A Small Colorado Town with Big Eats

By Ron Stern

Durango is tucked neatly alongside the San Juan Mountains in the southwest portion of Colorado, a spot that’s always been on my food destination list. Last month while there I found a small town with more local restaurants per capita than San Francisco – and just as diverse.

Sometimes referred to as the “City of Brewerly Love,” the town boasts four brew pubs, each with its own distinctive local food specialties and of course, beer.

Steamworks Brewing Company makes award-winning lagers, ales and stouts, but also has dishes sure to satisfy lumberjack-sized appetites. While scanning the menu the Cajun boil caught my eye. I was with friends, so we ordered enough for two. After clearing a space and laying down some brown paper, this hot-steamy cornucopia of crustaceans was poured from a giant cauldron and spread out to fill half the table. This included pounds of Cajun-spiced crabs, shrimp, crawfish, andouille susage, corn and potatoes. Add a cold brewsky and I was transported to the shores of the Louisiana bijou and culinary heaven.

Durango has non-alcoholic beverages covered as well. Zuberfizz Soda Company makes its own version of what soda pop should taste like with San Juan mountain water and pure cane sugar instead of fructose. I tasted a grape soda and a key lime and it was fresher and more vibrant other sodas on the market. Zuberfizz has a full line of flavors including Cocoa Fizz chocolate soda, the aroma of which can fill up the inside of a car just by opening the bottle.

One of the nice things about Durango is that nothing is far away. There are multiple coffee shops (yes even a Starbucks) that offer endless permutations of java or mocha this or that. At any time of day you can find locals, backpackers, bikers and tourists crowded into their comfy confines enjoying good company or accessing the internet via WiFi.

Oscars Café is one of the more popular hangouts for the breakfast crowd and is located in a non-descript strip mall. People line up at the door of the early 1950’s-style diner for mouth-watering meals that include blueberry pancakes, French toast, eggs with green chili. It all comes with out-of-this-world hash browns. I was told those fried potato gems take a couple of days to make and have a combination of spices – one of the most closely guarded secrets of Durango.

I stayed at the historic Rochester Hotel, which has quite a colorful connection with Hollywood. All of the rooms are themed after Western movies filmed in the area. The most notable: Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid and City Slickers. Those popular movies gave way to the city’s other nickname: the Hollywood of the Rockies.

Breakfast is included at the Rochester and later in the day they have a jar filled with cookies. The gingersnaps, served on weekends were chewy and delicious and are now on my list for my top 10 cookies. Not to be outdone however, is a little bakery on the end of town known simply as Bread. They also have huge gingersnaps and are now just only slightly ahead of the Rochester’s on my list.

While there I was told that Bread has some of the best sandwiches this side of the continental divide. I’ve heard that before, so I ordered a simple BLT. Yes, it now has my vote for the best bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich. (Maybe I should start another list?) The old-world-style bread is made in large ovens and has a crispy crust covering the soft fragrant bread. The bacon must be something custom ordered and was thick, plentiful and bursting with flavor. This alone would be enough to convince me to drive the seven hours from my Fort Collins home for another round.

I know there were more places to visit and a lot more food, but having packed on more than a few pounds it was time to enjoy some of the outdoor adventures and natural beauty that makes Durango so famous. I will save all those undiscovered food gems for another day.

Resources:

Carvers www.carversbrewing.com

Steamworks Brewing Company www.steamworkdsbrewing.com

Zuberfizz www.zuberfizz.com

Oscars Café (970) 247 0526

Rochester Hotel www.rochesterhotel.com

Bread (970) 247-5100

by Ron Stern

The dark exterior and 1940s neon sign belies what visitors find inside this Glenwood Springs, Colorado prize. Owner Colleen Stuart has remade what was formerly known as the Riviera Supper Club into her own vision. Now it’s just called the Riviera Restaurant and it’s both visually pleasing and the food is mouth watering.

The interior is surprisingly bright due to its 2005 facelift. Blond, natural hardwood tables and chairs, contemporary glass dishes and walls covered with vibrant paintings from local artists highlight the eatery. This has created a fun and inviting atmosphere conducive to hearty appetites.

My experience started with a pinktinis, a citrus flavored martini using x-rated fusion liqueur vodka. It was tart yet smooth. There are another 28 martinis and one is sure to fit your palate.

Next up was the Riviera signature salad ($6). This ample portion was creatively plated and chilled and simply comprised of Romaine lettuce blended with a smoky home-made bacon gorgonzola ranch dressing. The flavors matched each other perfectly and I can honestly say that this was one of my all time best salads. I would drive the 4 plus hours again just to have this salad.

The coconut tempura shrimp ($8) was my choice for an appetizer. This is a choice I’m always a little reluctant to make so far inland. However, I was pleasantly surprised by the freshness and flavor of these hand-battered, plump sea treasures. Accompanied by a sweet chili-ginger sauce, the sweetness of the sauce and crispy texture of the perfectly fried tempura worked well together.

For my main entrée I had the recommended Colorado rack of lamb with demi-glazed rosemary (seasonal), served with garlic mashed potatoes and mixed vegetables. Very few restaurants know how to prepare a good lamb. This one does and mine was tender, flavorful and succulent.

The evening was topped off with a traditional cold, rich, creamy and decadent chocolate mousse.

Dining at the Riviera has the feeling of a cozy art museum. There is even a huge painting of a martini fastened to the ceiling. Colleen Stuart goes to great lengths to ensure that her customers are well attended and that the food is always home-made and fresh. The Riviera is located at 702 Grand Ave. in Glenwood Springs, Colorado. They are open every night from 5 p.m.-10 p.m. and reservations are always a good idea at this popular local eatery.

Contact Ron at: Ron@globalfoodie.com.

By Ron Stern
Jay’s Bistro is a Fort Collins institution, one that has grown along with the community. It started inauspiciously as Café Columbine in 1980 and two decades later morphed into the bistro. Jay and Jackie Whitlen, a husband and wife team, created a perfect recipe of fine cuisine and local entertainment, a blend that now has a loyal following and insured the bistro’s long-term success.

Jay and Jackie became sweethearts in the 1960s, while in a New York high school. After visiting Fort Collins in 1972, Jay discovered what so many have; he liked the town so much, he never left. He became the chef at Nico’s Catacombs in the 1970’s. Ten years later he and Jackie opened Café Columbine on the corner of College Ave and Laurel Street.

Initially they only served breakfast and lunch, but, by 1988, had so many satisfied customers they opened for dinner. That decision brought more customers and the need for a bigger space. They found it across the street on South College Avenue. There they honed their culinary skills and increased their customer base.

After 10 years the Whitlen’s lost their lease and had to look for even bigger digs. In 2001 they bought 135 West Oak Street where continue to offer their distinctive combination of hospitality, music and, of course, fabulous food. “We made it into the style we like and expanded the music and menu,” Jay said proudly. Live jazz is offered four nights a week and their menu is described as “American eclectic.”

Jay, who has traveled extensively, is influenced by southwestern and Asian cultures and incorporates those tastes and flavors into his dishes. For example, the southwest crab cake appetizer is a favorite among the locals. Jay uses lump crab with a smoky tomato and corn salsa accompanied by a red pepper sauce. It is truly one of the best crab cakes — in or out of Fort Collins.

One of Jay and Jackie’s signature and most popular dishes is the filet mignon with a creamy gorgonzola port wine reduction. The Angus beef is tender, flavorful and when combined with the cheese, melts in your mouth.

“What sets us apart is that we have great flavors,” said Jackie, “We pride ourselves in punching up the sauces and making flavors pop.”

That is evident in other favorites, including the Ahi tuna with five-spice ginger and yakitori glaze. A Chilean sea bass with crusted pine nuts and fresh basil is also unforgettable. The wild game plate of wild boar and cranberry sausage, Colorado ostrich filet plated on raspberry port demi glace, and red deer medallion on blackberry pomegranate demi glace, is yet another popular and tempting meal.

In addition to the generous portions, Jay’s has an extensive wine selection and, since 1993, has won the prestigious Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. There are 35 wines that may be ordered by the glass and, according to Jay, the bistro was the first restaurant in Fort Collins to offer 16-ounce wine glasses. This is just one reason why Jay’s is perpetually busy. “We offer a great value in portion sizes as well as the amount of wine we serve,” said Jackie.

The atmosphere at Jay’s is warm and inviting with a soothing palate of earth tones, natural woods, black and white framed photos hung over the tables, wrought iron railings and colorful dried flower accents. Jackie has also incorporated her favorite artists in the bistro’s design, including Polish oil Art Deco painter, Tamara de Lempicka.

Contrary to what some may think, Jay’s is not just a special occasion restaurant, although they do get their share of celebrations. Rather, it is a bistro where you can just have appetizers, a Caesar salad and a glass of wine, all while enjoying live music and the decorative atmosphere.

The friendly and professional staff at Jay’s lives the philosophy of its owners—to treat every guest like they are coming into their own home. In fact many have told Jay that his bistro is the Cheers of Fort Collins. Quite a compliment Jay quips who coincidentally added, “even our manager’s name is Norm.”

Jay’s Penne Pasta with Gorgonzola

1 cup cream
2 tablespoons sun dried tomatoes
8 ounces mixed mushrooms
2 tablespoons garlic
1/4 cup gorgonzola cheese
Penne pasta
Candied pecans (These can be made by covering pecans with molasses and baking on a grease-covered pan for 10 minutes in a hot oven).
Olive oil
1. Saute the mushrooms, garlic and sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil over medium to high heat until the mushrooms give off its liquid.
2. Add the cream and gorgonzola cheese. Cook over high heat, letting the mixture reduce by a quarter.
3. Toss with Cooked penne pasta.
4. Top with candied pecans

Makes two servings.

FOR MORE INFORMATION:
Location/Hours:
135 West Oak, Fort Collins, Colorado 80524
Call for reservations.
Telephone: 979.482.1876.
Lunch: Monday – Friday from 11 a.m. – 4 p.m.
Dinner: Monday – Thursday 5 p.m. – 9 p.m.
Friday and Saturday: 5 p.m. – 9:30 p.m.
Sunday: 5 p.m. – 8:30 p.m.

Ron Stern is a Fort-Collins based writer and photographer who can be reached at Ron@globalfoodie.com.