By Vivienne Mackie

Korea has a rich culinary tradition — one of Asia’s finest — and sampling the many delights is one of the pleasures of visiting the country.

A typical Korean meal is based around boiled rice, a variety of soups, and as many side dishes (called banchan) as the cook can muster that day. In fact, banchan are the hallmark of Korean cuisine and all the Koreans I know pride themselves on the banchan’s uniqueness and variety. Banchan are usually spicy and accompany virtually every meal, three times a day, so Korean housewives have often commented and complained that they need to spend a lot of time preparing these dishes. At least one kimchi will be included, but there are many other possibilities: tofu, bean sprouts, small anchovies in different sauces, wild green vegetables, spinach, acorn jelly, different seaweeds, sliced garlic cloves.

Of them all, kimchi is the favored side dish and fequently is referred to as the national dish. Koreans serve kimchi at almost every meal, and few Koreans can last more than a few days before cravings get the better of them.

Banchan or Korean side dishes.

The most common kimchi is baechu kimchi, made from Napa (or Chinese) cabbage mixed with hot red peppers, ginger, garlic, spices and lots of salt. It’s left to pickle in these spices for months. The mixture is believed to be rich in vitamins C, E, and K. However, it is also commonly made from radishes or cucumbers, and many other vegetables are used, such as pumpkin, eggplant and even broccoli.

Some varieties are aged only for hours or days, others for months, even years. Some are fiery hot, many are pungent, others more bland and are called white kimchi — but even these are not red pepper-free. Many areas of the country and most families have their own Kimchi recipe and these may be jealously guarded, as a housewife’s cooking prowess is frequently judged on her kimchi. However, due to time and space constraints, many Koreans nowadays buy their kimchi at stores; my Korean friends do regret this and always wish they could make more of their own.

What is the Origin of this National Dish?

Traditionally, kimchi was made to preserve vegetables and to ensure proper nutrition during the winter months, when fresh produce was unavailable. Even today, late-November to early-December is still the season for gimjang, or making-your-own-kimchi, and many family members and friends get together for a kimchi-making party.

Jongsoo showing kimchi pots.

Making kimchi dates back to at least the 13^th century. Red chili pepper was only added in the 17^th century, when it was introduced to Korea from Europe via Japan, most likely by the Portuguese. Red pepper brought a major change to kimchi and the Korean diet in general, as the Koreans took to the new spice with great gusto.

Traditionally kimchi was buried and stored in large earthenware crocks in the backyard, and kimchi is still made the old-fashioned way in some parts of the Koreas. The producers bury the vegetable mixes in these covered pots and let the vegetables ferment underground over the winter. But for many families today there is no yard, so they invest in a special kimchi fridge, in order to regulate the storage temperature, and prevent kimchi odor from permeating everything else.

There are at least 160 kimchi varieties, differentiated by region and ingredients, most of them quite spicy. It’s not just the basic side dish of the Korean meal.  Kimchi is used in other popular dishes, such as kimchi stew, kimchi pancakes, kimchi fried rice, and kimchi ramyeon (ramen noodles).

The city of Gwangju, in far South West Korea, hosts a Gimchi Festival one weekend in late September or early October. Here you can taste every kimchi imaginable, and some that you might never imagine, such as kimchi pizza.

During the 1988 Summer Olympic Games, thousands of foreigners were introduced to kimchi for the first time. Despite a reputation for being spicy, some people develop a taste for it, and many foreigners also find themselves missing it after returning to their home country. Today kimchi can be found in many U.S. food stores, partly because Koreans in the country miss their national dish and partly because Korean cuisine has influenced U.S. eating habits. Kimchi is also gaining popularity worldwide for its nutritional value and disease prevention effects.

It’s interesting that North and South Koreans still share a love of this dish. For decades, they have been political rivals: North Korea is communist and poor while South Korea is non-communist and a world economic power. Despite their differences, both sides still share a taste for kimchi.

For years, North Korea has relied on outside aid to ease food shortages. Many factories have shut down because they lack parts or electricity, yet the kimchi industry still seems to be flourishing.

I have to admit that I’m not especially fond of kimchi and yet, while in South Korea in August, it was great fun learning about the dish and going on a “kimchi quest.” The adventure began with 10 days in the capital, Seoul, where my husband and I ventured out for solo meals as well as dining with Korean hosts. After that we were extremely lucky, as a Korean family included us in a road trip to the Andong and Gyeonju areas in South East Korea. Both parents were determined that we should sample as many Korean foods as possible, so each day was a true gourmet adventure. I believe we tasted the best that Korea has to offer. Because we were mobile in their van, we could explore places very much off the beaten path and could meet many of the local people in small villages and actually see where they were making kimchi, and growing and drying red peppers, sesame seeds and radishes. Our hosts, like most Koreans, are very proud of their cooking traditions and were eager for us to learn about kimchi, so we ended up in many backyards, and saw an amazing number and variety of the large earthenware storage pots. One of the sons liked spicy foods and kimchi, while one did not, so we could taste various foods of all levels of fieryness.

Our final analysis: one certainly needs to acquire a liking for kimchi as it’s so different from most other tastes: salty, sour, fermented, spicy. But, if you find you really cannot like it, don’t worry, because Korean cuisine has so much else to offer.

Vivienne sitting between two new friends.

Vivienne Mackie
vivienne.mackie@gmail.com
Blogs: http://viviennemackie.wordpress.com ;  Web Site: www.web.mac.com/vmackie/iweb/VivienneMackieProfile ;
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Denise Dubé, globalfoodie’s creator and editor, is a food writer who travels – or a traveling foodie who writes. Foods preparation, its origin, smell and presentation are a passion (and obsession) and she enjoys tasting and writing about its cultural nuances. globalfoodie is her baby and food is her muse. It’s also the main reason she needs to lose a few extra pounds. Her work has appeared in Intermezzo, travelgirl, MSNBC.com, National Geographic Traveler and the Boston Globe.  Reach Denise at: Denise@globalfoodie.com.

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Maureen Costello is a Boston-based freelance journalist who loves writing about food and has  sampled appetizers, main courses, beverages and desserts from almost every ethnic group.  Maureen is passionate about food various flavors and forms,  its cultural meaning, tradition and preparation and is thrilled to share her finds with globalfoodie readers.  She can be reached at: Maureen@globalfoodie.com.

Sue Frause is an award winning freelance journalist and photographer. Her words are on images in print and online and include: the Examiner, True/Slant and she is also a About.com spa website contributor. She’s an avid fan of social networking and writes a blog about all things Canadian called,  Closet Canuck. She’s also an on-air contributor to Around the World Travel Radio. Sue and her husband live on an island in Puget Sound where they tend to their chickens, turkeys, garden and their very own field of dreams. She is a popular guest speaker on travel and other earthly delights and frequently appears as an emcee at community charity events. In addition to her frequent travels, Sue enjoys theater, movies, jazz, fine food, heavenly spas and tiptoeing through the tulips … when they are in bloom.  Sue’s website is www.suefrause.com and she is reachable at: sue@suefrause.com.

Richard Frisbie is a food wine and travel writer; a bookseller and publisher of New York centric books; and a newspaper columnist who resides in New York’s Hudson Valley. Online, his articles appear here, on Gather.com, GoNomad.com, travellady.com and the many websites of EDGE Publications. He also writes for regional New York magazines such as Adirondack Life, Life in the Finger Lakes, and Kaatskill Life. Richard can be reached at Richard@globalfoodie.com.

“Have spoon will travel,” is Kori A. Gaff ’s motto. This 31-year-old Maine native is married to a Marine, and has two small children. She manages to make meals everyone will enjoy by using innovation and simplicity. It’s a gift we all need once in a while. Kori also enjoys cooking for the neighborhood, no matter where she’s stationed. Kori can be reached at: Kori@globalfoodie.com.

Emilie  C. Harting’s articles on culture and ecotourism have appeared in a number of major magazines and newspapers, most recently www.forbestraveler.com,  The Philadelphia Inquirer, and MSNBC. When she’s not walking around the streets of various cities or hiking in the countryside, she can often be found in her kitchen.

Kaye Hurst is a Louisiana southern woman who loves all things food-related — it nourishes her soul and her tastebuds. Cooking is her favorite part of life and she is compelled to share her passion for all things sauteed, braised, boiled or basted. In fact Kaye has more palpations over a recipe-laden cookbook than a steamy romance novel. Celebrations at home always involve good food marinated in comfort and seasoned with love. Kaye can be reached at: Kaye@globalfoodie.com.

Shannon Hurst Lane travels the world in search of inspiring destinations and adventurous moments. She enjoys family travel, romantic escapes, girlfriend getaways, and those all important soul-oh trips. She’s an unofficial ambassador for her home state, Louisiana, where the people don’t eat to live, they live to eat. Contact her at: Shannon@globalfoodie.com.

Keith Kellett, our UK correspondent, is an expert on England’s food history and origin. He can be reached at: Keith@globalfoodie.com.

Vivienne Mackie was born in Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) and later became a clinical psychologist. She switched to counseling foreign students and their families and teaching ESL after moving to the United States. Toting a journal and a Brownie camera, her travels began at 8 when she and her grandmother boarded a ship and journed from Rhodesia to England.  Mackie still travels as often as possible — with a modern camera and better journals. Vivienne, fascinated by different languages and cultures, realized that music and food are a big part of any culture.  Tasting food from different countries, taking pictures of the dishes, and collecting recipes, have become an integral part of any trip. She’ll try (almost) anything at least once but found that willingness put severely to the test in China—-where she did draw the line at cat, dog and snake. Vivienne may be reached at:

Susan McKee is an independent scholar and freelance journalist specializing in history, culture and travel. She can be reached at: Susan@globalfoodie.com.

Rosemary Minati spent her early years working as a pre-school teacher in the New York suburbs. Her tools included a handful of plastic scissors, hundreds of kid-proof glue containers and dollops of creativity. After spending her days feeding her students minds she raced home to feed the family. This should-have-been-a-chef foodie can make a delicious and unforgettable meal-at a moment’s notice and knows no cultural bounds when creating a meal. Rosemary will find New York’s best restaurants, whether in the city or hidden in Westchester County. She’ll also be giving us a heads-up on some of the best cookbooks written. She can be reached at: Rosemary@globalfoodie.com.

Deston Nokes is our western correspondent, this Oregon native knows adventure and food. He can be reached at Deston@globalfoodie.com

Stephanie Oswald:

Wine and the good life are the focus of the Sip & Savor column by Denise Reynolds.  Awarded the grand prize by Wines of France for her writing on French wines, Denise holds an Advanced Sommelier certification. Recently, she garnered another award when she was recognized for her unsurpassed knowledge and contribution on food and wine by Indagare, the premier resource for the world’s most discerning travelers.  “Denise” means Goddess of Wine and so it’s fitting that she can be reached at: Goddessofwine@globalfoodie.com.

Ron Stern, the editor-in-chief of JustSayGo.com, an on-line travel-oriented e-zine, is also the travel columnis for the San Diego Community Newspaper Group, Fifty Plus Marketplace News and The Womens’ Newspaper Group. His articles have appeared in national and regional newspapers and magazines including Shape, Cruise, Frequent Flyer, AAA Motorist, Visit Los Cabos Guide, Destinations West, Key Biscayne and La Jolla Today. Gannett, The Bismarck Tribune, The Jamaican Observer and travel trade magazines have also published his work.  Ron’s other contributions have been noted by PBS, Mobil Travel Guides and his  photography has been used extensively by Jordan Tourism Board. He has traveled extensively and is the author of five books. Ron lives with his wife, Nancy in Fort Collins, Colorado. Email him at Ron@globalfoodie.com.

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