweetness of the sauce and crispy texture of the perfectly fried tempura worked well together.

For my main entrée I had the recommended Colorado rack of lamb with demi-glazed rosemary (seasonal), served with garlic mashed potatoes and mixed vegetables. Very few restaurants know how to prepare a good lamb. This one does and mine was tender, flavorful and succulent.

The evening was topped off with a traditional cold, rich, creamy and decadent chocolate mousse.

Dining at the Riviera has the feeling of a cozy art museum. There is even a huge painting of a martini fastened to the ceiling. Colleen Stuart goes to great lengths to ensure that her customers are well attended and that the food is always home-made and fresh. The Riviera is located at 702 Grand Ave. in Glenwood Springs, Colorado. They are open every night from 5 p.m.-10 p.m. and reservations are always a good idea at this popular local eatery.

Contact Ron at: Ron@globalfoodie.com.