Cheese, Cream and Fondue

Story and photos by Ron Stern

Located in the Canton of Fribourg, Switzerland, the Medieval town of Gruyères is only a short train ride from Zurich and is the home to some tasty and long-standing traditions.

As you probably know cheese is something that Swiss have pefected for centuries. The House of Gruyère demonstration cheese dairy is the place to see how these master crafstman have been making Gruyère AOC since 1115 AD. The designation AOC is an official mark of quality only awarded to certain products that are native to a particular region. And in this case, the designation is well deserved. The tour involves all the senses and at one station you can smell the flowers (such as orchids) that are fed to the cows to produce just the right kind of milk that then matures to become creamy AOC cheese.

Of course, what would Switzerland be without Fondue and using various recipies that include Gruyere Cheese, you can enjoy lunch right on site while dipping bits of bread and vegetables in this hot and savory, melted cheese delight.

For dessert, you simply have to give way to local custom and try some Gruyère double cream with meringues and fruit. Now let me say that this isn’t your typical cream but a specialty of the region made from the finest Alpine milk that is so rich, thick and creamy that no light can escape from its depths! They serve this in wooden or chocolate cups (I prefer the latter) and then this can be blended into coffee of poured over the aforementioned meringues and fruit. The result is a full sensory immersion into the flavors of Gruyères and one which will linger on your palatte for months to come.

Resources:

www.myswitzerland.com

www.lamaisondugruyere.ch

www.la-gruyere.ch

Ron can be reached at: travelwriter0@comcast.net.

Text and photos by Ron Stern

Stack of cookies in Sprungli shop.

“I have this theory that chocolate slows down the aging process. It may not be true, but do I dare take the chance?” – Author unknown.

Hot chocolate with a tray of truffels in the background. Photo by Ron Stern.

If you love chocolate as much as I do then Zurich, Switzerland is a must on your list of places to visit. The Swiss pioneered the development of milk chocolate using pure Alpine milk, a vast improvement over the bitter dark chocolate that permeated the world then.

Conching, developed in Switzerland in the late 1800s, is the constant swirling or stirring of the chocolate, making it even better. It introduced a creamy melt-in-your-mouth product that had so far eluded chocolate makers. This was one of the biggest improvements to a creation that can make any day seem better. Many (including me) consider Swiss chocolate to be the finest in the world. Zurich chocolatiers deserve a lot of attention – and praise.

Confiserie Sprüngli, located in the busy Bahnhofstrasse shopping area, is always packed with customers enjoying some of its smooth, chocolaty sensations. Whenever visiting I always make a beeline for this little bit of cocoa bean heaven. One side of the shop is a café where you can leisurely enjoy coffee or hot chocolate, along with some chocolate delicacies. The other side looks like something from Willie Wonka and the Chocolate Factory. Colorfully lit displays feature all manner of homemade dark and light delicacies, including Truffes du Jour. These round little pieces of heaven are just the fix that every chocolate addict needs. Made from cow’s milk – that is taken from the farm that day – the truffles are then made by hand and are meant to be savored in the same 24-hour period. Mouth-wateringly delicious, it’s hard to eat just one … or two.

Hot chocolate at Cafe Schober.

Now if all this isn’t enough to give you a chocolate sugar high, head over to Café Conditorei Schober on Napfgasse Street. This boutique coffee house serves breakfast and lunch and has a wonderful selection of cakes and pastries. I go there for a cup of some of the best hot chocolate in the country. Served with a generous portion of freshly made cream, the combination is all you need to experience Nirvana.

Resources:

www.myswitzerland.com

www.spruengli.ch

www.cafe-conditorei-schober.ch

Ron can be reached at: Travelwriter01@comcast.net.

A Small Colorado Town with Big Eats

By Ron Stern

Durango is tucked neatly alongside the San Juan Mountains in the southwest portion of Colorado, a spot that’s always been on my food destination list. Last month while there I found a small town with more local restaurants per capita than San Francisco – and just as diverse.

Sometimes referred to as the “City of Brewerly Love,” the town boasts four brew pubs, each with its own distinctive local food specialties and of course, beer.

Steamworks Brewing Company makes award-winning lagers, ales and stouts, but also has dishes sure to satisfy lumberjack-sized appetites. While scanning the menu the Cajun boil caught my eye. I was with friends, so we ordered enough for two. After clearing a space and laying down some brown paper, this hot-steamy cornucopia of crustaceans was poured from a giant cauldron and spread out to fill half the table. This included pounds of Cajun-spiced crabs, shrimp, crawfish, andouille susage, corn and potatoes. Add a cold brewsky and I was transported to the shores of the Louisiana bijou and culinary heaven.

Durango has non-alcoholic beverages covered as well. Zuberfizz Soda Company makes its own version of what soda pop should taste like with San Juan mountain water and pure cane sugar instead of fructose. I tasted a grape soda and a key lime and it was fresher and more vibrant other sodas on the market. Zuberfizz has a full line of flavors including Cocoa Fizz chocolate soda, the aroma of which can fill up the inside of a car just by opening the bottle.

One of the nice things about Durango is that nothing is far away. There are multiple coffee shops (yes even a Starbucks) that offer endless permutations of java or mocha this or that. At any time of day you can find locals, backpackers, bikers and tourists crowded into their comfy confines enjoying good company or accessing the internet via WiFi.

Oscars Café is one of the more popular hangouts for the breakfast crowd and is located in a non-descript strip mall. People line up at the door of the early 1950’s-style diner for mouth-watering meals that include blueberry pancakes, French toast, eggs with green chili. It all comes with out-of-this-world hash browns. I was told those fried potato gems take a couple of days to make and have a combination of spices – one of the most closely guarded secrets of Durango.

I stayed at the historic Rochester Hotel, which has quite a colorful connection with Hollywood. All of the rooms are themed after Western movies filmed in the area. The most notable: Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid and City Slickers. Those popular movies gave way to the city’s other nickname: the Hollywood of the Rockies.

Breakfast is included at the Rochester and later in the day they have a jar filled with cookies. The gingersnaps, served on weekends were chewy and delicious and are now on my list for my top 10 cookies. Not to be outdone however, is a little bakery on the end of town known simply as Bread. They also have huge gingersnaps and are now just only slightly ahead of the Rochester’s on my list.

While there I was told that Bread has some of the best sandwiches this side of the continental divide. I’ve heard that before, so I ordered a simple BLT. Yes, it now has my vote for the best bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich. (Maybe I should start another list?) The old-world-style bread is made in large ovens and has a crispy crust covering the soft fragrant bread. The bacon must be something custom ordered and was thick, plentiful and bursting with flavor. This alone would be enough to convince me to drive the seven hours from my Fort Collins home for another round.

I know there were more places to visit and a lot more food, but having packed on more than a few pounds it was time to enjoy some of the outdoor adventures and natural beauty that makes Durango so famous. I will save all those undiscovered food gems for another day.

Resources:

Carvers www.carversbrewing.com

Steamworks Brewing Company www.steamworkdsbrewing.com

Zuberfizz www.zuberfizz.com

Oscars Café (970) 247 0526

Rochester Hotel www.rochesterhotel.com

Bread (970) 247-5100

by Ron Stern

The dark exterior and 1940s neon sign belies what visitors find inside this Glenwood Springs, Colorado prize. Owner Colleen Stuart has remade what was formerly known as the Riviera Supper Club into her own vision. Now it’s just called the Riviera Restaurant and it’s both visually pleasing and the food is mouth watering.

The interior is surprisingly bright due to its 2005 facelift. Blond, natural hardwood tables and chairs, contemporary glass dishes and walls covered with vibrant paintings from local artists highlight the eatery. This has created a fun and inviting atmosphere conducive to hearty appetites.

My experience started with a pinktinis, a citrus flavored martini using x-rated fusion liqueur vodka. It was tart yet smooth. There are another 28 martinis and one is sure to fit your palate.

Next up was the Riviera signature salad ($6). This ample portion was creatively plated and chilled and simply comprised of Romaine lettuce blended with a smoky home-made bacon gorgonzola ranch dressing. The flavors matched each other perfectly and I can honestly say that this was one of my all time best salads. I would drive the 4 plus hours again just to have this salad.

The coconut tempura shrimp ($8) was my choice for an appetizer. This is a choice I’m always a little reluctant to make so far inland. However, I was pleasantly surprised by the freshness and flavor of these hand-battered, plump sea treasures. Accompanied by a sweet chili-ginger sauce, the sweetness of the sauce and crispy texture of the perfectly fried tempura worked well together.

For my main entrée I had the recommended Colorado rack of lamb with demi-glazed rosemary (seasonal), served with garlic mashed potatoes and mixed vegetables. Very few restaurants know how to prepare a good lamb. This one does and mine was tender, flavorful and succulent.

The evening was topped off with a traditional cold, rich, creamy and decadent chocolate mousse.

Dining at the Riviera has the feeling of a cozy art museum. There is even a huge painting of a martini fastened to the ceiling. Colleen Stuart goes to great lengths to ensure that her customers are well attended and that the food is always home-made and fresh. The Riviera is located at 702 Grand Ave. in Glenwood Springs, Colorado. They are open every night from 5 p.m.-10 p.m. and reservations are always a good idea at this popular local eatery.

Contact Ron at: Ron@globalfoodie.com.

By Ron Stern
Jay’s Bistro is a Fort Collins institution, one that has grown along with the community. It started inauspiciously as Café Columbine in 1980 and two decades later morphed into the bistro. Jay and Jackie Whitlen, a husband and wife team, created a perfect recipe of fine cuisine and local entertainment, a blend that now has a loyal following and insured the bistro’s long-term success.

Jay and Jackie became sweethearts in the 1960s, while in a New York high school. After visiting Fort Collins in 1972, Jay discovered what so many have; he liked the town so much, he never left. He became the chef at Nico’s Catacombs in the 1970’s. Ten years later he and Jackie opened Café Columbine on the corner of College Ave and Laurel Street.

Initially they only served breakfast and lunch, but, by 1988, had so many satisfied customers they opened for dinner. That decision brought more customers and the need for a bigger space. They found it across the street on South College Avenue. There they honed their culinary skills and increased their customer base.

After 10 years the Whitlen’s lost their lease and had to look for even bigger digs. In 2001 they bought 135 West Oak Street where continue to offer their distinctive combination of hospitality, music and, of course, fabulous food. “We made it into the style we like and expanded the music and menu,” Jay said proudly. Live jazz is offered four nights a week and their menu is described as “American eclectic.”

Jay, who has traveled extensively, is influenced by southwestern and Asian cultures and incorporates those tastes and flavors into his dishes. For example, the southwest crab cake appetizer is a favorite among the locals. Jay uses lump crab with a smoky tomato and corn salsa accompanied by a red pepper sauce. It is truly one of the best crab cakes — in or out of Fort Collins.

One of Jay and Jackie’s signature and most popular dishes is the filet mignon with a creamy gorgonzola port wine reduction. The Angus beef is tender, flavorful and when combined with the cheese, melts in your mouth.

“What sets us apart is that we have great flavors,” said Jackie, “We pride ourselves in punching up the sauces and making flavors pop.”

That is evident in other favorites, including the Ahi tuna with five-spice ginger and yakitori glaze. A Chilean sea bass with crusted pine nuts and fresh basil is also unforgettable. The wild game plate of wild boar and cranberry sausage, Colorado ostrich filet plated on raspberry port demi glace, and red deer medallion on blackberry pomegranate demi glace, is yet another popular and tempting meal.

In addition to the generous portions, Jay’s has an extensive wine selection and, since 1993, has won the prestigious Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. There are 35 wines that may be ordered by the glass and, according to Jay, the bistro was the first restaurant in Fort Collins to offer 16-ounce wine glasses. This is just one reason why Jay’s is perpetually busy. “We offer a great value in portion sizes as well as the amount of wine we serve,” said Jackie.

The atmosphere at Jay’s is warm and inviting with a soothing palate of earth tones, natural woods, black and white framed photos hung over the tables, wrought iron railings and colorful dried flower accents. Jackie has also incorporated her favorite artists in the bistro’s design, including Polish oil Art Deco painter, Tamara de Lempicka.

Contrary to what some may think, Jay’s is not just a special occasion restaurant, although they do get their share of celebrations. Rather, it is a bistro where you can just have appetizers, a Caesar salad and a glass of wine, all while enjoying live music and the decorative atmosphere.

The friendly and professional staff at Jay’s lives the philosophy of its owners—to treat every guest like they are coming into their own home. In fact many have told Jay that his bistro is the Cheers of Fort Collins. Quite a compliment Jay quips who coincidentally added, “even our manager’s name is Norm.”

Jay’s Penne Pasta with Gorgonzola

1 cup cream
2 tablespoons sun dried tomatoes
8 ounces mixed mushrooms
2 tablespoons garlic
1/4 cup gorgonzola cheese
Penne pasta
Candied pecans (These can be made by covering pecans with molasses and baking on a grease-covered pan for 10 minutes in a hot oven).
Olive oil
1. Saute the mushrooms, garlic and sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil over medium to high heat until the mushrooms give off its liquid.
2. Add the cream and gorgonzola cheese. Cook over high heat, letting the mixture reduce by a quarter.
3. Toss with Cooked penne pasta.
4. Top with candied pecans

Makes two servings.

FOR MORE INFORMATION:
Location/Hours:
135 West Oak, Fort Collins, Colorado 80524
Call for reservations.
Telephone: 979.482.1876.
Lunch: Monday – Friday from 11 a.m. – 4 p.m.
Dinner: Monday – Thursday 5 p.m. – 9 p.m.
Friday and Saturday: 5 p.m. – 9:30 p.m.
Sunday: 5 p.m. – 8:30 p.m.

Ron Stern is a Fort-Collins based writer and photographer who can be reached at Ron@globalfoodie.com.

Denise Dubé, globalfoodie’s creator and editor, is a food writer who travels – or a traveling foodie who writes. Foods preparation, its origin, smell and presentation are a passion (and obsession) and she enjoys tasting and writing about its cultural nuances. globalfoodie is her baby and food is her muse. It’s also the main reason she needs to lose a few extra pounds. Her work has appeared in Intermezzo, travelgirl, MSNBC.com, National Geographic Traveler and the Boston Globe.  Reach Denise at: Denise@globalfoodie.com.

Ami Hooper is globalfoodie’s creative designer and the cyber brains behind the site. She can be reached at: Ami@globalfoodie.com.

Maureen Costello is a Boston-based freelance journalist who loves writing about food and has  sampled appetizers, main courses, beverages and desserts from almost every ethnic group.  Maureen is passionate about food various flavors and forms,  its cultural meaning, tradition and preparation and is thrilled to share her finds with globalfoodie readers.  She can be reached at: Maureen@globalfoodie.com.

Sue Frause is an award winning freelance journalist and photographer. Her words are on images in print and online and include: the Examiner, True/Slant and she is also a About.com spa website contributor. She’s an avid fan of social networking and writes a blog about all things Canadian called,  Closet Canuck. She’s also an on-air contributor to Around the World Travel Radio. Sue and her husband live on an island in Puget Sound where they tend to their chickens, turkeys, garden and their very own field of dreams. She is a popular guest speaker on travel and other earthly delights and frequently appears as an emcee at community charity events. In addition to her frequent travels, Sue enjoys theater, movies, jazz, fine food, heavenly spas and tiptoeing through the tulips … when they are in bloom.  Sue’s website is www.suefrause.com and she is reachable at: sue@suefrause.com.

Richard Frisbie is a food, wine, and travel writer; a bookseller and publisher of New York centric books; and a professional baker who resides in New York’s Hudson Valley. Online, his articles appear here, on Gather.com, GoNomad.com, travellady.com and the many websites of EDGE Publications. He also writes for regional New York magazines such as Life in the Finger Lakes, and Kaatskill Life.  Richard can be reached at Richard@globalfoodie.com

“Have spoon will travel,” is Kori A. Gaff ’s motto. This 31-year-old Maine native is married to a Marine, and has two small children. She manages to make meals everyone will enjoy by using innovation and simplicity. It’s a gift we all need once in a while. Kori also enjoys cooking for the neighborhood, no matter where she’s stationed. Kori can be reached at: Kori@globalfoodie.com.

Emilie  C. Harting’s articles on culture and ecotourism have appeared in a number of major magazines and newspapers, most recently www.forbestraveler.com,  The Philadelphia Inquirer, and MSNBC. When she’s not walking around the streets of various cities or hiking in the countryside, she can often be found in her kitchen.

Kaye Hurst is a Louisiana southern woman who loves all things food-related — it nourishes her soul and her tastebuds. Cooking is her favorite part of life and she is compelled to share her passion for all things sauteed, braised, boiled or basted. In fact Kaye has more palpations over a recipe-laden cookbook than a steamy romance novel. Celebrations at home always involve good food marinated in comfort and seasoned with love. Kaye can be reached at: Kaye@globalfoodie.com.

Shannon Hurst Lane travels the world in search of inspiring destinations and adventurous moments. She enjoys family travel, romantic escapes, girlfriend getaways, and those all important soul-oh trips. She’s an unofficial ambassador for her home state, Louisiana, where the people don’t eat to live, they live to eat. Contact her at: Shannon@globalfoodie.com.

Keith Kellett, our UK correspondent, is an expert on England’s food history and origin. He can be reached at: Keith@globalfoodie.com.

Vivienne Mackie was born in Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) and later became a clinical psychologist. She switched to counseling foreign students and their families and teaching ESL after moving to the United States. Toting a journal and a Brownie camera, her travels began at 8 when she and her grandmother boarded a ship and journed from Rhodesia to England.  Mackie still travels as often as possible — with a modern camera and better journals. Vivienne, fascinated by different languages and cultures, realized that music and food are a big part of any culture.  Tasting food from different countries, taking pictures of the dishes, and collecting recipes, have become an integral part of any trip. She’ll try (almost) anything at least once but found that willingness put severely to the test in China—-where she did draw the line at cat, dog and snake. Vivienne may be reached at:

Susan McKee is an independent scholar and freelance journalist specializing in history, culture and travel. She can be reached at: Susan@globalfoodie.com.

Rosemary Minati spent her early years working as a pre-school teacher in the New York suburbs. Her tools included a handful of plastic scissors, hundreds of kid-proof glue containers and dollops of creativity. After spending her days feeding her students minds she raced home to feed the family. This should-have-been-a-chef foodie can make a delicious and unforgettable meal-at a moment’s notice and knows no cultural bounds when creating a meal. Rosemary will find New York’s best restaurants, whether in the city or hidden in Westchester County. She’ll also be giving us a heads-up on some of the best cookbooks written. She can be reached at: Rosemary@globalfoodie.com.

Deston Nokes is our western correspondent, this Oregon native knows adventure and food. He can be reached at Deston@globalfoodie.com

Stephanie Oswald:

Wine and the good life are the focus of the Sip & Savor column by Denise Reynolds.  Awarded the grand prize by Wines of France for her writing on French wines, Denise holds an Advanced Sommelier certification. Recently, she garnered another award when she was recognized for her unsurpassed knowledge and contribution on food and wine by Indagare, the premier resource for the world’s most discerning travelers.  “Denise” means Goddess of Wine and so it’s fitting that she can be reached at: Goddessofwine@globalfoodie.com.

Ron Stern, the editor-in-chief of JustSayGo.com, an on-line travel-oriented e-zine, is also the travel columnis for the San Diego Community Newspaper Group, Fifty Plus Marketplace News and The Womens’ Newspaper Group. His articles have appeared in national and regional newspapers and magazines including Shape, Cruise, Frequent Flyer, AAA Motorist, Visit Los Cabos Guide, Destinations West, Key Biscayne and La Jolla Today. Gannett, The Bismarck Tribune, The Jamaican Observer and travel trade magazines have also published his work.  Ron’s other contributions have been noted by PBS, Mobil Travel Guides and his  photography has been used extensively by Jordan Tourism Board. He has traveled extensively and is the author of five books. Ron lives with his wife, Nancy in Fort Collins, Colorado. Email him at Ron@globalfoodie.com.

Peter Francis Battaglia: