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NEW HAMPSHIRE: Hey Mombo …

NEW HAMPSHIRE: Hey Mombo …

Enticing Fare in Portsmouth

Review by Rosemary Minati

Mombo, 66 Marcy Street, Portsmouth, NH  03801. Telephone:  603-433-2340.

Mombo isn’t just a culinary experience. No, this new eatery serves enticing visual fare too. My husband and I fell in love with this restaurant the moment we walked through the door. Located in a charming old  building, it has high-beamed ceilings, cozy seating areas, and a friendly crew,  giving it a warm and inviting feel.

Mombo’s granite bar extends into counter seating, an alternative to traditional table seating, offering guests an up-close-and-personal look into its open kitchen. Steve and I sat there and for our  evening “entertainment” we watched as Lawrence artistically created magnificent appetizers and desserts. He made and then served our cheese platter, offering an explanation of each cheese and its origin.

This restaurant is good for foodies who appreciate interesting spices, flavors and artistic presentation. Steve and I shared each course because everything looked so unique, fresh and tempting. The lobster bisque was creamy and rich. For entrees we chose fresh scallops that were cooked to perfection and a tender Kobe beef filet that was tender and juicy.

Dessert was a rich, dense chocolate torte with raspberries and cream. Chocolate is one of my guilty pleasures and I consider myself a bit of an expert. This did not disappoint and was “to die for.” As coffee lovers, we truly appreciated the individual French press pots of steaming rich coffee that came with dessert.

Chocolate torte. (Photo by Rosemary Minati.)

During our meal, as we enjoyed every morsel we watched as the chefs tested sauces and added ingredients to enhance each dish.  Our server was friendly and did a magnificent job. We will fondly remember this restaurant and will definitely return.

For more information visit: www.momborestaurant.com

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NEW HAMPSHIRE’S: Manor at Golden Pond Offers Vegan

NEW HAMPSHIRE’S: Manor at Golden Pond Offers Vegan

Award Winning Chef, Peter Sheedy, Offers Exceptional Vegan

by Emilie C. Harting

Set on a hill overlooking New Hampshire’s Squam Lake and the White Mountains, the Manor at Golden Pond, with its sprawling main house, croquet setups, swimming pool, and surrounding woods, brings to mind an English country house.  Books line the lower half of the walls in the spacious and light-filled main lounge.  The latest magazines and periodicals are at hand on coffee tables in front of comfortable chairs and couches, the chess games and jigsaw puzzles wait for players to come back and finish, and the all day tea on the sideboard speaks the language of relaxation.

The inn draws a diverse crowd of families, hikers who return each year in summer, skiers who come in winter, couples celebrating milestone events, and those who want to stay put and relax on the grounds. One family had bicycled a hundred miles north from Massachusetts so they could see their favorite ski area when it was green rather than snow covered. A sixty something couple, theater producers from New York, had motorcycled up from Long Island.  Other guests talked about how they like to come each year because they love the lake and mountains, and want to spend time on the grounds and in the spa.  However, food and wine are the major draw.

Chef Peter Sheedy has won accolades for his cuisine, which he calls New American, a fusion of New England classics with French, Thai and Spanish influences. The inn has also won awards from Wine Spectator for its food and wine pairing.  Though one of his favorite cooking moments is when the marbling of a roast has reached just the right point, he is equally exited by vegan food. He’s developed an exciting vegan tasting menu; but that you must order in advance. Translate: vegan means no animal products whatever.  Sheedy is a purist and uses vinegar and lemon juice rather than wine when creating vegan dishes because ox blood, egg whites, or some other kinds of animal protein, are often used in the clarification process. Providing vegan fare, he says, is as important as accommodating diets for guests with  allergies, medical conditions, or certain religious practices.  

Always alert for new trends, Chef  Sheedy  began developing vegan recipes as he worked in kitchens across the country—in New England, where he cooked in top restaurants and attended culinary school, in Oregon, where he stirred pots alongside a number of leading chefs, and in Atlanta, where he mentored the staff of a restaurant in the Marriott chain.  At each location he noticed a growing core of health conscious eaters who wanted vegan food. 

Dishes on both the traditional and vegan menus abound with flavors that one can only get from high quality produce that reaches the table soon after it is picked.  On the way to work, Sheedy often stops at local farmers’ markets in the surrounding valley.  He also rings up nearby growers who deliver.  In off seasons the vegetables and fruit come daily from special Boston purveyors.

Organic heirloom tomatoes in my tomato panzanella, a sliced bread and fresh tomato dish native to Tuscany, had their sweetness intact, and in my carrot and parsnip soup, the sweetness of the parsnips balanced out the slightly bitter carrot taste.

However, the highlight for me was the summer squash cannelloni stuffed with legumes and topped with crème sauce.  A base of shredded cauliflower mixed with fennel, and a stiff puree of garbanzos and white beans takes the place of the traditional cheese stuffing.  Each variety of beans has a subtle taste of its own, and Sheedy says that with several types of beans, mushrooms or apples, you get more than the sum of the parts.  He uses a cauliflower puree enriched with a good bit of extra virgin olive oil to make it as rich and satisfying as a traditional crème sauce.  Since cauliflower is mostly water, and oil and water don’t generally mix, he uses plant-derived liquid lecithin, a binder which is becoming increasingly common in vegan cooking because it emulsifies the way egg yolks do.

Also the particles of cauliflower help hold the ingredients together in the same way that a little mustard helps keep a vinaigrette smooth, or the way that whipping a bit of cream, along with the butter, into mashed potatoes before they begin to separate makes them seem less greasy.

Sheedy says that the vegan summer squash cannelloni is a variance of a dish that would usually have a lot of animal products in it.  The cheese filling of the traditional dish, for example, has a “platform” taste—rich neutral protein that is satisfying to the palate.  Pureed beans are an obvious substitute.  They’re rich in protein, and they readily take on the flavors of whatever seasonings they’re cooked with.  He says it’s fun to create this kind of “costume” dish—vegan food “dressed up” as traditional fare—but he warned me that even though the cannelloni was one of my favorites,  he doesn’t like to offer more than one or two dishes of this kind on a menu. “Vegan cooking, when it’s done well, can stand on its own merits, and doesn’t have to pretend to be something it’s not,” he said emphatically.


When I asked for advice on wine to pair with the cannelloni, Sheedy suggested 2006 Viognier, Callaway, a Coastal Reserve.  ”Viognier is a white wine varietal that is somewhat uncommon,” he said.  “It has traditionally been used in blended wines.  It is crisp and acidic, though, and has some ‘funky’ and floral qualities that will complement the cauliflower — which is a member of the cabbage family — and the herbaceous fennel).  Being on the richer side– with the cauliflower cream–this is the sort of food that will stand up to a slightly denser wine.”

Another favorite on the menu was the sweet corn risotto, which Sheedy said is an example of a vegan entree that does not imitate animal food.  He uses corn on the cob that’s a day or two out of the garden, high quality rice–carnaroli or abrorio–and excellent olive oil such as extra virgin California arbequina, which is buttery and delicately fruity.  He also chooses tofu that has been handled and stored properly.  When guests object to tofu because they say the flavor is objectionable, Sheedy tells them they have probably been eating tofu that was cooked along with subpar ingredients or was not properly stored.

Charring corn on the grill, he says, adds hints of smoke and bitterness.  The process combines the flavors of the rice and tofu, which are slightly floral but essentially neutral, with the corn, which is “flatly sweet.”  Without the charring of the corn, the dish could be quite “dull and pappy.”  On the other hand, that char flavor has to be added subtly; if there’s too much charring, the more delicate qualities of the other ingredients can be overwhelmed.

He finds that braising bean curd or tofu is a technique that makes it more appealing to those who have avoided it previously.  Tofu is virtually taste-neutral, and it absorbs flavors like few other foods.  It’s important to braise the outside of the curd in medium-hot oil; the process not only adds flavor, but it also gives it a little bit of a crust.  The result is a textual contrast between the slightly chewy exterior and the silky inside.

For the sweet corn risotto Sheedy advised a 2007 New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Brancott, Reserve, for the sweet corn risotto.  “It’s is a crisp, dry white and tartly acidic — the sour wine contrasts the sweetness of the dish, and the more subtle qualities of the wine are highlighted by the contrast.  Like many New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs the Brancott has wide-ranging tropical fruit and floral notes that fit with the sweetness and floral character of the corn.”

Near the end of my stay, I was in heaven while slowing eating Sheedy’s sorbet in the Van Horn Dining Room with its dark woodwork, splashes of flowered wallpaper, and mullioned windows.  Sorbet has long been the preferred dessert of vegans because it is pure and does not contain any animal fat.  The delicacy may date back to the Roman Emperor Nero, and is said to have been brought from Italy to France in the 16th century by Catherine de’ Medici.  How succulent it is now when the chef uses fresh fruit from a New Hampshire Valley.

For more information visit: www.manorongoldenpond.com

Summer Squash Cannelloni (on Chef Sheedy’s tasting menu):

Serves Two

Ingredients:

1 medium-sized zucchini

1 medium-sized fennel bulb, diced fine

1/2 medium-sized onion, diced fine

1/4 cup garbanzo beans, dry

1/2 cup cannelloni (white) beans, dry

2 shallots, peeled and diced fine

1 parsnip, peeled and diced medium

1/2 head cauliflower

1 ml liquid, plant-extracted lecithin

1/2 cup very high quality extra-virgin olive oil

3 drops (2 ml) white truffle oil

2 cloves garlic, slivered

3 sprigs thyme

juice of 1 lemon

neutral vegetable (soy) oil as needed

kosher salt as needed

black pepper as needed

1/8 th cup micro arugula

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar reduced to a think syrup

For the Zucchini “Pasta”

Cut the ends off the zucchini. Using a mechanical deli slicer or very sharp vegetable slicer, cut the zucchini from end-to-end into 1/8th inch slabs. In a pot of boiling, salted water blanch the slabs of zucchini for about 20 seconds so that they are flexible enough to roll around the fennel-legume stuffing.

For the Fennel-Legume Stuffing

In a medium-sized, non-reactive pot, combine two sprigs of thyme, the diced onion, 1 of the diced shallots, 1 clove of slivered garlic, the diced fennel and the diced parsnip. Toss with a pinch of kosher salt and a tablespoon of neutral vegetable oil. Set over a medium-low flame. Cover with a parchment paper lid and sweat, stirring occasionally, until very soft and fragrant, about 20 min. Do not allow the vegetables to brown. Once the vegetables are soft, add the dried beans to the pot and enough water to cover by four inches. Bring to a simmer and cook until the beans are soft, about 1 hour. Drain the beans, reserving their cooking liquid. Remove the thyme spring from the cooked beans and puree. Pass the resulting puree through a fine-meshed sieve to ensure a silky texture. If the puree is too stiff — the texture should be fairly soft, like the texture of the warm ricotta it’s intended to mimic — thin it slightly with the reserved cooking liquid. Hold warm.

For the Cauliflower Cream

In a small, non-reactive pot, combine one of the thyme sprigs, one of the diced

shallots, one of the cloves of garlic, and most of the cauliflower (reserve four of the choicest florets for use as a garnish). Toss with a pinch of salt, half of the lemon juice and 2 tablespoons of neutral vegetable oil. Set over a medium-low flame and cover with a parchment paper lid. Sweat until the cauliflower is very soft and fragrant, about 30 minutes.

Once the cauliflower is fully cooked, remove the thyme sprig and puree, thinning tothe consistency of heavy cream with the reserved cooking liquid from the beans. After the cauliflower cream has been adjusted to the correct consistency, force it through a chinois to ensure it is silky smooth and homogeneous. Hold warm.

For the Cauliflower Garnish

Slice the cauliflower florets into four, 1/2-inch thick slabs. Season with a pinch of salt and pat dry with absorbent paper towels. In a small saute pan, heat an 1/8th of an inch of neutral vegetable oil until it flows readily around the pan and shimmers slightly. Add the cauliflower to the pan, pressing down gently. When the cauliflower is crisp and well browned on one side, remove with a slotted spatula and place on absorbent paper to blot away any excess oil. Finish with a sprinkle of kosher salt.

To Finish and Plate

Spoon a small quantity of the fennel-legume stuffing onto each of four blanched zucchini ribbons. Roll the zucchini around the filling gently so it doesn’t crack or break. Smooth any excess filling off the ends of the zucchini rolls. Arrange two of the zucchini rolls in the center of each of two plates. Flash the plates in a moderate oven briefly to warm the zucchini. Top each with a grind of fresh black pepper from the mill and the remaining lemon juice. Combine the cauliflower cream, truffle oil, liquid lecithin and extra-virgin olive oil in an over-sized bowl. Season to taste with kosher salt. Using an immersion blender submerged only two thirds in the cauliflower cream mixture, blend the ingredients together until they are emulsified and slightly foamy. Use a serving spoon to draw some of the liquid from the beneath the foam. Use until it has the ability to coat the back of a spoon.    Top each cannelloni with a crisped slice of cauliflower. Use the foam from the cauliflower cream to top the browned cauliflower florets, dotting some around the plate. Dress the micro arugula with a few drops of extra virgin olive oil and arrange above the zucchini cannelloni. Drizzle the plate near the cannelloni with some of the balsamic vinegar reduction. Serve immediately.

Reach Emilie at: echarting@hotmail.com. You can view more of her work at: www.emilieharting.com.

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GET OUT AND GRILL

GET OUT AND GRILL

SPICE WINGS WITH THIS FLAVORSOME RUB AND MARINADE

By Peter Francis Battaglia

I’m not one of those chili and hot sauce fanatics, however, I love the intensity of heat, sweetness and the all around flavor profile it adds when one is not stupid with the amount added to a dish.  If you are at all put off by hot foods, maybe you’ve been force fed too much heat in a particular
recipe.  My style is to add the touch of heat, and its flavor and then put some extra heat on the side. You be the judge on how hot you want your food.

Personally, I put chili flakes on tons of my dishes, over and above what my recipes call for. And that is my decision — to make it hotter for my palate, but your palate I must respect.  Over the weekend — with the sun shining, no wind, no humidity, just perfect Jersey Shore weather — I had to grill.

One of my favorite grilled items are chicken wings.  Recently I had bought in the Mexican section of Shop-Rite, a variety of chili powders in the Mexican section of Shop-Rite. Not the American multi-ingredient blend, but powders made of a single type of chili.  I purchased a bag of Arbol Chili Powder and one of Pequin (or Bird) Chili Powder.  Nothing in the bags except the finely ground flesh of those particular peppers. Both carry a searing heat.  So why would I use one of these on a wing recipe?  Heat and wings are a classic combo and Buffalo Wings are a perfect example. My girls had a friend over for the weekend and wings seemed to easily fit the bill.

I started with a rub

1 tbs. granulated garlic; 1/2 tsp. brown sugar; 1 tsp. oregano; 1/2 tsp. black pepper; 1 tsp. Pequin chile powder (OMG it’s sooo good): 1 tsp. kosher salt; 1 tsp. thyme leaves; 1/2 tsp. cinnamon; 1/2 tsp. sage.

Blend this well.  Now add 20 chicken wings, washed and dried with paper towels. Coat the wings and let them sit covered in the refrigerator for one hour.  Mix 3 tbs. olive oil, 4 tbs. of balsamic vinegar and pour over the wings. Let it all marinade for one more hour.

Turn your grill to high 15 minutes before you start cooking the wings. Keep the cover on. In a large foil tray layer the wings and sprinkel 4 tbs. of soy sauce over the wings and add a little more oil. Place the foil tray on the rack and let them cook undisturbed for 10 minutes. Then turn the wings and let them cook another 10 minutes. They should be nice and golden. Turn the wings and let them cook another 10 minutes.  They should be nice and golden now.

Carefully remove the partially cooked wings from the on and place them on an oiled grill. Lower the heat to low and cook for another five minutes on each side.

Garnish the hot wings with fresh sage and thyme. This adds a little more flavorto the wing and gives it an earthy and fragrant herb essence. To finish these wings my way,  add a squirt or two of my favorite condiment Sriracha Rooster Chili Sauce.

I love this stuff so much I actually posed the bottle. I think it’s photogenic, don’t you? A little of this drizzled over the wings adds more depth and just the right amount of heat without leaving your screaming for the NYFD to put out the fire in your throat.

Isn’t that pretty — or handsome? The different chilies, with soy, which does wonders for the color of the wings, and the tenderizing tang and carmelizing properties of the balsamic all make these wings special. The car from the grills adds more intensity. Serve this with homemade kidney or pinto beans.  I sauteed a strip of smoked pork jowl (a staple in my freezer — don’t make fun of me, I’m sensitive) in some vegetable oil; added a diced small onion; 1 sliced clove of garlic; and let it all meld together. Then I  added 1 can of beans with half the liquid poured off. To that I added 1/4 cup of ketchup (Heinz preferably); 1 tsp of mustard powder; 1/2 tsp. pequin chil (just because); 1/2 tsp. salt; 1/2 tsp. black pepper; 1 tsp. molasses; 1 tbs. brown sugar. Mix well and let this simmer on low for about 45 minutes. It beats that can of B&M in the pantry.

Check out those beans, the perfect foil for the wings. This summer, spring or whatever your grilling season, experiment with rubs, oils and chilies. And try a few side dishes too. If you need some extra help post a comment on my blog and I’ll do my best. Life is too short to waste it on the same old same old. Get out and grill. It’s the season!

This article appears on Peter Francis Battaglia’s site where you may leave your comments. It’s:  www.blog.afoodobsession.com/2010/04/12/get-out-and-grill–spice-your-wings-up-with-this-flavorsome-rub-and-marinade.aspx.

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LOUISIANA: ‘Tis the Season for … Crawdads, AKA Mud Bugs

LOUISIANA: ‘Tis the Season for … Crawdads, AKA Mud Bugs

Don’t Leave Louisiana without Tasting Crawdads, at Least Once

Text and photographs by Vivienne Mackie

You’re sitting with the sun, warm on your face, sounds of jazz music drifting round the corner.  This is New Orleans, and you suspect there’ll be a taste adventure.  You ask the waiter for suggestions and he says, “Crawdads.”

Market in Louisiana. Photo by Vivenne Mackie.

“Crawdads?” you ask.  You’d been thinking of lobster.  But no, the waiter is insistent; it must be crawdads.

“What are these crawdads?” Well, let me tell you.

It starts with a legend. When the Acadians left Nova Scotia they were  friendly with the lobsters there.  King Lobster decided to follow the Acadians south.  It was a long, hard journey and they all got thin and small, so the lobsters shrunk to about 6 inches.  Because they’d crawled the whole way, they were nicknamed crawdads.  Some people call them toy lobsters, and the flavor really is similar to that of lobster.

Crayfish, crawfish, crawdads, mud bugs — by any name these tiny crustaceans are delicious.  Our friend, Gary H, from Louisiana says, “North 0f the Mason-Dixon line the Yankees call them crayfish.  South, we call them crawfish or crawdads.”

Crawfish is called “ecrivesse” in France, and “yabby” in Australia.  Many festivals around Louisiana salute the mud bug with country fairs, blues and zydeco music.  Once considered a food of the poor, it is now a staple of the state’s diverse food culture.

Sign for crawfish. Photo by Vivienne Mackie.

You’ll see crawfish advertised everywhere in New Orleans, its bright red face looking out from billboards and brochures. Cartoons of the sharp-clawed crustaceans parade on souvenir T-shirts and festival posters.  The creature features on nearly every menu from classy restaurants in the French Quarter to no-frills diners near bayous, especially in springtime, and there’s even a series of kids’ books about Clovis Crawfish.

Visitors from around the world are amazed at the variety and volume of Louisiana seafood. Louisiana leads the nation in commercial production of fish and shellfish — oysters, shrimp, crawfish, and crabs.  This seafood, plentiful in the bayous and the Gulf, is an important part of the region’s economy.  Much of the crawfish, a basic ingredient of many tasty Cajun and Creole dishes, grows wild in the freshwater wetlands of the Atchafalaya Basin.  But now farmers, especially rice farmers, often flood portions of their land and set wire traps for the crawfish harvest.  One field can produce 1,500 pounds of crawfish a day at the height of the season.

Commercial aquaculture of crawfish started in the 1960’s, where the creatures were farmed in large shallow ponds and caught in semi-submerged steel cages. Farmed crawfish are usually peeled and frozen in a processing factory, but those from local waterways (called Basin Crawfish on roadside stands) are cooked and brought to the table.   Louisianans love crawfish so they eat much of the catch themselves, but they do leave some for export!  In some Acadian restaurants you’ll see a sign ”No Chinese crawfish” because some Chinese importers have tried to flood the market with cheap tail meat. See here for more on a dispute: www1.american.edu/TED/crawfish.htm. However, more has been imported from China recently, and now Spain also wants to export crawfish to the United States.

Going crawfishing is fun for the whole family and kids are good at catching the crawfish, which always seem to be hungry and are easily caught with a piece of meat tied to the end of a of a string. They are found in rivers, bayous, ponds, ditches, and flooded swampy areas.  The season is from early December to mid-July, but the crawfish are best from February to May, when there’s always plenty of water around.

When alive the mud bugs come in many colors—green, yellow, beige, deep maroon—but, when boiled, they are all are a deep red, which they must be for one to extract the meat.  Because they live in mud, they must be soaked in clean salted water for at least 15 minutes and well rinsed.

After catching comes the glorious but messy joy of feasting!

Feasting on crawdads. Photo by Vivienne Mackie.

Crawfish are boiled with a special boiling spice mix, (called crab boil mix and used for both blue crabs and crawfish) usually along with whole small red potatoes and sweet corn on the cob. The spiciness varies according to taste. Gary thinks the best crab boil mix is made by Zatarans in New Orleans.

The most popular casual way to eat them is at a Crawfish Boil, served with plenty of cold beer, and chilled white or red wine, either with friends or in a restaurant.  Visitors can look for signs saying Hot Boiled Crawfish, at a special eatery known as a “Boiling Point,” where servings are on aluminium beer trays set on plastic tablecloths.  Or, try a restaurant that has a special table with a hole in the center where you throw shells and debris.

According to Gary the prices vary, and rise and fall like the stock market. “In a normal year, they start at $2 per pound (alive) at the beginning of the season, and by April you can get them for $0.35 a pound (alive). If you buy them already cooked then they are around $3 per pound.” If you order online, you can find prices as low as $2.90 (true on February 2, 2010 on www.selectcrawfish.com )

At times, the Louisiana Crawfish Farmers’ Association tries to regulate the prices, especially if the prices go too low.  For example, this association, which has 1,100 members (the majority of about 1,600 farmers in Louisiana), voted in 2008 to stop harvesting two days a week in hopes of tightening supplies after a steep drop in wholesale prices.

Crawfish are served “by the order,” usually 5-6 lb per person. They are small, so you need a lot to make a meal. The average size is about the size of a man’s thumb.  Gary tries to put these amounts in perspective. “A local bar here in Hammond, and my favorite hang-out place, called ‘Crescent’, has an annual crawfish boil at the time of the Final Four. They cook 3,000 pounds of crawfish. A typical crawfish boil party here in Louisiana has around 200 pounds.”

The tail meat and the fat and liver inside the heads are the edible parts. Break head and tail apart and suck, peel tail and devein the meat, then “gleefully devour it.  It melts on your tongue, caresses your taste buds, and is ten times better than Maine lobster.” (Howard Mitcham, in “Creole Gumbo and all that Jazz.”) With practice, afficionados can schuck these crawdads with one hand, holding a Dixie beer in the other.

This devouring is messy and the red pepper in the boil mix may burn your hands, but it’s all considered part of the process.  Please remember to wash your hands before going to the bathroom, at strategically placed washbasins in the “boiling points.”

Red boiled and ready to devour, crawdads. Photo by Vivienne Mackie.

The most popular way to eat crawfish is by boiling, but there are other ways to prepare them. World-renowned Antoine’s Restaurant in New Orleans has a famous Crawfish Cardinale.  Many places serve Crawfish Etouffee (pronounced A-2-Fay), a Cajun dish of crawfish smothered in a delicious dark roux sauce.  Other staple Cajun dishes are Crawfish Stew, Crawfish Jambalaya, and Crawfish Bisque.

In New Orleans, French Quarter “tourist traps” use superlatives like “serving the best crawfish in the French Quarter, in New Orleans, in Louisiana” and have decor with lots of Mardi Gras items featured with an abundance of neon lights. However, the unpretentious places often have better crawfish.

Around New Orleans try these great places:

1) Morton’s, in Madisonville on the Tchefuncte River. This is Gary’s all-time favorite, so he took us there. Servings are suitably huge and messy and the beer keeps coming.

2) Don’s, in Hammond.

In the city of New Orleans try:

1) Acme’s Oyster Bar, 724 Iberville, Telephone: 504-522-5973

2) Mothers, 401 Poydras, Telephone: 504-523-9656

3) Casamento’s, 4330 Magazine Street, Telephone: 504-895-9761 (on the border with the Garden District)

Po Boy shops are good for fast food and sometimes have crawfish. In summer, boiled crabs and shrimp are also popular.

FOR MORE INFORMATION

For the history and statistics of crawfish visit: www.crawfish.org.

To purchase crawfish: www.KIcrawfishfarms.comwww.selectcrawfish.com; or www.lacrawfish.com.

For general information on New Orleans visit: www.neworleans.cvb.com, www.crescentcity.com.

Vivienne Mackie may be reached at: vivienne.mackie@gmail.com. Read her blogs: www.viviennemackie.wordpress.com ;  Web Site: www.web.mac.com/vmackie/iweb/VivienneMackieProfile; Writing on Helium: www.helium.com/users/422547.

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OREGON: Chef Buehler’s Moroccan Braised Lamb and Pairs

OREGON: Chef Buehler’s Moroccan Braised Lamb and Pairs

Tickling my Inner Caveman

By Deston Nokes

Channelling Deston's Inner Caveman.

Channelling Deston's Inner Caveman.

Rarely have I felt so conflicted on how to begin eating such a gorgeous mountain of lamb, pears and shallots. My inner Fred Flintstone wanted to grab the leg bone and gnaw with unrestrained relish, but the sophisticated ambiance of Portland’s Lauro Kitchen (www.laurokitchen.com), and my refined dinner companions kept my primitive urges in check.

We gathered to enjoy Braised Lamb Shank with Caramelized Pears and Shallots, which was created by Lauro Kitchen’s executive chef Jennifer Buehler. She recently received national acclaim for her artistry by the Pear Bureau Northwest. Chef Buehler is serving her winning recipe at Lauro Kitchen throughout March.

Our meal started with Cataplana, a tasty Portuguese seafood dish of roasted mussels, choriso, peppers, tomatoes and onions; finished in the Lauro Kitchen’s blue tile oven.

The lamb entrée came on a bed of couscous and was framed by carmelized red Anjou pears and shallots. Each bite of the tender meat brought a mouth-watering rush of spicy sweetness.

Braised lamb shank with carmelized pears and shallots. Photo courtesy of Pears Bureau Northwest.

Braised lamb shank with carmelized pears and shallots. Photo courtesy of Pears Bureau Northwest.

“It’s a Moroccan dish,” Buehler said. “I just strive to do the traditional dishes right – it’s not about fusion cuisine. The pears do provide a Pacific Northwest influence, and the tanginess is from the cranberries. The nutty flavor is from almonds and there are hints of saffron, ginger and cinnamon.

“I want the diners to wonder what they’re tasting. As you eat the dish, the different robust and sweet flavors are revealed.”

The lamb shank certainly was enough to capture the fancy of the Pear Bureau’s judges.

“It struck us as the quintesstial spring entree,” says Kevin Moffitt, president and CEO of Pear Bureau Northwest. “Her pairing of savory braised lamb shanks with sweet, carmelized pears is one of the best ways to enjoy a pear this spring.”

The recipe’s emphasis on pears is a natural for the region since Oregon and Washington pears account for 89 percent of the nation’s pears. The fruit’s primary plucking season is in August, but they are available year round. For more about the region’s pear industry, go to www.pearpanache.com.

Lauro Kitchen.

Lauro Kitchen.

Chef de Cuisine Jennifer Buehler has been cooking since she was a child in Independence, Missouri. After a quick stint in computer sales, Buehler returned to the kitchen, graduating from the Western Culinary Institute in Portland, Ore.

With Lauro Kitchen’s Mediterranean cuisine, Buehler can draw upon many different styles and ingredients to create elegant masterpieces. Started in 2003 by famed Portland chef and restaurant entrepreneur David Machado, the Lauro Kitchen was one of the first establishments to kick off Portland’s east side dining craze.

“David was always a downtown guy, operating Pazzo’s and Southpark, but he believed he could succeed by bringing the same high-end cuisine, with lower prices, to the east-side neighborhoods,” said Lindsey McBride, Portland food publicist.

“Years ago, we had very few dining options. One had to go downtown for a nice night out.”

(Lauro Kitchen is known for its hour of happiness menu Monday through Sunday from 5 – 6 p.m., which features select dishes at 2003 prices. The restaurant’s towering chalkboard also lists new specials each day: A special pizza, fresh fish, cocktails and dessert. Lauro Kitchen’s dedicated pastry chef, Nancy Forrest, absolutely blew us away with a chocolate caramel tart topped with sprinkles of sea salt. )


For more information:

Lauro Kitchen

3377 SE Division #106

Portland, OR 97202
Telephone: 503.239.7000

www.laurokitchen.com

About the author:

Deston Nokes wrote a new iPhone app: PORTLAND ESSENTIALS. It highlights the best things to see, do and eat in Portland. With 210 entries and more than 1,500 photos, it’s a delicious resource for those who live here, and for those coming to visit. Entries are listed by category and each links to a Web site and phone number. It includes cost and operating-hour information. Best of all, each has its own GPS to guide you right to the door. This new application is for sale on iTunes for only $2.99.

Braised Lamb Shank with Caramelized Pears and Shallots
by Chef de Cuisine Jennifer Buehler

SERVES 4 to 6

Braise

4         lamb shanks, preferably raised in Oregon, 16 to 20-ounces each

2         tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1         medium onion, roughly chopped

1         tablespoon finely chopped garlic

2         tablespoons finely chopped or grated fresh ginger

1-1/2   teaspoons saffron

1-1/2   teaspoons ground cinnamon

1-1/2   teaspoons ground ginger

1-1/2   teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1/2      teaspoon cayenne pepper

4         bay leaves

1         cinnamon stick

1/2      cup whole almonds

2         quarts chicken stock

1/2      cup dried cranberries

Caramelized Pears and Shallots

1         ounces (2 tablespoons) unsalted butter

1         tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

8         small, whole shallots

2         Bosc pears, peeled, cored and sliced into 1/2″-thick wedges

1/4      cup granulated sugar

Couscous, as accompaniment

Parsley, to garnish

Plain yogurt, served on side

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Prepare the lamb by seasoning liberally with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat the oil in a heavy, wide saute pan until it is very hot, but not smoking. Brown the lamb shanks 2 at a time, turning them so that each side is dark golden brown and crusty, about 12 minutes total. Remove the shanks from the pan.

Reduce the heat under the saute pan to medium high and add the onions, garlic and ginger. Cook stirring frequently until the onions begin to caramelize slightly and pick up the color and scrapings leftover from browning the meat, about 5 minutes. Put the shanks in a deep, wide casserole, or a roasting pan. They should fit closely, in a single layer, leaving enough room in the pan to be covered with stock. A lid that fits well is helpful.

Add the sauteed onion, garlic and ginger to the lamb shanks along with the saffron, ground cinnamon, ground ginger, black and cayenne peppers, bay leaves, cinnamon stick and almonds. Cover the shanks with the chicken stock adding a bit of water if necessary to cover them completely. Cover tightly and braise for about 3-1/2 hours, adding the dried cranberries during the last 30 minutes. The lamb should be very tender and falling off the bone.

To finish the sauce, melt the butter in a saute pan with the oil over medium heat. If the shallots are larger than a small walnut, peel and separate into as many cloves as possible, or trim the root end without removing it completely. Halve or quarter the larger shallots; the root will hold the layers together. Add shallots to the pan and saute gently until they begin to soften slightly, about 5 minutes. Add the pear slices and sugar and continue to saute until everything is golden brown, about 15 minutes. Add some chicken stock or water if the sugar begins to get dark.

Remove the lamb shanks from the braising liquid. Transfer the braising liquid to a separate saucepan (there should be about 6 cups), put the shanks back in the braising pan and keep them warm. Add the pears and shallots to the braising liquid and reduce slightly. It will already be fairly thick. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper as needed.

To serve, while the sauce is reducing, put the couscous on a larger platter and arrange the lamb shanks on top. Garnish with some pear slices and shallots and spoon the reduced sauce over the meat. Sprinkle with parsley and serve with plain yogurt on the side.

Posted in Deston Nokes, FoodDetails or FoodieTales, Northwest, Raves and Reviews, U.S. Cuisine & TravelComments (0)

VERMONT: The Pitcher Inn

VERMONT: The Pitcher Inn

ELEGANT FOOD AND DESIGN IN

VERMONT’S MAD RIVER VALLEY

The Pitcher Inn. Photo by Emilie C. Harting.

The Pitcher Inn. Photo by Emilie C. Harting.

by Emilie C. Harting

The front entrance of the Pitcher Inn hugs the side of the road on Main Street in the charming village of Warren, Vermont. Here the cadences of everyday life slow down. Often, the only sounds are the wrens and sparrows, the flow of the river behind the general store across the country lane, and the rustling of wind. David Sellars and a group of architects and designers have built an almost exact recreation of the old Warren Inn, which stood on the site until it was destroyed by fire in the mid-1990s. I was there for two days before I knew that the inn was not the original structure, built around 1850, at a time when guests would step out of their carriages and walk directly onto the front porch to avoid dust and rain. The Warren General Store, the bakery, and several other white clapboard buildings across the street have also been restored, giving the village the feel of an earlier time.

At 275 Main, the inn’s spacious restaurant, tables and colonial chairs are spread across the room so that diners cannot actually hear each other’s conversations. A brick colonial fireplace with antique copper and iron pots, various turners, and stoking implements fills one wall. They are typical of the implements produced at mills in the Warren area during the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. On a recent summer evening, the blend of light classical music, the soft buzz of attentive staff conversing with guests over food and wine choices, and the muted light of candles created an atmosphere of elegance.

General Manager Ari Sadri, who is also trained as a sommelier, moved around the dining room, conversing with guests. The inn has 600 bottles in the wine cellar and 1200 in storage. Sadri says that the wine program is deliberately eclectic, and thus they have wines from all over the world. He does not buy from big companies, but looks for older, generational, and artisanal wine makers so that guests, especially those who are wine connoisseurs, have the opportunity to experience something unique.

Since I am interested in how the pairing of food and wine enhances food’s flavors, I put myself in Ari’s hands rather than venturing out on my own. On one evening, he chose a sweet red Montepulciano from Tuscany, which he advised was a mellow line between dry and sweet, and thus would go with our appetizers of garganelli, a combination of pasta with roasted tomatoes, capers and olives, and bucatini, a combination of mussels, tomatoes and chorizo. The bucatini was especially tasty because sweetness of the chorizo cancelled out the briny taste of the mussels and the slight tartness of the summer tomatoes. The entree of sautéed chicken with parmesan bread crumbs was tender and without a trace of graininess. And the vegetable and fish flavors in the sautéed wild striped bass with clams, mussels, roasted tomatoes, and olives were melded so well that there was not a trace of tartness coming through.

On another night, a white wine with golden highlights complemented our pasta dishes and the veal scallops with mushrooms, leeks, and marsala. The result was a sweet, mellow taste. In their salads, the flavors of tenderly cooked fresh summer vegetables mixed well with Italian and Vermont cheeses and local meat or fish brought in from Boston. Sue Schickler explains that the menu is basically American with an infusion of Italian and Spanish influences. “I really enjoy preparing the items on the menus. It’s fun and more casual than a strictly traditional cuisine, and we get lots of compliments from our guests. For each meal we have a pasta, steak and fish dish, so there are plenty of choices.” She says that in summer, they depend heavily on the excellent fresh produce and meats in the Mad River Valley, which have their own succulent flavors. In winter she uses more root vegetables and spices.

Creamy polenta was one of the most memorable dishes because of its smooth and delicate flavor, which she says was made with marscarpone, a relatively low-fat triple-creme Italian cream cheese from Lombardy. “It’s the same cheese that is used in tiramisu, except that in Tiramisu the eggs make it lighter.” Schickler’s gift with cheeses was also evident in the breakfast omelet with goat cheese, fresh Vermont heirloom tomatoes, and basil.

When I told her the marinated beets seemed a perfect line between sweetness and tartness, Chef Schickler told me they were marinated with vinegar, sugar, and tarragon. “Guests love them. We make up a huge batch at a time. The beets, along with beef carpaccio salad with lemon dressed arugula and parmigiano reggiano are frequently requested by returning diners.”

Because we ate there in August when local produce was at its prime, our salads contained fresh eggplant, escarole, arugula, peppers and heirloom tomatoes. In the evening our appetizers often had corn, leeks and peppers, which had been marinated so that subtle flavors emerged.

Between breakfast and lunch, there was plenty of time to take drives on some of the Mad River Valley’s most scenic roads. Ari Sadri directed us on an oval-shaped journey through the Mad River Valley, up Route 100 north to Waitsfield, where we stopped to visit The Store, a world class kitchen supply and antique store in a restored barn, the Mad River Glass Gallery, and Cabin River Quilts, both in the center of Waitsfield on Main Street. On our return, we drove south past breathtaking vistas of horse and dairy farms against the mountains.

On a late day stroll past the Warren’s cemetery and Town Hall, I met a guest from the Washington, D.C. area who comes here every year and never leaves the village. “Where ever could you find such a picture perfect place? It’s so restorative. For lunch all I need is a sandwich from the general store, and I eat it out on the deck overlooking the Mad River.” He told me to come back to Warren for the best small town July 4th parade in New England. “Just make sure to stay in the Chester Arthur Room so that you get the vest view.”

Each of the eleven rooms at the Pitcher Inn has a unique décor, and reflects everyday life in Vermont during past centuries. We stayed in The Lodge, which has a ceiling depicting stars on a Christmas night. The furniture, all hand hewn by noted designers, included a bed inspired by Cleopatra’s, and a fireplace with the triangular design of the Masons, who were important in small town Vermont life.

Throughout the halls owner Maggie Smith’s décor of Vermont antiques and early American landscape paintings makes one stop for reflection. I was delighted to learn that some characters in the paintings were gathered together over food.

Check out: www.pitcherinn.com for holiday packages. The inn is in the heart of the Mad River Valley ski country. Sugarbush Ski Resort is right down the road, and guests cross country ski at a nearby park. Not only is the inn a great place to spend a weekend, but the restaurant is open to outsiders, and the entire inn can be rented out for destination weddings and retreats.

Posted in Emilie C. Harting, Northeast, U.S. Cuisine & TravelComments (0)

Edible Durango

Edible Durango

A Small Colorado Town with Big Eats

By Ron Stern

Durango is tucked neatly alongside the San Juan Mountains in the southwest portion of Colorado, a spot that’s always been on my food destination list. Last month while there I found a small town with more local restaurants per capita than San Francisco – and just as diverse.

Sometimes referred to as the “City of Brewerly Love,” the town boasts four brew pubs, each with its own distinctive local food specialties and of course, beer.

Awarded Durango’s Best Breakfast multiple times by the Durango Herald, Carvers not only serves up egg and pancake combos in its outdoor beer garden, but also something called a Razzmosa, which is a tantalizing concoction of raspberry wheat ale, orange juice, a dash of chambord and a squeeze of lime.

Steamworks Brewing Company makes award-winning lagers, ales and stouts, but also has dishes sure to satisfy lumberjack-sized appetites. While scanning the menu the Cajun boil caught my eye. I was with friends, so we ordered enough for two. After clearing a space and laying down some brown paper, this hot-steamy cornucopia of crustaceans was poured from a giant cauldron and spread out to fill half the table. This included pounds of Cajun-spiced crabs, shrimp, crawfish, andouille susage, corn and potatoes. Add a cold brewsky and I was transported to the shores of the Louisiana bijou and culinary heaven.

durango-seafood

Durango has non-alcoholic beverages covered as well. Zuberfizz Soda Company makes its own version of what soda pop should taste like with San Juan mountain water and pure cane sugar instead of fructose. I tasted a grape soda and a key lime and it was fresher and more vibrant other sodas on the market. Zuberfizz has a full line of flavors including Cocoa Fizz chocolate soda, the aroma of which can fill up the inside of a car just by opening the bottle.

One of the nice things about Durango is that nothing is far away. There are multiple coffee shops (yes even a Starbucks) that offer endless permutations of java or mocha this or that. At any time of day you can find locals, backpackers, bikers and tourists crowded into their comfy confines enjoying good company or accessing the internet via WiFi.

Oscars Café is one of the more popular hangouts for the breakfast crowd and is located in a non-descript strip mall. People line up at the door of the early 1950’s-style diner for mouth-watering meals that include blueberry pancakes, French toast, eggs with green chili. It all comes with out-of-this-world hash browns. I was told those fried potato gems take a couple of days to make and have a combination of spices – one of the most closely guarded secrets of Durango.

durango-oscars

I stayed at the historic Rochester Hotel, which has quite a colorful connection with Hollywood. All of the rooms are themed after Western movies filmed in the area. The most notable: Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid and City Slickers. Those popular movies gave way to the city’s other nickname: the Hollywood of the Rockies.

Breakfast is included at the Rochester and later in the day they have a jar filled with cookies. The gingersnaps, served on weekends were chewy and delicious and are now on my list for my top 10 cookies. Not to be outdone however, is a little bakery on the end of town known simply as Bread. They also have huge gingersnaps and are now just only slightly ahead of the Rochester’s on my list.

While there I was told that Bread has some of the best sandwiches this side of the continental divide. I’ve heard that before, so I ordered a simple BLT. Yes, it now has my vote for the best bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich. (Maybe I should start another list?) The old-world-style bread is made in large ovens and has a crispy crust covering the soft fragrant bread. The bacon must be something custom ordered and was thick, plentiful and bursting with flavor. This alone would be enough to convince me to drive the seven hours from my Fort Collins home for another round.

durango-blt

I know there were more places to visit and a lot more food, but having packed on more than a few pounds it was time to enjoy some of the outdoor adventures and natural beauty that makes Durango so famous. I will save all those undiscovered food gems for another day.

Resources:

Carvers www.carversbrewing.com

Steamworks Brewing Company www.steamworkdsbrewing.com

Zuberfizz www.zuberfizz.com

Oscars Café (970) 247 0526

Rochester Hotel www.rochesterhotel.com

Bread (970) 247-5100

Posted in Ron Stern, U.S. Cuisine & Travel, WestComments (0)

Louisiana Chocolate Pie

Louisiana Chocolate Pie

By Kaye Hurst

Mom’s Chocolate Pie

october_3_2009_009

A special friend of my daughter’s called to check on her after a recent surgery. An immediate connection was made and we were old friends from way back. We talked about my daughter’s recovery – she’s doing better, thank you for asking – and about the food I brought her house as she rested and mended.

“Comfort food, that’s what they needed,” I told her. I had prepared chicken and dumplings and a chocolate pie.

“’What’s chocolate pie,’” she asked. “’Is it like Derby Pie?’”

I was in shock. Could someone really not know about chocolate pie? Apparently, yes.

Chocolate Pie is a sacred rite of passage in our family. I’ve already given my granddaughter, Lauren, her first three lessons on the art of chocolate pie making. There are many more to come. The women in our family love chocolate pie. It started with my grandmother, Ann Burns Jackson. Ann trained her girls Zada, Sadie, Rose and Bonnie to prepare chocolate pie. Aunt Sadie and my mom, Rose, honed their chocolate pie skills over the years. They are both in their 80’s now. In fact my mom is still making chocolate pie and doing hair in a small shop in Alabama — but that is a whole other story.

We all use the same recipe, however I still haven’t mastered the pie crust. For our clan a perfect shopping day starts with a piece of chocolate pie and a Coca Cola TM. Every holiday is celebrated with a pie of some type, whether pumpkin, lemon or apple, but, no matter what, there is always a chocolate pie in the house.

off-the-beaten-path-la-214

There’s a reason that pie is always on the table or being taken to a sick one’s home. When life is kicking you in the rear end chocolate pie make life all right. Oh yes, it does.

Almost everyone here in Louisiana will agree, when you have chocolate pie it just makes everything right in the world. When something is wrong or life just isn’t right we head for the nearest restaurant or home that promises us a slice of chocolate heaven.

I recently went home to Alabama to visit my mom, Rose, and my Aunt Sadie. Of course, I savored a piece of what I believe is the best chocolate pie in the world. It brought back memories and the love I feel for these women. I was teary as I left for the airplane to go home. As I headed back to Louisiana I found myself on a plane that sat on the tarmac because of mechanical problems . The stewardess sat beside and we started chatting about Louisiana food. She asked the same question. “What is chocolate Pie”

Well, I’ve decided it’s a Southern delicacy and should get the Nobel Peace Prize. Because it does make everything all right with world — even if it’s just for a few bites. So, I’m leaving you with the recipe. Make it with love and then let me know what problems it solved.

Mom’s Chocolate Pie

Ingredients:

1 cup sugar

3 tbsp. flour

3 tbsp. cocoa

3 eggs (beaten)

2 1/2 cups evaporated milk

1 tsp. vanilla

3 tbsp. butter

Whipped cream (small container heavy cream and a few tablespoons of sugar whipped until stiff.)

1 baked pie shell

Method:

Prebake the pie shell. Mix dry ingredients: sugar, flour and cocoa. Add beaten eggs and milk. Mix well, cook over medium heat and stir until thick. Remove from heat; add vanilla and butter. Pour into baked pie shell and cool before topping with whipped cream. Add coconut on top if you want.  Makes one 9 inch pie.

Reach Kaye at: Nann1151@aol.com.

Posted in Foodie Features, Kaye Hurst, South, U.S. Cuisine & TravelComments (0)

Thanksgiving … Louisiana Style

Thanksgiving … Louisiana Style

By Shannon Hurst Lane

turkey1

Some households enjoy a traditional turkey dinner. Here in Louisiana we have a different take on the annual celebration. Holiday traditions here usually include peanut oil, three fowl, and basically a lot of lard. Sounds pretty gross? Well, where I come from, these are cooked together to form the base for a symphony of culinary delights that would tempt even the most staid vegan.

Decades ago, some Cajun hanging around his Louisiana backyard came up with idea of deep frying the entire turkey in a vat of peanut oil. This unique way of preparing a Thanksgiving turkey has inspired many other would-be chefs to attempt the same, only to end the day in a holiday mishap that sometimes includes setting an entire house of fire, if not causing personal disfigurement. This practice has resulted in numerous news stories across the southern region of the United States, all resulting in the same post-holiday message: Remember fried turkey safety.

Fried turkey became a fad that paved the way for an even more innovative twist on Louisiana’s Thanksgiving dinner. It’s called the Turducken and it’s a concoction made up of three feathered friends: the turkey, the duck, and the chicken. These birds are deboned and then stuffed inside of each other. It starts with the chicken inside of the duck, which is then placed inside of the turkey. It’s seasoned and baked, which results in a flavorful and juicy entrée.

Whichever entrée a Louisiana family chooses to serve, it is usually accompanied by a rice dressing, chicken and dumplings, mashed potatoes, potato salad, and any other carbohydrate that can be conjured in a baked dish. In my family, there must always be a honeybaked ham always results in an argument over leftovers. The family will stuff themselves as if it is a last meal. They finish with a dessert and a food-induced nap.

Me, I’m looking forward to the juicy Turducken and my mother’s oyster rice dressing, followed with a delicious slice of chocolate pie.

Oh, that reminds me. It’s time to refill my Lipitor in preparation of the holiday festivities.

Shannon can be reached at: Shannon@globalfoodie.com or at Hurstlane@aol.com.

 

Posted in Shannon Hurst Lane, South, U.S. Cuisine & TravelComments (0)

Oregon’s Bounty Helps Lift a Regional Icon

Oregon’s Bounty Helps Lift a Regional Icon

By Deston Nokes

Mt. Hood’s Timberline Lodge has long been known as Oregon’s second most-visited site after Multnomah Falls. Located on the face of Mt. Hood, just a stone’s throw from Portland, Timberline offers incredible year-round skiing, a rustic ambiance, and a top-notch culinary team.

timberline-lodge

Timberline Lodge is more than an iconic landmark. It’s a mountain cabin on a grand scale: decidedly rustic, warm and cozy beyond measure. Some may recall that its façade played a starring role as The Overlook Hotel in Stanley Kubrick’s motion picture, The Shining.

“When Timberline was built during the Great Depression, the concept was to create a place for all of the people,” said Jon Tullis, Timberline spokesman. “The idea was to create ‘Oregon’s Mountain Home,’ and that feeling hasn’t changed one bit.”

But when the economic termites began eating away at the state’s tourism industry in 2008, even Timberline was hard hit. By October, the business downturn was so profound; the lodge had to close its dining room for lunch.

“We had to change our business model and find a way to ride the rising popularity of culinary tourism,” explained Leif Benson, CEC, AAC, Timberline’s executive chef of 30 years. “In Oregon we have incredible wines, meats, fish and produce; and at Timberline, we have the perfect background to showcase it all.”

After talking with different purveyors, Benson started the daily Farmer’s Market Brunch Buffet, which is a selection of distinctive Northwest cuisine every day in Timberline’s main lobby from 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. The region’s growers, producers and food industry advocates consult on the buffet offerings, and have found that the historic Timberline Lodge is a perfect setting to showcase their foods to a steady stream of culinary tourists.

Each day the brunch offers:

 A Chef’s Action Statio’ (carved or presented items)

• Fresh Farmer’s Market salads

• Chef’s daily soup

• Artisan bread

• Local produce

• Vegetable presentations

• Mesclun salad

• Desserts and pastries

• Made-to-order waffle station

This isn’t your run-of-the-mill, strip-mall buffet fare. So far, the brunch has showcased on strawberries, cherries, golden watermelons, sushi, lamb, hazelnuts, pink shrimp, Dungeness crab, albacore tuna, potatoes, pears and local coffee roasters.

chef-benson2

“The menu changes all the time to emphasize the season’s bounty,” Benson said. “One week we’ll feature our mushroom foraging industry with chanterelle’s. Another week we’ll showcase artisan cheeses, wild game, Oregon wines or Northwest beef.”

The day I enjoyed brunch, the state’s potato growers were holding court, unveiling purple potato candy and other edible delights. My personal favorite was the lamb chops served by SuDan Lamb.

In one month, Timberline’s concept attracted 10,000 diners. Because of its success, the Farmer’s Market Brunch Buffet is now a daily, year-round event.

“It’s been a great way to get people to visit us ,” Benson said. “At Timberline, you enjoy the food and take away a memory.”

Celebrating what makes Oregon taste so good

Much of Timberline’s success is derived by its partnership with Oregon’s food and wine producers. Each August through November, the Oregon Tourism Commission, also known as Travel Oregon, launches Oregon Bounty, which is a comprehensive campaign to tantalize taste buds in all seven regions of the state.

The Oregon Bounty campaign, which continues until Nov. 30, offers special events and menus urging locals (and lucky visitors) to try new wines, enjoy local produce, order distinctive dinners in fine eateries and attend harvest festivals around the state.

Photos by Deston Nokes.

Photos by Deston Nokes.

The centerpiece of the campaign is a colorful, comprehensive Web site. At www.traveloregon.com, users can click on a region and surf specials in lodging, dining, festivals, wineries and breweries. It posts the fixed-price menus at participating restaurants. Also, there is an online recipe book using Oregon meats, fruits cheeses and nuts, all washed down with Oregon vintages.

Visit www.TravelOregon.com/Bounty for details.  Contact Deston at Deston@globalfoodie.com.

Posted in Deston Nokes, Foodie Features, Northwest, U.S. Cuisine & TravelComments (0)